Will evo 1-3 Dump pipe fit RVR HSG, and a few other Q's!

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Hyper_Mike

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Hey guys, I was doing my first full clean up and check on the RVR today and I was wondering a few things. Will something like this fit the RVR HSG?

http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649

Also my front passenger side is making an odd creaking noise on initial acceleration and cornering. I need new CV joints as my "sleeving" has split on mine, but its not making the normal knocking CV noise. Anyone know what parts to use for our CV joints?

Finally I found out why my head lights are only working on high beam. I though the elements on the bulbs might be gone, but no, as you can see my plug is pretty much melted. Anyone has this before? Also anyone have a spare one i can buy?

Cheers, Mike
 

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Can't comment on the dump pipe but looks like it should be fine. I guess it depends on the specific turbo fitment though.

Creaking sounds like the springs aren't seated properly, Should be an easy fix once the car is jacked up.

I noticed when we swapped the lights out for crystal units that the connector isn't great and can sit badly, looking like it's fine. It actually leaves a gap and the circuit arcs and eventually burns up the connector.
 
Cheers for the reply mate. Ill have to check the springs tomorrow hopefully thats all it is! Yea the connector is completely ruined, i wonder if these are interchangeable with other mitsubishi models??
 
Yep, unclip the melted back panel and the metal connectors will slide out. There is a little locking tab that you need to depress in order to slide the connectors out.
Heaps of cars have the plastic bits.
Make sure connectors are tight on back if bulbs and check you arent running 90/130w bulbs
 
that 'sleeving' your saying is split is the CV boot. They are the same as the Evo 3 as far as I know and boots are easy enough to replace yourself, even the ends are if you source them cheap and they need replacing.
 
CV boots are a straight forward job with the right tools. I've got a daihatsu mira that needed the boots replaced and having never done it before was easy enough to do. The best way to do it is to just dismantle the cv's, the ones I had, had a small circlip locking the main bearing and cv itself in place. Just pop that out, remember where the ball bearings go then pop off the cv, pull the old boot off, slid the new one and don't forget to slide the boots ties on at this time too.... it's a pain the ass with everything greased to have to pull it apart... just saying.... ahahaha
Grease the cv with the boots on, then lock the boots in place, make sure you remeber what ridge they are supposed to be seated on as once they are tight its a pain to move them, again just saying...
once inner and outer ones are done, its a matter of lining everything up, going slowly to make sure you don't damage the splines that fit into the gearbox. There is a spring ring that is a pain to get in, just go slowly and just tap, tap tap it in and you will feel it seat. test rotation to make sure everything is seated and working correctly and the splines are lined up.
Assemble everything then repeat for the other side :D
Don't forget to top up the transmission fluid that will enevitably leak out when you pull the cv out, be prepared with an oil pan etc
supercheap have a fluid refill bottle with a hook hose and pump that works fantastically to top up the fluid with, wait till you have done both before filling too...
hope that helps.
The burnt plugs are easy enough to replace as mentioned if the wiring isn't damaged you pull the pins out, there is usually a flap that springs out and locks behind a plastic end, a small flat head screw driver is usually able to press that in enough to get the pins out. take a picture of the orientation before pulling them then any auto electrica store will have the replacement plugs.
 
I like this dude, he's got some great stuff. This is basically what deepsouth has explained about CV boots. Enjoy!



Oh and Moonchook is wrecking a HSG at the moment in the parts section if you still need another plug

Cheers

BTW Zip ties work fine for the clamps, just use the big ones and tighten with pliers.
 

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