Which ECU?

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Sol_86

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Long story short, recently had some work done to my car. Mechanic recommended I got aftermarket ECU on my E3 engine. Currently got a 16g, 3 inch exhaust, Sloboy ex manifold, FMIC, bosch fuel pump and Evo 8 injectors. Very near future mods will be 272 cams, adjustable cam gears and some head work. After driving it around town the last week decided I probably won't go anything bigger than a 20g on it. Will wind up the boost a bit soon - got an HKS EVC (dual stage) so will robs run 12/18. Worst case scenario down the track would be a forged stroker kit, nothing more though as in a 1030kg front wheel drive I just wouldnt get traction.

Currently running Meek chipped E3 ecu, can be data logged etc. The work I just had done was not by Meek, had to get it done locally due to circumstances and it was the new mechanic who recommended changing to full aftermarket.

My question is, is it really necessary for me to go aftermarket with my current plans. What ECU's are people running on their E3's engines and with what mods? I was hoping to avoid having to go full aftermarket, im not the biggest fan of the compications they bing after having a microtech LT10s which was a piece of sh*t (microtech's customer service was equally terrible!!!).

Is there really that much to be gained out of a full aftermarket ECU over my current? What brands are the easiest to use and best quality?

Any help appreciated.
 
Autronic or Motec!!

But honestly, what does your tuner prefer?

No point getting the Motec if your tuner can only do Power FC....
 
I run a ViPEC and love it, but it would be overkill for a street car.... so I'd suggest the ECMlink as the way to go.

Thats why id run the Link G4, alot cheaper with the great NZ exchange rate and is just a slightly tamed down version of the vipec. Iv done hand full of link g4's now and best $$ value ecu IMO.

Do people still buy microtech?
 
+1 ECMlink. I cant think of any reason why you would need an aftermarket ECU over the ECMLink in your application...
 
Got a microtech in my Gsr and had one in my last III, good enough to support over 300kw in both cars. I personally don't see a problem with microtech.
However if I was to buy another ecu I would buy haltech
 
I've run a microtech LT-10s in the past, and will be running one again probably later this year. I've never had any problems with them, just gotta get your tuner to spend a bit of time with the cold start and cruise :)

Having said that, I've bought the computer with suitable loom both times for $500..... Given a bigger budget, this time I would have definately gone for Vipec - from what I can tell great features and more importantly my tuner loves them, and knows/likes tuning them :D

the new haltechs also seem pretty good, I have helped setup 2 on RB30's and they worked well with loads of features.
 
Haltech E8 ECU here with a Haltech EI-III plug and play patch loom that plugs into the factory yellow ECU plugs to the Haltech ECU. It can utilise all the factory sensors etc. Easy to setup. Lots of options. Aussie owned. Support forum. Many tuners can tune it. Also has optional extras like boost control, individual coils, idle control, you name it. It can also be easily upgraded to the new Platinum series as they use the same plugs. Plus you can always unplug the patch loom and revert back to factory ECU with not much work depending on what add-ons you've done.
So... you have plenty of options provided above.... but seriously, let the man who is going to tune your car choose the ECU he knows and works with best ;)
 
I'm in the same position.
I was originally going with Haltech but now have decided to go with Vi-Pec. I've found a reputable tuner who knows them well so it makes sense.
I was quoted 3k fitted and tuned just to give you anidea on price
 
The plug and play of the haltech is incredibly appealing! How do the boost controllers go that are built into these, are they on par with something like an eboost2?

Not sure of the numbers off the top of my head, will need to have a look tonight. Havent logged anything yet but was told by the previous owner that it was plug and play with a PDA.
 
Haltech like most other aftermarket ECU's can control boost two ways. Via the ECU and setting it by laptop or hand controller; or by installing an add-on trim module with a turn knob that adjusts the boost at your fingertips.
In this day and age ECU manufacturers still arent really interested in manufacturing a small affordable digital screen with something like a trim module knob or up/down button interface that shows you the boost values you're selecting (although if you knew what your boost levels were, how often would you change them?). It comes down to personal preference and visual appeal.

Like many others with aftermarket ECU's, the majority opt for a standalone electronic boost controller like an Eboost2, AVCR, HKS EBC, Blitz etc for the sheer fact of having something physically in front of you providing clear visual feedback when you adjust the values. Some aftermarket EBC's go beyond just controlling boost and can actually provide feedback on rpm's, speed, duty cycle etc. Some also can control duty cycle, boost per gear/rpm, datalog, etc.

Which of the following would you prefer?
a) turning a bland black knob on the dashboard that is only dedicated to controlling boost? You will need a seperate boost gauge to see what boost you are running; OR
B) having a bling digital display/gauge with push buttons to adjust boost and see exactly what boost levels you have dialled in? plus have the capability of monitoring and adjusting other parameters like duty cycle, boost per gear/rpm etc. PLUS actually can be used as a BOOST GAUGE so you dont have to have a seperate boost gauge.
 
Do it the Autronic way:

Define your details in the software:

Wastegate spring pressure
Desired boost

Give it a run on the dyno/street
Input the difference from actual to what was defined into a table (boost offset) via logging.

Then once that is all set, you can simply put in the table what boost you want and the ecu will take it there.
You can also make it gear/speed/temp/air temp dependant.

It is fully closed loop boost control with the benifit of having advance boost cut features. You can make it soft cut of hard cut. Hard cut is like what most other ECU's offer which basically once you hit the boost cut value, it cuts ignition / fuel. With the Autronic, you can define a time you can overboost for (to permit spiking which is sometimes inavoidable). So you can set your boost cut at 30psi, it might spike to 33psi for 2 seconds. In this case, you can tell the Autronic to allow overboost to happen for 3 seconds before it cuts to allow for the spike.

You also have the option to upgrade to knock control which will give you more power. See more below.
I've seen 20 kw gain at the wheels on the dyno with knock control. It doesn't just retard timing, it retards only the knocking cylinder and allows for the other non knocking cylinders to continue to make power.
Knock board info


Check out mrm-racing.se for more info.

You are in Japan right?
Local dealer:

Japan
R.P.M Akihiko Tosaka
7-8-26 ougimachi miyaginoku sendai miyagi Tel: 022-259-0740
Japan Fax: 022-259-0740
Email: [email protected]


I'm telling you this because I genuinely think the Autronic is an awesome product.
Apart from Autronic I'd go MOTEC but you have to spend double if not triple to get a simlar product due to logging etc etc.

Motec is awesome also.
They do now offer an budget product called MOTEC M84
MOTEC M84

How the above compare with VIPEC / HALTECHI can't tell you because I haven't had first hand experience with the new VIPEC or HALTECH. But I've been told that they are also great ECU's.

Just keep your mind open and look at features and what others have done with the ECU's.

Specs are one thing but actually getting them to work the way you want is the key.

Also keep in mind, tuning the ECU is not the hard part. Anybody can plot numbers into the thing. They key to a good ECU in my opinion is getting the features to work for you.

Example:

With the Autronic, I can program my fuel mixtures to work based on my air temp values.
Ie, COLD (-40 degrees C) I can add 20% more fuel and as it heats up (0 deg C) I can get it back to 0% trim.
With this I can also do the same with timing.

Now for the good part, I can also link an anolgue input (0-5v) to adjust mixtures at the same time. So in this case, you can buy yourself an E85 sensor which reads from 0-5v and wire it into the Autronic. Depending on the value (percentage of ethanol) it can richen or lean out the mixture automatically. So you don't have to manually switch maps, it will automatically switch depending on the sensor value.

Do a bit of reading into GPC and you will get a good understanding of it.

I believe MOTEC have a similar feature also. I'm unsure if VIPEC and HALTECH do this. My guess is VIPEC could possibly have it because Ray Hall used to sell Autronics before he went and started VIPEC.

The stress of having all these options!!!!

Keep in mind, ECM link has also done well!
There are some very very very fast cars out there with ECM link!
 
Now for the good part, I can also link an anolgue input (0-5v) to adjust mixtures at the same time. So in this case, you can buy yourself an E85 sensor which reads from 0-5v and wire it into the Autronic. Depending on the value (percentage of ethanol) it can richen or lean out the mixture automatically. So you don't have to manually switch maps, it will automatically switch depending on the sensor value.
now that is cool! :eek:
 

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