731 replies to this topic

[Evo-00x]

Thanks


Na the coupes only ever came out in FWD. The GL 1.5 carby version weighed 900kg and the GLXi 1.8 EFI weighed 970kg.

Weight wise, my coupe converted to AWD with the 4G63, including rest of the gear registered 1240kg on the weighbridge during engineering.
BUT!! 19.5kg of that was the Optima D34 yellow top battery!!!! lol
Plus I have aircon fitted, had a toolbox in the back and some carpeted mdf as a false boot floor. So it would actually weigh less.
Basically fully loaded with extra gear, it still weighs a little less than a stock EVO I-III.

The 2 door didnt come out AWD, but the 4-door shape with coupe front and rear end was released in NZ and other countries as the AWD Mirage VIE Saloon.
These AWD's run basically the same running gear as a GSR I believe.
See pic.

[DOUGMO]

If I keep going the way i am at the moment I will be at stock coupe GL weight

[Evo-00x]

You or your car George? bwahahahaha

[DOUGMO]

Both

[syco_rvr]

works been a little quiet the last 2 days so decided to go through the whole build and have to say this thing has come a F**KING long way
hat goes off to you for persevering through the thick and thin.

one thing that still has my mind in a muddle though is that you mention the coupes never came 4WD, do all the EVO/GSR rear end goodes like subframe, suspension arms and hubs bolt right up? also whats the story with drivetrain tunnel?

if i have missed this info feel free to send me somewhere to read
really contemplating doing a similar project considering i have the motor, box, tcase, rear diff, and with as you mentioned how readily available EVO/GSR parts are here in NZ also cant say ive seen or heard of one here and the coupes themselves are relatively cheap for a road legal base.

Cheers
Anthony

[EVL20T]

All coupes/hatches have a tunnel, the exhaust goes through the centre of them usually, if u look under a GSR u can see the same tunnel and the exhaust sits at the side and the tailshaft the other side

Its not a matter of bolting up the awd gear straight into the coupe, the floor pan from the rear seat back are different

The coupes hang too low which doesnt allow the diff to fit, plus the coupe doesnt have captive nuts in the chassis rail for the subframe to bolt up to

Heres a link to my photos, shows what was done, we dont have pics of Robs conversion

http://s1149.photobu...955352548386288

[Geo&Kez]

Just looked through all the photo's. That's been a mammoth effort man. Well done.

[leadfoot]

you can also see here for photos taken during my conversion
my car is done with all gsr running gear 1.8lt gsr box kframe etc

http://s27.photobuck...r?sort=3&page=1

[syco_rvr]

thanks for the help guys, they are some pretty handy photos, definitely keen to make this happen here,
will just need to do some research into the NZ regulations regarding the playing around with the chassis,

time to pull the old motor and box apart and make sure everything is in tip top shape

looking forward to seeing what you do down the quarter Rob with the new tune

[Evo-00x]

Cheers, me too! lol. Gotta buy a new battery first then will be looking to book it in with Micks Motorsports in Sydney for the tune.
Yeah my brother Mikey (EVL20T) has got some good photos of when his coupe got converted to AWD on his link up there ^^^^^
If you're patient, anything is achievable

[Evo-00x]

OK just a little update. Pretty much figured out that with all the additional electrical items I'm running in the car, the oem 70A alternator isn't providing enough charge to the Optima battery to keep it happy. Im seeing about 12.5-13v. Need to get that sorted before I purchase a new battery obviously. Therefore I ended up buying a remanufactured (new) 140A GVR4 alternator from the US - double the amperage should do the job lol
I read that when installing the larger current alternators that you must also upgrade the power cables from alternator to fuse box, the cables to the battery, including the earths. I already have this all done, except for the cable that runs from the alternator, under the radiator and to the fuse box. Will need to run either an extra 4 or 8 gauge cable from the alternator along that path (so it will be OEM + extra cable between alternator to fusible link) or replace it with a single thick 2 gauge cable and standalone external circuit breaker (meh, I'll go with option 1 thanks). The BA/BF Falcons use the dark maroon/brownish coloured 140A fusible link with open ended prongs so they will be easy to find to replace our OEM alternator 80A one.

 

8 OCTOBER UPDATE:

I cranked the engine over with Benno today and the new alternator is providing 14.4v at idle which is plenty of charge for the new battery. When the high beams and fans were put on full, with stereo and gauges operational, it was effecting the idle a lot (due to not having the car tuned yet with the recent mods) and the idle was dropping to around 600-700rpm. When holding the pedal to around 1100rpm where I anticipate the idle will be set, the voltage was still over 14v. That's a great sign that the new alternator, thicker wiring and earthing kit are doing their job properly

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Edited by EVO-00X, 14 June 2016 - 11:00 AM.

[EVL20T]

Looks good

I still dunno why it uses too much power, people with a massive sound system still used OEM gear

But anyways

http://www.ebay.com/...57c1e26&vxp=mtr

[jack be nimble]

Looks good

I still dunno why it uses too much power, people with a massive sound system still used OEM gear

But anyways

http://www.ebay.com/...57c1e26&vxp=mtr

They plug them into a power point...

[evo-gsr]

can you do it Jack? get someone to film it too??

[Chaser]

I highly doubt that your car will be pulling over 40 amps constantly rob. including all lights on and fans running. but good to see you are taking the carefull approach.

[Evo-00x]

Thanks to big Rob Barac for his Shep Racing billet internal transfer case and beefy yoke, plus modified driveshaft with larger 1310 size uni and Commodore carrier bearing upgrade.
Im glad you went to auto transmission dude lol. Going to give them a good clean and inspection before putting them to good use

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[Evo-00x]

Alrighty, the new Optima Yellow top battery just came in. This time around I better pay attention to looking after it instead of letting it discharge for long periods of time
Also got a nice CTEK MXS 7.0 battery charger to do the job of looking after it between drives.
Ive got NO EXCUSES for not looking after this battery now

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[Evo-00x]

^{Just a little update. This time some bits and pieces to redo the oil return line from the turbo to the sump.
Then all that's left to do is run an extra 4gauge wire from the new 140A alternator to a 140A fusible link.
Then it'll be ready for some time on a dyno}

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Edited by EVO-00X, 02 January 2016 - 12:50 AM.

[ENGINR]

Looks very swish, I never realised they had washer seals for the bolt holes!

[DOUGMO]

the stock dowty washers are a must have shayne