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Benzo4gT

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Joined
Mar 23, 2012
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1,318
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The home of unemployed bogans - Hervey bay,
Well, here goes my rant. As some have seen I acquired a '63 mostly assembled short block from Ebay, I just had to torque everything down, clean up the head, gasket torque that down and thought I'd be good to go. But as we all know, building an engine to certain specs is a complicated thing, we see some goodies and add them, spot some bargains and decide to change the build to incorporate them, y'know, the usual man stuff (or woman perhaps).

I found a knife edged crank and bought it, it had been checked by Jack Bros and tested fine so I thought I'd pull my short block down to put this crank in. The block had a nice hone job and looked ok, the pistons were all spick and span as far as I could see.

Here is where it gets interesting, while I started pulling it down I decided to do the balance shaft removal, rotate the bearings 180 degrees, cut and weld the stubby shaft for the shaft that is driven off the oil pump etc. I noticed the inside of the block was grubby, like dirty black brown oil. Obviously not been tanked, and that's when the alarm bells started to ring in my head.

I have some very accurate scales from days past so decided to weigh the rods and pistons after a meticulous clean, carby cleaner, air blower, you know the drill. 3 weighed in at 1058 grams, one weighed in at 1049 grams. Second stage alarm bells ringing. I did this about 10 times with the same results.
I lifted the crank out and discovered the bearing closest to the front was scored, and I mean not useable. About this time the alarm bells in my head could be audibly heard by anyone standing near me!

I put the crank which looked perfectly cleaned and polished into my parts washer, gave it a wash down the journals, put carby cleaner down them as well then blew all the journals out with compressed air putting fingers over the holes etc. and some crap hit my finger, wtf right?, so I put a rag on down to catch the stuff from the rest of the them with these results.

The thing was rebuilt after a crankwalk episode, the gouges in the block are huge. So anyway, dirty block, crank full of tar like crap, a set of eagle rods and CP pistons with a HUGE 9 gram difference in one of them, 1 gouged bearing while all other are perfect and a honed block with 3 of the same pistons and they grabbed another to use for the rebuild (if in fact you could call it that)

My suspicion is someone has realised how much work needed to be done to CORRECTLY build it and pulled an ebay swifty. I've given it all over to Jcak Bros to put it all right, crack test everything, hot tank, balance etc Close to $2700 in parts and machining as a total so far, not including any gaskets, engine bearings, head service, cams and decking gears or any other parts to make it a long engine.

If it looks cheap on ebay, gumtree or what ever, chances are something is wrong. I feel so dirty now, I might shower myself like Ace Ventura did in pet detective.
 

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dang man that sucks balls! I have had a similar experience but not that expensive! Can you file a claim with paypal or chase the bloke up?
 
Thanks Guys, I pay cold hard cash for everything, so no receipt for the engine, and anyway he was moving house at the time. But 1kg sugar in fuel tank, 3day old piss and sunriped prawn smoothie poured across the windscreen cowl, vegemite all over the exhaust, yeah, I know a few good ones lol.

I will think of the positives though, the pistons might not fit in the block that Jack Bros have, but I have a spare std unmolested one that can be honed, 2 good cranks and the knife edged one, and 2 cyl heads. I'll probably have to buy some new forged pistons to fit the old block the CPs were only rated to 700hp and rods and crank are rated to 1000hp. :blink: Pfffft, like I'll make anywhere near that anyway.
I hope the piston crack tests come back clear.
 
You will need a receipt / signed statement from the seller when buying an engine, especially if its going to be for a street rego'd car (in case its dodgy or stolen).
Motor Registries do ask for proof of purchase when doing the number change on rego papers, so you might have to contact the seller and ask for a signed statement and hopefully a scan copy of their drivers license too lol ;)
 
You will need a receipt / signed statement from the seller when buying an engine, especially if its going to be for a street rego'd car (in case its dodgy or stolen).
Motor Registries do ask for proof of purchase when doing the number change on rego papers, so you might have to contact the seller and ask for a signed statement and hopefully a scan copy of their drivers license too lol ;)
Car vin I understand, and I have a receipt and stat dec for the car, but there is no plate anywhere on the rvr chassis that has any reference for engine number, only engine family. It looks like I'll need to torque hone and line hone the block I bought, so I'll more than likely use the original that came with the car which was atmo, it will save me the oil squirter delete and shouldn't have had much power stressing the girdle and block saving me the $180 line hone.
 
We get it pretty sweet in Qld

4.1 MANUFACTURER’S OPTIONAL ENGINE INSTALLATION
Substituting the original engine with a manufacturer’s optional engine is a modification that does
not require certification. However, any other components (such as brakes, transmissions,
suspension, exhaust, etc.) that were packaged by the manufacturer as part of the original
specification for the optional engine must also be fitted.
4.2 ENGINE RECONDITIONING
Reconditioning an engine is not a modification and therefore does not require certification,
providing the engine remains within the manufacturer’s specification limits.
Where gaseous and/or noise emission ADRs apply, all standard equipment (such as carburettors,
engine management computers, exhaust systems, exhaust gas recirculating valves, oxygen
sensors, catalytic converters, etc.), relating to noise and emission control must be retained and
operate correctly. Any replacement parts should be of a standard equivalent to the original
equipment.

Mod plate for turbo engine not needed :thumbsup:
 
only for you RVR boys us coupe owners have to plate up :(.

my coupe has a grand total of 8 codes $300 for the first one and $50 for each code after grand total $650 in engineering still better than nsw.
 
yeah and i'm sure i have redundancies
la1 la3 lb1 ld1 ld2 lg2 lm1 lk2

qld hasn't adopted the full ncop the LT series of codes for emissions arn't used at all so as far as emissions go as long as you have a cat and < 90db noise output your good

they've plated you for absolutely everything they don't do that up here.
 
Mine is engineered under the VSCCS

I have

LW1, LW3, LH3, LH4, LG1, LA1, LA3, LA4, LC1, LC3, LB1, LL1, LK1, LK9, LF1, LD1

I dont have

LM1, my fuel tank hasn't been modded, just replaced,
LK2, I didn't modify the seat belt anchorage, the floor I welded in had them attached to it
LD2, Differential Substitution... no I threw a diff in that's covered with LD1
LG2, my brakes were a bolt on, so no modifications were made
 
lg2 is brake system conversion going from drums to disks. (theyre essentially the same thing between lg1 and lg2 anyway)
lm1 is fuel tank replacement specifically (Fitting an alternative fuel tank;)
ld2 like i said probably some redundancies
lk2 my seat-belt anchorages are the stock coupe items the code was applied as a "just to be safe" for the recaros (looks like he's certified the recaro seat itself as being compliant.) i dunno

i thought i'd need an lh code aswell but technically the wheel base stays the same for me (since gsr has the same track as normal only evo 3 goes larger)

got no idea what code lc is for or LW for that matter not ure why you have an LL code either
 
LG1 and LG2 are different

LG1 Brake System Substitution (Design) BOLT ON
LG2 Brake System Substitution (Modification) IF THE BRAKES HAVE BEEN MODIFIED TO FIT


Here is whats listed on my report

LW1 = Axle: Installation / Modification AWD CONVERSION
LW3 = Wheels / Tyres Package: Installation / Modification BIGGER WHEELS THAN FACTORY
LC1 = Intake / Exhaust System: Modification 3" EXHAUST SYSTEM
LC3 = Turbo / Supercharger Installation / Modification BIGGER TURBO
LL1 = Lighting System: Installation / Modification CCFL/PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS AND HID GLOBES
 
why i'd much rather try and buck the hoon stereotype an officer on the side of the road might actually lube the dildo first if you are at-least trying to stay compliant.

in the grand scheme of things getting your mods engineered is a small price compared to the rest of the work. just try and get as much certified in one hit as you can to save some dosh. like say if i wanted to get something else now i'd need another plate (in addition to the one i have) and it would cost $300. so it'd suck to do each of the above separately at 300 a pop. for most people doing a 63 or 93t swap with the supporting awd gearbox you'd do the 2 code and be done. remember i and mikey have awd conversions which are a touch more involved. there is another young gentleman in qld about to start an awd coupe project who has already asked for some info. unfortunately i wasn't as hands on with that aspect as i'd have liked they got the work done so damn fast. my awd was done and engineered in one week most of which was probably time spent waiting on the tail shaft and engineer. with a total bill at the end of 3700 INC tail shaft mod and certs bloody cheap i think

for me ld2 is the axles and ld1 is the diff and la3 covers my larger evo turbo plus no codes for exhaust (could that mean technically if you had a varex at time of certification your would be legal?
 

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