This is a picture of the window switch already out of the car, with its' back removed. The back comes off pretty easily, just pry it outwards off of the white tabs (the red arrow points to one of the tabs), and it will pop off. The pink arrow is pointing to the stock auto-DOWN diode. If you look at the circuit board where it is mounted, you should see the schematic for the diode right underneath it. This is important in the future.This is a picture of the circuit board on the other end of the switch assembly. It shows the empty space for the auto-UP diode (circled). Note it looks like a triangle pointing at a bar - that bar is very important. Diodes have stripes on their bodies, and that stripe should be towards the bar on the circuit. If you hook it up backwards, you will burn up the circuit board. Note that the bar is away from the white plug on the switch. The alignment of the UP diode should match theDOWN diode on the circuit board, and in your wiring.This is a picture of the other side of the circuit board after I used desoldering braid and a soldering iron to remove the solder. It's ready to insert the diode.Sliding the diode leads into the solder holes to check how far to trim the leads. Don't leave them too long, or they can arc to the main switch contacts. Once I get the spacing of the 90 degree bends set on the diode leads, I trim them off so they only stick through the circuit board 1/16" or so. Note how the band on the diode matches up with the bar on the diode diagram on the circuit board.Another view of the diode in place, while checking lead length. Once you have the lead length right, just solder the diode down to the diode pads, and you're almost done.The only thing left to do on the switch is to cut off the tab on the driver's switch that keeps it from locking down into the auto-up position. Just cut the tab off flush with the bottom of the rest of the button, and you're done with the auto-up mod. But while you have the switch out, you might as well clean the contacts