Whats Wrong With My CC GSR Clutch/fluid issues

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Rps13

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
13
Location
Melbourne
I have a 96 CC Lancer GSR.

One night I was driving and I felt a cruntch in the clutch peddel and kept on driving and later the car was and it was stuck in gear when I was able to get it into gear and I found it hard to put into gear.

The car will go into gear when the car is switched off.

When I got home I checked the fluid and it was all gone.

I have changed the Master Cylender twice now and bled it several times and this supplyed a temporary fix.

I noticed little air bubbles when I bleed it and I bleed it untill there is no more air bubbles and then it drives ok for about 5 mins before it going to sh*t and not engaging gears again.

I then moved on to the slave cylender and replaced that and I was able to get the car working for about a day or 2 and then the problem came back.

The brand new slave I had installed a week ago was leaking oil from the black rubber tip where the rod is.
The more I pumped the more it would jett out untill the peddle was flat on the ground and I had no more fluid.

Upon inspection the rod from the Slave was stuck in the fork but not bent it too some force and plyers to get it unstuck from the fork.

The slave its self had damaged rubber on one side.

One last note every time the clutch plays up as I engage it, it will crunch.

thanks in advance I am suspecting a bent fork possibly putting the slave push rodon an angle thus messing up the rubber washers and stuff causing air to get into the slave?
 
you can buy or make longer rods....try that as it sounds like an overly worn fork where the rod contacts. this will allow the piston in the slave to travel almost right out. that allows a leak as the piston cocks sideways
 
Good idea :)

Hey beau I'm pretty sure I have some rod at home I can use to make a larger push rod :) let me check
 
If your going to pull the box do the pivot ball spacer mod just undo te ball and put about 5mm of washer behind it sets the fork where it needs to be
 
A longer rod will work for a while.....BUT

to correct the problem requires the gear box removed and a new pivot ball/ clutch fork be installed.

If the flywheel has been machined you will also need to space out the pivot ball. The optimum point of contact when viewed from the front is for the thrust bearing to engage the fingers of the pressure plate slightly off towards the slave cylinder side of the half way point through the length of travel of the aperture of the clutch fork

get this right and your wont have issues of the fluid disappearing unless you have other leaks
 

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