Hi there....Ok so as you can understand...Im new to the 4G scene...and mitsubishi....Ive defected from the Nissan Skyline scene and when it comes to GSR I need a little help... I have recently acquired a new ride...a 1990 GSR Galant, 2L twin cam 16v 5speed manual in mint condition....Its now due for an OIL Change...so Which oil is best??? If theres a better oil to get than standard what are my options? and as for oil filter Ryco or something better??? any advice??? or things to watch out for when doing and oil change on this little car....??
which oil/filter???
- Thread starter GSR Hulk
- Start date
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Can of worms this one, so many different opinions on oil.
For a galant gsr. Is it tired? If not...
I recon a decent semi synthetic oil 10W40 or 15W40. Take your pick, Castrol Magnatec. Helix hx7. Nulon in the orange bottles... I run Penrite HPR10 10W50 in the turbo motor coz it gets the oil hotter, could still use it if shes a bit tired and eats a bit of oil. No oil squirters for the pistons in an NA so less prone to burn oil.
Ryco filters are good, id go with that. Mitsi ones can be a decent price to get according to some on the forums. Ryco is mean to be a lot better then Valvoline ones ect.
THANK YOU! yep the motor thats in car is tight as...and doesnt burn any oil at all. i bought it 4mnths ago from a 57yr old hair dresser.. i have full history on the car and ALL receipts since new! it never misses a beat and runs like a charm....so naturally i drive a little harder than the old lady so i wanna make sure engine stays tight and wanna put a good oil in it..
4piknup
master of none
pull the head and deridge the block (the ridge at the top of the bores in each cylinder) before you smash the top compression rings on the ridge.
this is because you drive it harder than the previous owner your rods will heat and stretch further and the pistons travel further up the bore, resulting in the pistons travelling into previously untravelled area and into the cylinder ridge.
this is why every car bought from an old granny, by a younger person, ends up blowing smoke and being shagged in a very short period of time
this is because you drive it harder than the previous owner your rods will heat and stretch further and the pistons travel further up the bore, resulting in the pistons travelling into previously untravelled area and into the cylinder ridge.
this is why every car bought from an old granny, by a younger person, ends up blowing smoke and being shagged in a very short period of time
GVR40
Passion Fingers
as long as you put a good filter on (ryco are good quality filters) and some good oil you will have no worries. I had a gsr galant with over 350,000kms on the original motor, never blew smoke, never missed a beat.
I agree with milkandoj 10w40 - 15w40 and a good filter and you will be right
jack - i don't know if you have stripped or built a 4G63 but the top ring is never going to get the top of the bore unless the rod fails. I have pulled these motors down with over 200,000kms on them and not had an issue with ridge. not saying I haven't heard of it or come across it before but these motors are pretty tough.
I agree with milkandoj 10w40 - 15w40 and a good filter and you will be right
jack - i don't know if you have stripped or built a 4G63 but the top ring is never going to get the top of the bore unless the rod fails. I have pulled these motors down with over 200,000kms on them and not had an issue with ridge. not saying I haven't heard of it or come across it before but these motors are pretty tough.
nigel_a
YR2SLO
the rycos ive bought in the past have been well under $10 and the mitsi ones are about $15
i must clarify....when i say i drive it a little harder....i mean i might let it get to 4000-4500rpm between gears....to stretch its legs...where as the previous owner was changing gears at 2,000rpm...Its mainly in the powerband of 2nd and 3rd gear...where the car really pulls and the magic happens. Im wanting to keep the car relatively stock, but improving things like suspension, brakes, and various parts with modern counterparts of better quality than the original 20yr old parts...improve where i can... to have a good clean original example of a GSR...but "freshened" up... at the moment the suspension is running pedders all round, but it could be tighter and firmer... the original electronic gear was removed by previous owner a long time ago... the car has original cassette factory stereo..(still works great and doesnt chew tapes), i took off the towbar too, running factory exhaust system, etc etc...in mint condition really. SO ANY INFO, ADVICE, IDEAS etc PLEASE REPLY AND HELP A BROTHER OUT! Im also after a copy of a workshop manual for the car...
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4piknup
master of none
but these motors are pretty tough.
sounds good, the ridge effect must affect Shmouldens and Fyords more.
sounds good, the ridge effect must affect Shmouldens and Fyords more.
Revving it to 4500 is nothing, don't feel bad to let it sing and rev it as hard as you feel like its still making power. You wont be able to hurt it with the stock rev limiter in place. An NA 4g63 is tough like the turbo motors.
Ok thank you...thats a relief!!!......I must confess I was a little scared to push it past 4500rpm as it just seems like a lot for a little 4cyclinder....I did notice though that the car just wanted to keep going!! And the torque power curve was starting to really pull.....And looking at the factory Tacho I noticed the redline is not till like 7000rpm...? I have had Skylines with RB20DETs in them previously...and I thought they revved hard when the boost kicked in at 3500 and would it wind out to 6000rpm....but I reckon this little factory 1990 GSR Galant - NA 4g63 could rev just as hard and probaly perform better ....on a windy road with turns of course! Man Im loving this little car!!! and its mega comfy too!
Hello there
There is lots of factory options also , not a real ryco fan , I have seen them destroy alot of engines , other brands valvoline etc are pretty good also
NA 4G63 = MD136466
turbo = MD356000
skinny filter
MZ690115 can fit both
Ralliart , 4G63T
RAY57016
There is lots of factory options also , not a real ryco fan , I have seen them destroy alot of engines , other brands valvoline etc are pretty good also
NA 4G63 = MD136466
turbo = MD356000
skinny filter
MZ690115 can fit both
Ralliart , 4G63T
RAY57016
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
All filters with bypass valves have the ability to "hurt a motor" by letting unfiltered crap through the valve (had a Valvoline filter do that to one of my rally motors). But filters without bypass valves can be a restriction and also hurt a motor due to oil starvation.
The devil you know or the devil you don't!
The devil you know or the devil you don't!
If your changing with them every oil change, say every 5000kms, i do mine every 3000-4000km's, surely they shouldnt block up unless your engine's stuffed anyway and spitting out chunks of metal? I could be wrong?
Your already spending time and money on oil, so you change the filter that keeps it clean.
Your already spending time and money on oil, so you change the filter that keeps it clean.
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
The oil filter I had on my rally motor, the bypass valve was opening during normal running and allowing crap to pass through without being filtered. The filter wasn't even close to being blocked. I think the filters are simply too small to allow enough oil to flow through the filter medium and have to allow some/a lot through the bypass valve as well so they don't restrict oil flow. What happened was that the brass plating on the washers between the head and the valve springs started flaking off, made their way down to the sump, through the mesh filter on the pickup, chewed out the oil pump as they went through, most went straight through the oil filter courtesy of Mr bypass valve and then made their way into the crank and cam journals and wreaked havoc in there.
Oh yeah. So would it be better to run a filter with out a bypass valve coz our motor run quite high oil pressure as it is? If you were to watch pressure with a gauge? Or stick with the bypass valve ones?
Also i better point out i wasn’t aiming the tight ass comment at you. More the people i serve at work.
Also i better point out i wasn’t aiming the tight ass comment at you. More the people i serve at work.
brisvr4
Member
Just do what I do, change oil and filter when the oil changes colour 
GVR40
Passion Fingers
Just do what I do, change oil and filter when the oil changes colour
thats fine if you drive to the drag strip do 3 runs drive home and then change the oil!
