What head bolts/stud do i have?

[nonickname]

Hi guys I went to check the torque setting on my head bolts today as I reckon they are loose and none of my sockets will work as it looks like i need a 10mm hex allen key type "thingy majiggy?" The best i can describe them is black round allen key bolts that are about a 10mm. no marking that i can see. From memory i think this car had arp bolts? but not 100 percent on that. Any help would be awesome as then I can determine what the torque setting should be.

Cheers in advance!

 

[4piknup]

yep they are 10mm allen head bolts. either buy a allen key socket for your 1/2 drive torque wrench, or cut a straight section off your 10mm allen key and use a 10mm socket to drive it. id probably use a impact socket as you will prob split a cheap 12point socket.

they are the original bolts.
also, if you are going to replace them with arp, get the ones for the vr4 6 bolt engine as they are thicker than the evo ones. check for compatability first, i think the vr4 are 13mm bolts and the evo are 12mm?

just be aware there are different bolts for 6 and 7 bolt engines and get the right ones

 

[caged]

yep they are 10mm allen head bolts. either buy a allen key socket for your 1/2 drive torque wrench, or cut a straight section off your 10mm allen key and use a 10mm socket to drive it. id probably use a impact socket as you will prob split a cheap 12point socket.

they are the original bolts.
also, if you are going to replace them with arp, get the ones for the vr4 6 bolt engine as they are thicker than the evo ones. check for compatability first, i think the vr4 are 13mm bolts and the evo are 12mm?

just be aware there are different bolts for 6 and 7 bolt engines and get the right ones

vr4 12mm, evo 11mm, gsr 10mm (4g93t)

 

[nonickname]

Thanks guys! Just to clear this up as two different opinions here. Am i buying a 10mm or 12mm allen key? Im keeping the bolts in. I only want to check they are torqued up to what they should be. Im praying they are not as its seeping oil from the head pretty much all round. The factory spec is 90 nm when cold right?

 

[4piknup]

onya caged.
it is a 12mm sized bolt, you need a 10mm allen key to fit the head
like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Westward-Hex-Bit-Socket-1-2-Dr-10mm-1EZN9-NEW-/370558812867?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564706c2c3

 

[DOUGMO]

the studs with the allen key are not meant to be too tight. just finger tight

only the nut is to be torqued to spec

 

[bazeng]

As above, the Allen key holes are the studs. You want to torque the nut on that stud. You'll need a double hex socket set. If you plan to retorque you'll need moli lube or 30w oil also. And you only want to do 1 at a time so you don't break the seal of the head. I followed the std torque pattern also.

 

[caged]

You guys are on miss understanding, he doesn't have studs, he has hex head bolts.

 

[nonickname]

Iam a bit confused. Here is a pic of what im looking at. I can only see a hex bolt? Also here is a pic of the leaking which looks like its from the head gasket area all round. The motor has a cometic head gasket. Am I not able to just torque up the difference? I know to follow the pattern etc but surely its just a case of tightening up the difference? I dont see the need to remove them all. re oil them then start again....

 

[Paul]

Never seen such a stud and i cant see a nut on it either? Looks like an oil gallery plug.

You need to loosen the nuts or bolts before retorquing and lubricate the contact surfaces of the them against the head to ensure they aren't binding giving you incorrect torque readings.

 

[brisvr4]

He has STOCK head bolts guys, don't confuse him if you don't have the correct answers please!
I would just loosen the head bolts one at a time and retorqued them to factory specs. They are prone to stretch if you over torque them.
I have that Allen key at home, if you can't find one let me know and I'll post you mine.

 

[4piknup]

+1 tim.
they are standard bolts. follow the torque sequence and remove 1 bolt, lubricate it and replace it and torque to factory specs.
move to next bolt in sequence. and repeat.

i am sure if you just try to tighten them they will already be tight with stiction. you need to loosen them off reoil and replace them.

i pretty sure that it wont fix your problem, but have a go. maybe give the area a good clean first. i think the oil you see is probably coming from rocker cover and spreading around the gasket flange. in your pic the oil looks pretty old with dirt stuck to it, rather than new fresh oil leak.
my 2c would be on the rocker cover gasket leaking not the head gasket

 

[brisvr4]

I also have a set of arps that you can have if you want them . I can pop them in the port tomorrow if you like.
You can change over to them one at a time but you need to blow the bolt holes out pretty well.
They might help.

 

[nonickname]

Ok thanks guys. all done to 110nm which is the factory spec in the manual. Changes i have made to the car are gone back to factory fpr, Spoke to chris at meek as he knows the car and has worked on it in the past. He wrote a chip to suit for me. While i pulled the rocker cover off I also found a breather hose clamp on the intake side of the rocker cover was loose as it could get. all fitted and fixed. now the car finally holds boost without spiking, idles correctly and is finally a nice car to drive! just got to keep an eye on oil consumption over the next week. It has been using about a litre a week for about 6 weeks now :unsure:

 

[Gianni]

I've heard stock head bolt can't be reused. I have a 2L 6 bolt and need to take head off to inspect valves. My mate said you should stock head bolts once. Arp ect are reusable?

 

[VR-4Squid]

I've heard stock head bolt can't be reused. I have a 2L 6 bolt and need to take head off to inspect valves. My mate said you should stock head bolts once. Arp ect are reusable?

Evo's use torque to yield head studs, which are not re-usable. Vr4 head studs are re-usable (provided they are still within tolerance, measure their length and compare to the numbers in the factory workshop manual).

 

[Gianni]

Oh sweet. I have vr4 ones on my blown block and head. I'm rebuilding a Hyundai 2L. But will use te vr4 ones (unless Hyundai are the same