731 replies to this topic

[Entaran]

Please please please tell me you put them on in the right direction. The slots are supposed to face the other way mate. The outer edge of the slot should lead the inner edge (near the hub). Aka it looks backwards and should "slice" the brakepad.

Ring RDA and ask

[EVL20T]

I always though its suppose to push the dust outwards like Bazs

http://4gtuner.com/s...37&d=1256128233

Edited by EVOCPE, 31 October 2009 - 11:40 AM.

[3zercrowd]

Please please please tell me you put them on in the right direction. The slots are supposed to face the other way mate. The outer edge of the slot should lead the inner edge (near the hub). Aka it looks backwards and should "slice" the brakepad.

Ring RDA and ask

RDA label the Rotors L & R Lorry.

Mine are the same way too...

There is a thread about it somewhere too...cant be assed finding it though:P

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[Entaran]

Obscure. On the vr4 they go the opposite way, and yeah they're labelled you're right. Mine were very much backwards to that, I even rang RDA to check and they told me that's how they go on.

Weirdness.

[ENGINR]

It's one of those things that you'd lie awake at night stressing over - "Did I install my rotors the right way!?"

[Evo-00x]

They are supposed to go on as per the pics fitted on my car Easy way to tell is by looking at where the caliper is located (front of the car for front brakes), and the slots spin in that direction to go forward. My rotors are actually RDA VR4 rotors and were labelled left and right on the box (see photo), but its easy to tell anyway.

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Edited by EVO-00X, 22 June 2011 - 03:23 PM.

[FRANK-E]

makes me wanna get them on my car now lol

[Evo-00x]

Small update:
Im getting a lot of heatsoak from the exhaust manifold radiate onto the bonnet after a drive, therefore I need to protect the black paintwork.
I've bought some Dynamat Xtreme matting to put under the bonnet to help keep the bonnet temps down.
The job only took a couple of hours making up cardboard templates and finally cutting them out to shape and sticking them on
I'm holding onto the templates in case anybody else needs a copy of them for their coupe bonnet.
The Dynamat only cost me about $35AU all up delivered (US Ebay ) and is a single 32" x 18" sheet (4 squ feet).
Its a simple but effective method I had been meaning to do for a while but kept putting off

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Edited by EVO-00X, 22 June 2011 - 03:30 PM.

[JSTYLE]

looks interesting? does it work better then the factory bonnet underlining?

Jon

[Evo-00x]

What factory bonnet underlining? lol
Yeah its apparently good shit. You can add another product called Dynamat Hoodliner on top of the Xtreme as a second layer of protection and reflect up to 97% of radiant heat to the bonnet. Im gonna see how this works first before getting the hoodliner. See: http://www.dynamat.c..._hoodliner.html . It even mentions 'for best results use over Dynamat Xtreme' . Im not really worried about the heat bouncing back because Ive taken steps to protect a lot of the parts and hoses around the exhaust manifold and dump pipe from heat

[JSTYLE]

What factory bonnet underlining? lol
Yeah its apparently good shit. You can add another product called Dynamat Hoodliner on top of the Xtreme as a second layer of protection and reflect up to 97% of radiant heat to the bonnet. Im gonna see how this works first before getting the hoodliner. See: http://www.dynamat.c..._hoodliner.html . It even mentions 'for best results use over Dynamat Xtreme' . Im not really worried about the heat bouncing back because Ive taken steps to protect a lot of the parts and hoses around the exhaust manifold and dump pipe from heat

Just admit it you wanted some shiny stuff underneath your bonnet

Jon

[Evo-00x]

Yeah OK I admit it

I tell you what, these coupe bonnets come down so low over the 4G63T engine that the front of them are subjected to a lot of heat soak. To give you an idea of how low they sit, I couldnt close my bonnet when I originally fitted Coil Over Plugs on the rocker cover because they fouled on the under bonnet bracing. So I sold the COP's and got 4 individual Haltech coils and mounted them on the firewall instead. I also had to get a bonnet bulge made to clear the timing belt cover. After a drive you could easily cook an egg on the bonnet or steam water in the rain. Thats why I put the heat shielding up to help preserve the black paintwork

[Evo-00x]

On another note I sold my spare EVO1 gearbox last week to help fund a tune soon. I didnt really want to do it but funds were a bit scarce the last few months due to medical expenses

I now want to make up another spare gearbox... a better one. Even though the GSR box Im currently running was rebuilt, its not liking to shift above 6500rpm due to single synchro 3rd and 4th

Therefore I'm planning to build a hybrid gearbox with a mix of EVO1/EVO3/GSR parts with double synchro 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears to help with shifting higher in the rev range. First purchase to the gearbox project - a rare EVO I-III Ralliart 1-way front LSD I know someone who has been running one of these for years in his street/strip/track Evo and in his opinion he reckons they're a great mechanical plate-type LSD and not as harsh on a road car as other major brand aftermarket LSDs are. They apparently use the same kind of internals as the factory Evo mechanical rear LSDs do and they have a nice streetable progressive action as long as you don't run shockproof oil in them apprently lol.

I know after reading up on members cars over the years that the centre diff is also a weak link in the gearbox, therefore I'll be upgrading it to a 4-spider unit. Im currently waiting on a centre diff housing to get machined for a 4-spider cross shaft. Apparently, according to TMZ and DSM forums, a 4-spider centre with upgraded cross-shaft should be strong enough for up to 600hp.

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Edited by EVO-00X, 19 October 2011 - 12:06 PM.

[Evo-00x]

OK, Ive got an EVO 3 gearbox lined up for delivery this week and taken delivery of my new 4-spider centre diff
The spare box will be changed to 3.545 rear diff ratio and Im going to mix and match some different EVO gear ratios in it too, plus strengthen it up here and there and make things a bit more reliable.
I want to spend time in detailing the teeth of gears and send bits away for shotpeening and ISF refinishing

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Edited by EVO-00X, 22 June 2011 - 03:38 PM.

[DOUGMO]

bloody awesome rob, just check the lsd for cracks before you fit it, on the case.
it was a common problem in them-The one I had to fit into my box was no good so Im trying to source another now. hopefully this one is ok.

[Evo-00x]

Thanks for the heads up George. Can you show me on one of the pics Ive posted above the area I should be looking at?

[evopwr]

Good choice on the 4spider diff rob! Custom job or from USA?

[Evo-00x]

Alex, a friend in NZ had a few made up and I was lucky enough to be offered the spare for purchase. All I had to do was grab a couple extra spider gears locally from a broken GSR box to complete the 4-spider centre diff

[DOUGMO]

in the areas of your first and second pics rob, near the holes and cast.

it may be fine but have a decent look.


ps: bastard - I hope I can find another

[Evo-00x]

Thanks to Simon from SA who supplied me with a spare EVO III gearbox which arrived today. [notice I cleaned it up Simon? lol]
I got it a bit cheaper due to it having a damaged bellhousing but I have a spare GSR bellhousing I might use instead, unless I get another Evo bellhousing in the meantime.
So far this box will get the Ralliart LSD and 4-spider centre installed, along with new syncros and bearings and some special treatment done to the gears and shafts. There'll be more coming with a different gear ratio spread, torrington bearing centre diff upgrade, new seal kit and new 1/2 hub and slider, keys and springs. Will also assemble it with tighter bearing preloads to reduce tolerance and movement when the gearbox heats up with use.
Its also getting the GSR 3.545 crownwheel and output pinion installed to match my rear diff ratio (Evo LSD with GSR 3.545 ratio crownwheel and pinion out back). The end result should be a stronger more reliable streetable gearbox without going down the dogbox route.

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Edited by EVO-00X, 22 June 2011 - 03:49 PM.