What Turbo

4GTuner

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depends which way you look at it,

i know your example of cams probably isnt the best because all 272 cams will have an advertised duration of 272 degrees, lift, lobe centres and duration at 1mm lift will be different but will all be readily available.

i.e. you will find most people here will quote their cams as "BC 272" "HKS 272" "Kelford 272", from that its easy to work out the spec's.


you are dead right about "there's nothing against saying the turbo has been hi-flowed" it just doesnt help people too understand who are interested in learning.

we are all here to learn and share right?
 
Yeah, fair comment.
I do get where you're coming from, I suppose it simply the famous forum face, that you can't really put an emotion to a set of words. ;)
 
No....that's not the correct description, yours would be a very specific description of a tdo5 high flow application.

I was just throwing the possibility out to po55um5 as to weather a high-flowed standard turbo might suit his needs. Granted, i could have worded it better by saying:

"hey po55um5, any chance you've thought of high-flowing the tdo5 with an extrude honed compressor cover with the inducer milled out for a TD06 25g, 360 thrustbearing conversion on a OEM td05h core and a 15 deg back cut on the turbine and a ported exhaust housing?"

But, i'm not usually that specific in forums unless it's essential, sorry champ...that's just my casual style.

Oh, and don't let the measly 30 odd post count fool ya, i assure you I'm not all that dim witted lol

Peace!
 
something_wild said:
No....that's not the correct description, yours would be a very specific description of a tdo5 high flow application.
Click to expand...

so which is the correct description, the specific or vague one?

or which description is more helpful for the OP and subsequent people who will search and find this thread in the furture?

something_wild said:
i'm not usually that specific in forums unless it's essential, sorry champ...that's just my casual style.
Click to expand...

casuals fine, but this is a technical thread dealing with turbo selection, there is a lot of conjecture regarding this topic on almost all forums and we like being helpful here by posting technically relevant information. this is whats great about this place.


something_wild said:
Oh, and don't let the measly 30 odd post count fool ya, i assure you I'm not all that dim witted lol
Click to expand...


post counts dont mean bugger all, i still fuck up all the time.
 
Id have to agree the term hi flow is a bad term.
For example the 'high flow exhaust manifold" means nothing. Saying a ported manifold does, so when people are researching they can look into how to port out turbos, manifolds and why and the ideas of flow, for example why we port 16g's wastgate passage to prevent boost creep.
WE really need to get away from this term of hi flowing.

Id much rather have a discussion on how to port turbos, o2 housings and manifolds and show pics and share info than debate this term of hi flowing like on this thread and the other thread going on atm.

Otherwise it breeds miss information and this forum, where people actually understand whats in their car, will loose its knowledge base goes downhill fast.

If you turbo has had a 20g wheel, put into it with the machined compressor housing, say that, because when people are reading up on turbos and getting their head around the characteristics of a combination of spool and power potential, they can sift through the info and understand what was done and understand where the opinion formed about it comes from, then it means somthing.
if we use hi flow the info mean nothing. Even saying a 20g mean nothing. You have to describe the exhaust side, td05, clipped? td06, td06sl2, tdo6h ect ect. ported? stock wastgate flap, 34mm flap, what pressure wastegate......

I read though a lot of US forums reading up on turbos an sifting through the varied opinions on many different turbo combination and comparisons people have drawn after modifications to their turbo or a whole swap to get an idea on the characteristics of what combination i want to run. without specific information, we all loose.
 
Ok guys, i'll take it on board and scrap "high flow" from my vocab on these forums.

I'll admit that i'm far from a turbo expert so a little deeper technical description of turbo combination's could be of some use, and i'm sure that goes for many people on here :thumbsup:

Oh, can i call ya "high-flow" for a nick name though from now on to4garret?? Hehehe, jokin' dude :lol:
 
LOL at craig! (though don't call him that haha) yeah i was trying to be diplomatic, really i think its a stupid f'n term and its reserved for people who have fully sick red wiper blades to match their fully sick hi flow turbo they blindly paid someone to make, when they only ported it or something haha.

Glade you've seen the method in the madness:lol: It helps people research different combination's!
 
so anyway, from all this, the better option is a 16g?
was contemplating a 20g, but obviously stock tune will not be suffice upon any big change i were to make...
 
20g will work fine on the stock ecu, you just wont be able to "wind" it up without changing injectors.

a 20g is a very nice street turbo, dunno how good it would be for off road stuff though as it probably wouldnt be awake till around 3500rpm, which if you needed some tq in 1st could be a problem.

speaking of which, how loose is your converter?
 
drivelines fine, just needs the gearbox toughened up.
rear diff, front diff are fine.

you dont want boost when hill climbing, pin you off the cliff if it did.
the engine power alone has been suffice for what i do.
kept the gauge below 0,

was planning on keeping the boost at factory setting, but simply shift the boost point up the far end of the scale.
 
i was meaning more about how far you can stall it when stopped.

for instance my RVR will stall till 3200rpm, but my verada wont go up past 2000rpm. with the looser converter on the RVR i find its very easy to sit at 2500/3000rpm everywhere where as the verada is lazy. seems like they did this on purpose to maximize the tq for the smaller 2.0L with a smaller turbo.

problem with the converter that loose is that you almost always wind up on boost, a 20g would be good because its "boost threshold" would be just above "my" stock convertor thus increasing economy at the expense of the "zippyness" the stock would provide.

Miodrag could add his thoughts seen as he has a 20g.

i was thinking about still keeping the boost available on the converter (2600/3000rpm) mainly for sand. because thats pretty much all we have in WA.
 
Stock Auto should handle a stall upto 3000rpm... however if you modify the torque converter (talk to VR401 on this) you can get to 3800rpm (like in mine) safely however he has done a mod to his to handle a 5000rpm stall I believe.

Also, I would suggest not stalling a SSG Auto as it doesn't have the secondary cooler like in the HSG's.
 
my SSG has two coolers standard, it has the one built into the radiator then also a seperate air cooler up the front, seems to go, gearbox -> air cooler -> radiator or mayber the otherway around.
 
I brought a wrx comp that was milled for a 20g wheel from Mark gtpumps.
I cut a new half hole in the comp at 90deg from the std wrx hole to lock the
comp to face downwards = RVR 16g/20g turbo.
I made a bracket to bolt a Garret 25psi actuator onto it. No bc, just 25psi ftw
No it's not a high flowed turbo ;]
Cheers !
 

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