23 replies to this topic

[GSRONP]

ok well the jist is..
i got my car running today ater a few months / weeks of problems with it.

some of you may know but.. this is what ive done.

gsr shell 1992
vr4 engine 1991
gsr wiring loom
evo 3 chipped ecu
tdo5 20g turbo
evo 3 afm
evo 3 yellow top 510cc
and all the fancy custom intercooler piping etc etc

now what happened today was.

had it hooked up to another car to jump start and also needed a jumper pack.
tried starting it the first time.. timing sounds _bad_ but finally starts after a little while. runs fine with few random noises idles fine.. but i rev it out and.. no turbo there is no turbo wind up or blow off valve at all... there is now fresh oil through my intercooler piping which is the intake side(oil shouldnt be here right?) but yeah anyway i got a second opinion and was told my turbo was stuffed.

bad points i still need to finish on my car.. few plugs that i dont no havint been hooked up.. none of the water temp housing unit plugs are fitted and also the oil sender plug is not connected.

my engine has just been rebuilt so no way is it anything wrong with my engine.

im also running it with the gsr coil packs and that ignition sensor on the gsr coil pack. the vr4 one wouldnt start properly.


WHAT I WOULD LIKE YOUR OPINIONS ON...

i would like to no what you think is wrong with the turbo or is it just a seal?

and also is it even my turbo could it be something esle?

and what else do i need to change to perhaps make the timing perfect. it wont start by itself it needs a jump start every time.

THANKS GUYS :)

[GSRONP]

and if anyone can make me up or no were to find a wiring diagram for the water temp housing for a gsr and a vr4 or from gsr loom to vr4 housing that would be mint. =)

[JAP63]

ok well the jist is..


but i rev it out and.. no turbo there is no turbo wind up or blow off valve at all... there is now fresh oil through my intercooler piping which is the intake side(oil shouldnt be here right?) but yeah anyway i got a second opinion and was told my turbo was stuffed.

i would like to no what you think is wrong with the turbo or is it just a seal?

and also is it even my turbo could it be something esle?

A little oil is ok, in fact its normal, how much have you got...and what setup are you running for sump breather etc, ie, have you got breather pipes from the head going into the inlet pipe before the turbo? and if so, is the one way valve connected and in the proper way?

Theres not really gonna be much noise from you blow off valve when u rev it up, it depends on what type of valve/how much boost etc..., take the front pipe off the compressor housing while the motor is running, if the compressor wheel is spinning then that the would indicate its at least working. When a turbo dies it usually does one of the following.

• High pitch shrieking noise on boost (f*ked thrust bearing)
• Intermittent burning of oil out exhaust pipe, no real pattern to when, but usually when driving often enough for someone to see it and know its f*cked, it will be blue smoke.
• Makes no boost-Snapped shaft, missing or exploded turbine wheel (which ends up in the cat) or damged compressor fins, not really that likely if you havent had n e thing go thru the motor.

Edited by JAP63, 24 November 2008 - 12:41 PM.

[mrcyborg]

well first off would check to see if the turbo spins and if it has any side or back and forth movement. not much else can coat the intake in oil. but like said, a little is normal. but since its all new, you shouldnt have much as all.
if its not spinning, it would also cuase starting and running issues.
has the base timing been set properly? with plug on fire wall ground and all?

[GSRONP]

a little is normal i no but this is not a little bit of oil its almost added up to about 1 liter and its coming from my up pipe on the turbo to my intercoolerpiping which should really have any oil in it..
and on the air filter ive got no pipes coming in as ive got a oil catch can

[GSRONP]

well first off would check to see
has the base timing been set properly? with plug on fire wall ground and all?

could you fill me in on what your on about here XD im not a mechanic but i no alot of the basics and how mitsis work =)

i dont no much about adjusting time.

its taking alot of juice to start it. running off safari with two batterys and a jump pack still needed O.o ive changed the leads several times so i no its not jumper leads.

[JAP63]

could you fill me in on what your on about here XD im not a mechanic but i no alot of the basics and how mitsis work =)

i dont no much about adjusting time.

its taking alot of juice to start it. running off safari with two batterys and a jump pack still needed O.o ive changed the leads several times so i no its not jumper leads.

In order to adjust the timing, you need to set the base timing, to do this , the ecu needs to be in a grounded mode to show you static 'base'timing, not dynamic ecu timing...when you put the timing light on the harmonic balncer to read the igniton timing etc.. you need to be in this 'static' mode

There is a small plug at the passenger side of the firewall on VR4's, since yours is a gsr i got no idea where itd'd be and since youve done an engine swap its gonna make it more difficult again, but what you do is earth this little plug, and the engine goes into static base timing, you then adjust the timing from here....

Id be talking to EVO-OOX, he's done transplants before, i really got no idea of what happens when you swap the motor to a cc shell, id be looking at getting either aftermarket igniton gear on there, or the VR4 gear on there, i wouldn be using the GSR 1.8L igniton system on the VR4 motor. Id look at getting all the electrics sorted first and then going from there, did you get the vr4 loom and ecu etc?

As for your turbo, you say you have approx 1 litre of oil in the first pipe on the compression side of the turbo? That is way too much, maybe the seal internally is leaking to the compressor side, though it usually goes to the exhaust side when its gone.

Edited by JAP63, 24 November 2008 - 08:32 PM.

[GSRONP]

i tried running it on the vr4 ignition gear and it wouldnt start at all..

my exhaust is also drenched with oil. -.-

would air flow meter affect the start up? because the air flow meter i bought was supposibly a evo 3 one but the numbers have been scratched off and im wondering if ive been scammed into buying a standy mitsi v6 afm.

anyway when i get the time my first step is to take the turbo off and examine it.

if a seal in the turbo is gone would that stuff the turbo or can i just clean it and put a new seal on it?

[CLuTZ]

First of all I would hook up all the sensors that you havent hooked up. These can cause havoc.

Just because the engine has been rebuilt, doesnt mean that it can't be fucked. All engine builders have a failure rate percentage.

What oil are you using to run it in?

Personally, if I didnt know what I was doing with getting the car running properly, I would get someone who does to help me

[JAP63]

First of all I would hook up all the sensors that you havent hooked up. These can cause havoc.

Just because the engine has been rebuilt, doesnt mean that it can't be fucked. All engine builders have a failure rate percentage.

Thats a fair point, and a possibility too, but have faith in them and get all the other issues sorted before you head down that track.

Personally, if I didnt know what I was doing with getting the car running properly, I would get someone who does to help me

I feel the same here mate, sounds like youve got a million and one issues, people here are glad to help, and beleive me , all the knowledge is here, but realy only one point at a time, it does sound like you got a fair few things to solve.

Pm GVR40 or BrisVR4 about the airflow meter numbers, theyre 2 ppl off the top of my head that'd know about that, i think its called a 609 afm or something, and as far as your turbo goes, if your exhust is full of oil, then id say yes, the turbo is shagged, the seal were talking about isnt an o-ring u just pop off and away u go, it will invole having the cartridge (centre bit) replaced if not having the wholer turbo overhauled..or, just get another one..thats if it shageed, have some one who knows look at it, you could have an oil feed line leking or something.


Get onto EVO-OOX, he knows conversions, and above all like clutz said, get your electrics and plugs sorted first, no point half fixing 10 issues and getting nothing fixed properly

You can fault find as you go, but not until you cancel out problems and be sure theyre fixed, otherwise, the whole thing will turn into a headache and you will get frustrated and get nowhere..

My 2 cents;





First things id be doing

• Get wiring diagram for evo/Vr4 and a multimeter.
• install all the VR4/evo wiring loom and all the plugs, injector balast resistor, afm, ignitor, O2 sensor, ignition system, ecu, the whole lot, test them as you go to check they actually work, get someone who knows what theyr doing to help along the way..if a part is faulty and you install it, it may cause you to think something else is up, check it all as you go.
• Get the fuel pump and fuel delivery system setup properly
• Get the vaccum bank and all vac hoses installed correctly,block ur blow off valve 4 now(to eliminate it as a vac leak source) , clamp up the cooler pipes etc.

From here, then start looking at mechanics. The turbo is the last of your worries really, and yes the incorrect afm will affect things, i dont know much about how it works, but the afm needs to be in range with the ecu, it may work ok but if the correct afm and ecu arent used together the air fuel ratios will be all over the place, it will likely run rich or lean instaed of stoich.

vr4 engine
gsr wiring loom
evo 3 chipped ecu
evo 3 afm

This here sounds like most of your problem though, theres too many components from different cars, it really all needs to be put together electrically with the correct parts...Its not impossible with what youv'e got, just needs sorting..you may ned to look at your CAS too, if you running a vr4 motor with an E3 ecu

Someone here will have al the diagrams /schematics you need

Id be reading all of this

http://4gtuner.com/s...read.php?t=3492

Edited by JAP63, 25 November 2008 - 03:10 AM.

[GSRONP]

ok well update from today..
i took my turbo off and got it checked out.. nothing wrong with it..

so i gave it a good clean and chucked it back on the only thing i changed was the actuator i replaced it with a new one out of randomness.

i got it going after a while of turning over and the turbo is running now and bov working.

so no i need to no..

what color wires go to which plugs all around the water temp housing (unit that top radiator pipe goes to) there is on my housing.. anyone with a vr4 could they please fill me in on which wire goes what plug??

and also i need to no how to hook up a oil sensor plug.. i noticed that this was missing and cant find it on the loom.. this is a two pin sensor by the bottom pulleys by the oil filter etc.

apart from that what else would cause the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT to come on?

[JAP63]

would cause the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT to come on?

only about a million other things

AFM and CAS all sorted?

[Dean]

mine comes on when my AFM plug unplugs,
check yours is plugged in properly, as above.

[VR-4Squid]

if the CE light is on, check the fault codes and the ecu WILL TELL YOU which sensor it's not happy with.

www.vfaq.com has instructions for how to check fault codes, and what they mean.

[GSRONP]

anyone no what i need to hook up the oil sender too or were do i wire it up?

now my car stumps at 4000revs... sounds like its redlining but its only at 4000rpm.. i think i had this problem a while back when it was a gsr and it was my coil pack? but everything seems to be connected and fine..

any ideas? im almost in state of giving up but i no it cant be that much more

[VR-4Squid]

check the fault codes!

[cblancergsr]

the engine check light will only come on if a sensor isnt hooked up or if there is a problem that will cause poor emissions

[VR-4Squid]

the engine check light will only come on if a sensor isnt hooked up or if there is a problem that will cause poor emissions

If ANY sensor is giving the ecu a reading outside what it considers 'normal' (including no signal at all) it will store a fault code.

It takes 30seconds to check, and it's free. . .

The oil pressure sender needs to be connected to the loom in that corner of the bay, it's pretty much the only wire that sticks out by itself (down low, theres one that goes to the power steering pump above).

This could well be the cause of the problem (one of the coolant temp sensors on the thermostat housing will stop the car from starting at all if it's not connected).

[cblancergsr]

it will store a fault code but wont actually make the engine check light come on

i learnt that on thursday night at a variable valve train and diagnostic course

best of finding what diagnsotic trouble codes are logged and go from there and yes if oil pressure switch is not connected or leaking and if the coolant temp sensor isnt hooked up is enough too make a problem with starting the car and theres plenty more sensors that also will make the car not start

[GSRONP]

ok well could someone with a gsr just take a quick picture of the plug?
and im guessing no one nos how to re wire up the thermo plugs / wires?

ive got all the vr4 thermo plugs but wires are different and i cant find anywhere that tells me the matches.