Wheel spacers

[D3bb4]

Sorry if it's been covered before guys, but there doesnt seem to be any black/white answers avaliable.

Has anybody installed 3000gt front brakes? If so, running spacers?

Otherwise: is anybody else running wheel spacers? bolt on or floating type? and is it best to run them front and rear rather than just front?

Help would be appreciated.

Cheers.

 

[D3bb4]

Nobody?

 

[JAP63]

I ran 6mm floating spacers on the back of my VR4.
I wouldnt reccomend it,but its do-able.
Front to rear wont be effected.
either end or both is fine.

The problem is that the floating spacer inner will not match the hubcentric diameter...hence you need a ring made up to accomodate for the difference

And...

If your car is making big power theres a chances the studs (if theyre touching the spacer) may break/snap
Its rare, but possible, the torque through the wheel can load up and place stress on the spacer...if the spacer is up against the stud,it can put force on it, and break it.
As i said rare but possible

Do you want bolt on ones made, i may know someone to steer you in the right direction...made to any size and dimension

 

[GSR70Y]

I can understand that the floating type spacers are not reccommended. With saying that Ive had spacers on my car for years without any issues, But what about the Bolt on type? The only problem I can think of is the cheap wheelstuds.

 

[D3bb4]

I didnt realise that about the floating type. thanks for that info

Just jap has bolt on ones, starting at 15mm to 25mm.

I'm considering the 15mm ones, as i'm only doing it to clear a brake upgrade; but i don't want to be doing anythying risky/stupid.

 

[rob323]

I can understand that the floating type spacers are not reccommended. With saying that Ive had spacers on my car for years without any issues, But what about the Bolt on type? The only problem I can think of is the cheap wheelstuds.

I would be more concerned about the fact that the wheel studs are only going into aluminium. Even 6061 alloy (which is a structural alloy) is nowhere near as strong as mild steel.

 

[JAP63]

I would be more concerned about the fact that the wheel studs are only going into aluminium. Even 6061 alloy (which is a structural alloy) is nowhere near as strong as mild steel.

Im with you on that.
Im not at will (liability wise) to say what ive seen at work and in what scenarios, but i have seen billet aluminium (welds also) fail , and it wasnt under any shear load, it was all rotational, which was really suprising.

I think the fact that it is billet is a plus, it will be strong and if its bolted to the hub with rated bolts, maybe 8.8's there shouldnt be a problem.The wheel itself would stop the dissasembly of the spacer from the hub, and the original studs could have a nylock/ locknut or loctite etc..on them to be extra safe.

It'd be something id montior though, for cracks, especially around the drilled sections.I havent heard of any horror stories,just the fact that the spacer becomes a drive element means its going to be under load, and big power will mean bigger loads.

 

[D3bb4]

ok... so is there any other way to get around this issue? other than replacing the wheels to something with another offset?

longer bolts and welding spacers onto the hub?

 

[Entaran]

A longer bolt has a lower failure point. Shear loads are increased as the axis of rotation is further.

Your best bet would be a different set of rims.

 

[D3bb4]

Wonder if i could get a bolt with a thicker base - would overcome the sheer force issue towards the base... I've asked just jap for more info on their spacers... has been about a week now and no response... might give them a call instead.

It seems that the studs themselves are not meant to have any sheer force on them, as the rotation is purely on the hub... the studs are only meant to have a normal force from the hub to the wheel, to hold the wheel on... rotation should only be through the hub.

 

[JAP63]

A longer bolt has a lower failure point. Shear loads are increased as the axis of rotation is further.

Yes..torsional loads would be higher.

Wonder if i could get a bolt with a thicker base - would overcome the sheer force issue towards the base...

It seems that the studs themselves are not meant to have any sheer force on them, as the rotation is purely on the hub... the studs are only meant to have a normal force from the hub to the wheel, to hold the wheel on... rotation should only be through the hub.

Whats happening down there is when a wheelnut pulls up, the taper on the wheel nut locks on the taper of the wheel, so you end up with a positive lock of nut to wheel, and the stud is centred with no real radial load on it, but it will be under tensile load..which occurs when youve done it up tight..when you tighten the nut..its trying to stretch the stud.
Most of the force is tensile,along the length of the stud

I wouldnt be to worried about them shearing..as theyre not that much longer when you take into account its not coming from the original hub, just through the spacer.
And a bolt with a thicker base probably wouldnt help much either.

Honestly i wouldnt be too concerned, i think the bolt on type will handle it ok, as long as all the studs/bolts are rated, tight and keep an eye on it.

If your car was making mass power and used as race/drift then maybe it'd be an issue, but just about every drift car ive seen has spacers anyway..and usualyy with wider and heavier wheels hanging off them.

 

[rob323]

but just about every drift car ive seen has spacers anyway..and usualyy with wider and heavier wheels hanging off them.

Even rally cars see more sideways g forces than a drift car

 

[JAP63]

but just about every drift car ive seen has spacers anyway..and usualyy with wider and heavier wheels hanging off them.

Even rally cars see more sideways g forces than a drift car

Correction...YOUR car probably sees more sideways G force

Interested in a set of tailshaft bearings?

Ill GIVE you a set...
Come and get em.lol.

 

[brisvr4]

Interested in a set of tailshaft bearings?

Ill GIVE you a set...
Come and get em.lol.

Give them to me Jamie, I really really need a set!
Besides, Rob would probably only hurt himself trying to install them anyways :lol:

 

[rob323]

Jamie, you still got a bonnet as well?

Tim, use more duct tape

 

[brisvr4]

Rob you haven't seen my carrier bearings! More slop than a middle-aged hooker!

 

[rob323]

Oh, I see you've met my Ex :twisted:

 

[GSR70Y]

Why does loose like wizards sleave come to mind?

Back to the topic..

Sorry If i sound nieve but surely if they're used in high power, high stressed drift car's without issue's it'll be ok for my car.. right?

I've been scouring the nissan forums digging up dirt on them but can't find anything substantial.

 

[JAP63]

Why does loose like wizards sleave come to mind?

Back to the topic..

Sorry If i sound nieve but surely if they're used in high power, high stressed drift car's without issue's it'll be ok for my car.. right?

I've been scouring the nissan forums digging up dirt on them but can't find anything substantial.

Like i was saying..i think theyd work without catastrophic failure.

 

[JAP63]

Oh, I see you've met my Ex :twisted:

Rob you haven't seen my carrier bearings! More slop than a middle-aged hooker!

Theyve been sitting here forever..i should start public bidding on them... :lol: