Who has after market FPR ?

4GTuner

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ive got a an areomotive one too.. being using it for a few years now.. well thats when the car is running
 
Are there any on the market that bolt to the fuel rail (e.g. OEM fit)?

I have used a SARD - would be extremely cautious buying one these days as most on the market are knock offs? The knock offs could be as good as the real items, they may not be? A FPR is an extremely basic instrument.
 
Magna fuel on the vr4.
Sx on the amg.

Magna fuel would be the best.
They use a tapered valve for linear flow whereas sx use a ball bearing. Others like Malpassi use a flat valve so flow can be quite poor.

Call efi hardware in Victoria for more info. They pull em apart and do allot of r&d. I think they even have their own type now for good $...
 
Aeromotive A1000 (-6AN model) here too :)

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I run a magnafuel too, great for a big fuel pump setup,or big bangers. efi do sell them but they are much cheaper from quantum racing in qld
 
I'm using factory Evo and always have in the past, why would you want an aftermarket shitter. Have run factory one to 40psi of boost on top of the 43psi of rail pressure no worries.
 
Same as Caged, was making 240kw's atw's daily. Std ftw, why fuck with something that's not broken? The KISS principal is often the best.
 
... and whether you've changed to an aftermarket fuel rail with different connections, what size injectors and what efficiency they are running at. Having an aftermarket FPR can let you play around a bit with pressures without having to change your injector sizes too.
The oem FPR has proven itself time and time again for plenty of high HP setups provided they are in good working condition, but in my case I was overhauling the entire 20 year old fuel system with larger lines and fittings. Doesnt hurt to make it look nicer at the same time too lol.
 
Stock fuel pressure regulator usually means higher base fuel pressure sure to fuel overrun (reg not able return fuel sufficiently at idle). So yes you can reduce your duty at idle to compensate but by reducing your injector duty you may be sacrificing idle quality. Ideally with idle, you want low pressure and higher duty. This will give you overall better idle characteristics.

Think of it as a garden tap with huge pressure behind it. As soon as you open the tap, water shoots out excessively. So to full your bucket you need to turn it on and let it dribble out otherwise it might splash and fill the bucket too quickly. So the water flow may be very rough and inconsistent.

But if your tap had lower pressure, you could open your tap a few turns and leave it there until the bucket fills up. With a nice even pretty flow of water.

Similar to the stock tb / stock intake manifold / stock valves / stock cams comments. You can make big power on all the above but you can make more effectively with the correct component. Correct meaning made for the application.
 
Yeah you're right about over running fuel reg but unless you are on a STD ECU or shit injectors its not a problem. Iv just done Id2000's onto an Evo 9 with STD reg and DW300 pump with a vipec and have no problems. Back in the day when we ran walbros or o44's with STD ECU we use to drill a tiny hole in the reg and it bypasses enough fuel to drop down to base at idle, never ran out of pump so it can't of been much.
 
Genuine Sard for me, on both of the Evos I've had, and my older RX-7. Also got them before for plenty of people in the UK.

Always seem to go down very well :)
 
Genuine sard here too... and if you don't want to stuff around with finding an adaptor to fit the fuel rail, just take the existing fpr off... drill out the valve, then put it back on (now fuel won't be regulated by it). Then tee your new fpr into the fuel return line (this means you can also mount it on the firewall by getting some extra fuel hose).

Simple as!!!
 

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