Won't go into gear when in traffic

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rthy

rthy

No more Turbos
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Messages
140
Location
Melbourne
Hi guys,

Got a strange issue with the gsr, basically when intraffic for some time (5-15min) can't get into 1st gear but can kinda klunk into 2nd gear...
Its almost like as if the clutch isn't disengaging completely.

When cold or for the 1st 10-15mins driving it's fine, but once driving around in the traffic the problem occurs (damn DDLS training in south melbourne!).
Checked the clutch reservoir: checks out ok, no signs of leak, seems to be the same level when hot or cold.

Have a felling it might be the fluid which was changed over to some generic fluid not so long ago, is there any point in changing it?
Any recommended fluid?

Cheers
 
I would have thought the master cylinder up front and clutch in need of a bleed. But if you're adamant that you're not losing any fluid and that the clutch is bled properly I'd be checking:
1. Check the position of the clutch fork (there is a good video around here somewhere that shows where the fork should be sitting inside the rectangle hole with the rubber boot in the bellhousing).
2. Remove the slave cylinder and rod and check that its not pitted or leaking. Sometimes you may need to give the rod a push along with your hands whilst bleeding the clutch.
3. Get someone to sit in the car and shift gears to see if the shifter cables and linkage arms arent hitting something in the engine bay, or that the little plastic/nylon block in the shifter linkage isnt damaged or worn.
4. When was the last time you changed your gearbox oil? If its a GSR gearbox (non LSD) and its been a while, try putting some Castrol VMX-M or Syntrans 75W/85 GL4 into it (2.2 litres). Whilst you're at it do your transfer case with LSX90 SAE90 GL5 (0.5 litres).
5. The problem could ultimately be inside the gearbox. Anything from shift rails, damaged 1st/2nd gear hub and slider, even worn 1st/2nd keys, springs and synchros, to excessive bearing wear and shaft movement.
 
rthy said:
Hi guys,

Got a strange issue with the gsr, basically when intraffic for some time (5-15min) can't get into 1st gear but can kinda klunk into 2nd gear...
Its almost like as if the clutch isn't disengaging completely.

When cold or for the 1st 10-15mins driving it's fine, but once driving around in the traffic the problem occurs (damn DDLS training in south melbourne!).
Checked the clutch reservoir: checks out ok, no signs of leak, seems to be the same level when hot or cold.

Have a felling it might be the fluid which was changed over to some generic fluid not so long ago, is there any point in changing it?
Any recommended fluid?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Same symptoms i started off with http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/18875-cracked-firewall/page__p__236999#entry236999
 
I'd check the firewall and pedal box for cracks and the master and slave for leaks. If all are good try a master cyl adjustment.
 
Hey guys,

got my engine swapped cause i bought the car with a broken engine, now i have the problem that the Clutch pedal is sometimes hanging after changing the gears and it fells a little bit squishy, i also have to be careful inserting the Reverse gear, it cracks in 3 of 5 times, i also worry about the crankwalk cause my broken engine put out to be died of crankwalk and as is generally known and assumed that crankwalk happens of much pressure from the clutch...

Please can someone help me noob/newbie/beginner where i can give a look/shot to fix this issue, if it helps - the previous owner had to repair the (slave cyl?) but it cant be broken again or can it?
cause he only drove the car for 3 weeks until it got its crankwalk issue and then another 2 months till i got my spare part 4g63...

I hope youll understand my text, if not just feel free to ask.

please tell me if i should open up a new Thread or i can write up here

Greetings
 
Kaya,


bleed the hydraulic system of the clutch......if it feels squishy, you have air in the system.

It is best to start with new components....
 
I feel your pain, I was having issues with my clutch for ages. No one seemed to be able to tell me what was wrong.
I had both my master and slave cylinder re-sleeved and changed my clutch line to aero fittings and a -4 braided line. This worked for a while then the problem returned. So I took my cylinders back to be re-machined (for free of course :)) and the guy said that the glue had not bonded properly in the master cylinder causing fluid to by-pass the plunger by flowing under the new lining. He also mentioned that it looked like it had suffered from a bit of overheating. Being a Tarmac car I wasn't supprised at all.
So I fitted everything back in and changed the route of the clutch line to run as far away from the heat of the engine as possible.
Seemed to work.
Some other thing people suggested to me to check are:
1. The clutch pedal pivot and spring.
2. The firewall, both inside and outside the car for cracks or loose bolts
3. Peal back the rubber boots on both the cylinders and check for fluid.
4. The hard-line running over the top of the gearbox has rubber lines at either end which may have perished over time.

Hope that helps
 
here is a really easy check and it will tell you quickly whether or nor your clutch is adjusted correctly.

get under the car - find the clutch slave (front of the gearbox near the front engine mount)

simply push it in with your finger. If it is hard and doesn't move - your clutch needs adjustment!

if it feels too easy and pushes back in with little to no resistance - your clutch needs adjustment!
It should be firmish but still allow the rod to go back inside the cylinder.

Now! this doesn't ommit any leaking of shagged clutch parts but it will steer you into the right direction.

If the clutch slave has the correct movement then you better start looking at the other above mentioned areas.

Jacks Transmissions has a very good youtube vid on correct clutch setup!

JetGSR
 
could be a clutch plate not moving on the gbox spines, thus dragging on either flywheel or pressure plate...
this is what my proton is doing atm...

the reason it only does it hot is because of heat and friction...

this is why you should quickly run a fine file over the splines to make sure there isnt any small burrs...
 
thanks guys

quite a strange issue indeed
triple checked to make sure there are not leaks/cracks or missing bolts

flushed the fluid with no change.
(have done afew toyota rwd 4age/auto to man conversions, unless the lancer has a different method of bleeding?)

ill try and replace the clutch hoses and see if it does anything
if its the spline heating up, maybe an adjustment should fix it
 
Yup did a slight adjustment yesterday so the clutch pedal sits alot higher than the brake pedal.
Noticed it had actual free play, took it for an hour or so drive and can still klunk into 1st gear.

So yeah looks like it just needs more adjustment to make it sit right.

Thanks all
 

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