What's the best clutch for launching

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Hey guys, just wondering the the best clutch is for launching. I've got a forged 1.8 gsr. I used to have a 5 Puk clutch and that always launched well but now with just a heavy duty it doesn't want to get off the line aswel. Should I go back to the 5 Puk or is there something better, cheers
 
Hey guys, just wondering the the best clutch is for launching. I've got a forged 1.8 gsr. I used to have a 5 Puk clutch and that always launched well but now with just a heavy duty it doesn't want to get off the line aswel. Should I go back to the 5 Puk or is there something better, cheers
how much power are you making or whats you basic mods. What do you define as a launch? a 6k rpm clutch dump?

I recon there is 2 ways you can go, something that loves the abuse but is harsh in engagement, and if its too harsh in the initial take up it may snap drive line parts. So a sprung center 6 or 5 puck is the way to go, you want a good quality puck clutch, the cheap ones seem to be harsher and snap things.

Or the other way to balance not having a harsh initial bite is a friction plate with less friction (than a puck) but using a heavier pressure plate so it grabs, like using a Kevlar disk.
I went this way and do 20psi antilag launches in a big fat vr4 and it loves it. I recon another 50hp and it'd cook though. Its a balancing act. I haven't yet snapped my 3 bolt drive shaft's like i seems i should have, so i put it down to the the clutch not shocking the drive line.

I have 2 spare sets of rear drive shafts and a spare 6 puck friction plate for the clutch sitting there ready, and haven't needed it, yet lol.
 
My vote is: Exceedy Cushioned Ceramic Clutch, loves hard launching

I inspected mine after 40plus launches over 2 years and was only warn down 20%, its still going strong! Yes 20%, I measured it with Verniers and compared the thickness against a brand new one.

I will be using another one when its time to replace it.
 
Yeah I was dumping it at 6k and always got off the line really quick so would like the clutch to be able to handle it. The car will be putting out about 180kw at the treads
 
twin plate direct clutch..

lol

Honestly, it really depends on what you want to achieve.
But for launching, if the button clutch worked for you, go the button again!
 
You can launch on exedy heavy duty's! Trust me! :lol:

You can have heaps of different clutch combos- but if your launching technique isn't up to scratch, then you will fry any clutch.
 
You can launch on exedy heavy duty's! Trust me! :lol:

You can have heaps of different clutch combos- but if your launching technique isn't up to scratch, then you will fry any clutch.
so true i had raced my car more times then i can even remember numerous 12 sec time slips 100 thou kms on the clock before it started slipping turned out to be the standard clutch too
 
Always choose a clutch to suit the torque output and intended use of the car. In your case with 180kw atw I assume its a daily driver with a few spirited runs, therefore you dont need anything too agressive or expensive. You wont need a custom mix of exotic friction materials, unsprung centre, heavy clamping force, or a chattery or noisy single or multi plate system ;)
Get something that maintains good everyday drivability with a sprung centre, is slippable with 5 or 6 pads and relatively easy on the left thigh. Sometimes you have no alternative but to get something that will take some pushing but thats life.
Straight off the shelf for you is an Exedy h/duty cushion or brass cushion button clutch. They would be the choice time and time again for up to 250kw atw street cars without costing you the earth ;) A few of my friends have these installed in their cars and they havent had any issues with them.

When I got my clutch I went for something different to try and sourced a Spec Stage3+ from the U.S. I'm very happy with it. Its a cera-metallic full face sprung centre with 3000lbs clamping force with plenty of bite to hold 500ft/lbs of torque. Even though its got more bite and is more street friendly than an ACT 2600 clutch, the pedal feel is a tad more than a stock clutch and VERY easy on the left thigh that even the Mrs will be happy to drive it. Going from friends h/duty clutches to mine feels like I've got no clutch at all and only pushing on a spring :lol: The combination of the Spec and a Fidanza flywheel does increase driveline noise with the usual 'jssssh jsssssssh jsssssssh' noise when letting out the clutch to decellerate but it was my choice for an all-rounder clutch after doing some research. At the moment its launched hardest at 7,000rpm with an estimated 250kw atw street tune and it lit up all 4 Kumho Ecsta tyres in 1st and 2nd gear without slipping. The true test will come after a full dyno tune where it'll see 300kw+ atw B)
 
The spec 3+ was my other choice it sounds like a good clutch.
I went a clutchnet 2x 2500lb) pressure plate with the sprung kevlar disk. I belt on it often, the cars making at least the 180wkw you after, prob closer to 220 at a guess in a heavy vr4. Has a great feel launching it.
 
I've always used Exedy Sports Organic
It's not the most agressive bite but I'd prefer to replace a clutch disk than a whole gear box or drive shafts.
I launch with a bit of clutch slip anyway so it's not so bad
 
Excedy Cushion Button Clutch, you wont be dissapointed :)

Ive been running 1 of these for almost 2 years now
 
Just found this on the Exedy website;

IMPORTANT: With any ceramic button clutch system, there will be some compromise of start-up driveability when compared to a standard clutch (chatter on light throttle, low RPM start-up) in addition to an increase in cabin/transmission noise. This characteristic is generally deemed acceptable in modified performance cars. Drivers of vehicles fitted with cerametallic clutches on the street should be warned not to ride the clutch or try to reduce the chatter as this will greatly increase the wear rate. The above information should be used as a guide only, please consult your Exedy distributor if further advice is required.

In other words if you drive it everyday then stick to an organic type. If it's soley a track car go for a ceramic or button type.
 
Just found this on the Exedy website;

IMPORTANT: With any ceramic button clutch system, there will be some compromise of start-up driveability when compared to a standard clutch (chatter on light throttle, low RPM start-up) in addition to an increase in cabin/transmission noise. This characteristic is generally deemed acceptable in modified performance cars. Drivers of vehicles fitted with cerametallic clutches on the street should be warned not to ride the clutch or try to reduce the chatter as this will greatly increase the wear rate. The above information should be used as a guide only, please consult your Exedy distributor if further advice is required.

In other words if you drive it everyday then stick to an organic type. If it's soley a track car go for a ceramic or button type.
Thats a bit of a disclaimer. If you want a good clutch its not going to drive like a stock one.
If your going organic i recon you better off with kevlar coz it lasts a lot longer.
 

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