evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Just finished a forged internal rebuild of my motor. Am after peoples opinions on the best oil to use to run the engine in.
Fire away.... :huh:
Fire away.... :huh:
What Oil To Use For Running An Engine In
- Thread starter evo-gsr
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BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
just a cheap 15/50 is what Ive used.....dump after 30 mins running and change filter. then 500kms repeat...1000 just filter
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
they do ...it is a straight 30 weight. not the best to use in cold weather as it takes ages to get oil pressurecheeks said:
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
So the consensus is to use a mineral oil ?
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
thats a yes from me....
Yes. I always use a 30 grade mineral oil. Start car up check for any leaks etc immediately. Get it up to temp and go for a drive. Get it on load in 2nd gear up hills, give it some good 2nd and 3rd gear pulls to 2/3 redline on a highway and let off the accellerator til it slows down, then give it another bootful up 2nd and 3rd again. Take it down hill in 2nd gear too. You want to put the engine on load pretty quickly. Always stop and pull over, pop bonnet and check for leaks. Keep a close eye on temps too. After 50-100km drop the oil and filter. Then dump 30 grade in again and empty at 500km. Then put your normal oil in. Theres varying ways people do the run in process, but youll find most will use 30 grade mineral oil for the first 50-100km as a standard. Oh and also avoid leaving it sitting at idle for too long after first startup. Basically once youre ok you have no leaks jump in and go.
I ran mine for 20 mins up the road, dumped the oil and replaced, then went and made 390kw@wheels 
khubner1
Moderator
Ran mine In on 0w40 500 change 15w after that changed again 500 later and at the 1k mark ran as normal. Haven't had any engine bearing related issues
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Yep thats exactly what I got yesterday...its 15-40 and I got 10 litres for $50....which I was pretty happy with.
Jamo just make sure you do at least the first 100km in varied loads on the engine (not taking it for a spin on a highway at 110kmh for 30 minutes). The varying loads is what the engine needs.
Don't pump a lot of boost in it either, better to keep the boost down for the wear in process and don't take it over 2/3 the redline.
Stereo off. Watch he water temp and oil temp and pressure, listen for noises and monitor for leaks.
I still recommend 30 monograde oil, but each to their own.
Don't pump a lot of boost in it either, better to keep the boost down for the wear in process and don't take it over 2/3 the redline.
Stereo off. Watch he water temp and oil temp and pressure, listen for noises and monitor for leaks.
I still recommend 30 monograde oil, but each to their own.
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Rob...what sort of boost levels would you recommend?
Well we need some boost to help create pressure and expand the rings and help them to bed in. But because the engine is fresh and tolerances are tight its going to be running quite hot. In that instance I wouldn't give it more than a safe 1 bar of boost during the wear in process mate.
The reason why you should stay away from synthetic oils for the run-in process is because you want to create friction in the cylinder bores to wear the rings in. The nature of mineral oil means it degrades quicker than synthetic oil too. During the wear in process this is a good thing because you're going to change the mineral oil at 50-100km anyway. The last thing you want to be doing (in my opinion anyway) is to run some you beaut synthetic oil which protects your cylinder bores and reduces friction during the wear in process. Use synthetic later once its worn in.
The reason why you should stay away from synthetic oils for the run-in process is because you want to create friction in the cylinder bores to wear the rings in. The nature of mineral oil means it degrades quicker than synthetic oil too. During the wear in process this is a good thing because you're going to change the mineral oil at 50-100km anyway. The last thing you want to be doing (in my opinion anyway) is to run some you beaut synthetic oil which protects your cylinder bores and reduces friction during the wear in process. Use synthetic later once its worn in.
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Thanks mate...I have just swapped the 1 bar wastegate spring to a 0.8 bar spring to be on the safe side. My engine builder said the exact same thing you have regarding mineral oil too.
I have a good mountain road nearby which has lots of uphill and downhill sections which I plan on using to run it in using various loads and speeds in different gears. Just gotta pull my finger out and get the last few little fiddly things done in the next few afternoons and hopefully fire it up over the weekend sometime if all goes to plan.
I have a good mountain road nearby which has lots of uphill and downhill sections which I plan on using to run it in using various loads and speeds in different gears. Just gotta pull my finger out and get the last few little fiddly things done in the next few afternoons and hopefully fire it up over the weekend sometime if all goes to plan.
SKMsport
Well-Known Member
Yep Penrite running in oil is good stuff. Just used it for running in my new engine.
Good shit :thumbsup:
This is how Ive been doing the running in process for every build so I hope it helps you in some way. Pretty much when you get it started, the engine will burn off a lot of grease and oil and fluids that have been put on it from your hands during the build/ installation. It will also heat up your engine block enamel paint and surface corrosion on the exhaust. You will see some smoke and experience a burning smell at first but this will disappear after the engine heats up and you take it for its first run. Let the engine idle and quickly do a health check on all your hoses and fluids as the engine temp starts to rise. Dont forget to check the welsh plugs in the engine block for leaks too.
Something I always do is also put a strong hard drive magnet or similar neodymium / rare earth magnet on the oil filter which will help catch and keep the fine metal shavings from the wear in process inside the filter. Try to get it out on the street before it reaches normal operating temperature if possible, if not avoid revving the engine at idle. When all is clear just get out and drive it. Only give it 2nd and 3rd gear pulls to 2/3 redline and then let the car decelerate by itself. do this several times under various loads. If you can go up a long hill in 4th under load and at speed do that too.
It always pays to have somebody follow in a car behind you with a toolbox and bottles of water just in case a hose lets go or something whilst you're driving in the mountains for the first time. Keep an eye on the gauges. When you get to your destination, hop out whilst the engine is still running and do a quick check under the engine to look for leaks. If all is good drive it back home and pull up in your driveway, check for leaks again, then shut it off and let it cool down. Go grab yourself a beer and sit back whilst the engine cools down. I would then dump the oil and filter out of it and put fresh 30 grade mineral oil in it again. Put about 500km on it with mineral oil before you dump it and go to a fully synthetic oil. That first 500km is also a good wear in process for a clutch and brake pads too.
This is how Ive been doing the running in process for every build so I hope it helps you in some way. Pretty much when you get it started, the engine will burn off a lot of grease and oil and fluids that have been put on it from your hands during the build/ installation. It will also heat up your engine block enamel paint and surface corrosion on the exhaust. You will see some smoke and experience a burning smell at first but this will disappear after the engine heats up and you take it for its first run. Let the engine idle and quickly do a health check on all your hoses and fluids as the engine temp starts to rise. Dont forget to check the welsh plugs in the engine block for leaks too.
Something I always do is also put a strong hard drive magnet or similar neodymium / rare earth magnet on the oil filter which will help catch and keep the fine metal shavings from the wear in process inside the filter. Try to get it out on the street before it reaches normal operating temperature if possible, if not avoid revving the engine at idle. When all is clear just get out and drive it. Only give it 2nd and 3rd gear pulls to 2/3 redline and then let the car decelerate by itself. do this several times under various loads. If you can go up a long hill in 4th under load and at speed do that too.
It always pays to have somebody follow in a car behind you with a toolbox and bottles of water just in case a hose lets go or something whilst you're driving in the mountains for the first time. Keep an eye on the gauges. When you get to your destination, hop out whilst the engine is still running and do a quick check under the engine to look for leaks. If all is good drive it back home and pull up in your driveway, check for leaks again, then shut it off and let it cool down. Go grab yourself a beer and sit back whilst the engine cools down. I would then dump the oil and filter out of it and put fresh 30 grade mineral oil in it again. Put about 500km on it with mineral oil before you dump it and go to a fully synthetic oil. That first 500km is also a good wear in process for a clutch and brake pads too.
4piknup
master of none
Imo after the first oil change, if you can get more load on the engine it is a good thing. Like a boat trailer. Make the motor stretch a bit. Get them rings pushed out and some load on the rods. Makes the rings bed all the way to the top of the bores.
In the same reason that when jonny buys pops good ole wagon. It ends up blowing smoke after jonny giv it a hiding for a week. The engine stretches enough for the rings to smash themselves on the step worn into the bore.
In the same reason that when jonny buys pops good ole wagon. It ends up blowing smoke after jonny giv it a hiding for a week. The engine stretches enough for the rings to smash themselves on the step worn into the bore.
