731 replies to this topic

[steve]

Maybe - it was #2 and #3 that bent rods after the hydraulic lock, not #4. If they are going to crack/snap, it seems #4 is where it happens, regardless of the history of the crank. Rob Barac has cracked a few 7 bolt cranks through journal #4, and I now know of one other that has gone the same way. Maybe there's an oil deficiency up that end (though it's hardly a big issue, considering the small number that have failed). Have the ones you've seen with cracks in them been through #4 journal?

[Evo-00x]

Rob Barac: "...make sure you get it crack tested before you do anything, they are prone to crack in the undercut radius on the 4th journal, if it isnt already cracked, then its happy days. Make sure you get it crack tested, they can still be cracked from factory, I have seen it before. We micro polished all of the counter weights, then nitrited the crank, after 2 years of racing it it finaly cracked so I put in a completly standard one (after getting it nitrited) and ran it another 2 years. It cracked in the same spot too, so I ended up buying an eagle crank (still a 2 litre) and ran it for another 3 years... in early 06 I went the 2.4 with the eagle bottom end and have been running it since..."

I'm pretty sure I'm not going to be giving it 900hp worth of repetitive abuse and hard launches lol Steve's must have had an underlying issue after the previous engine failure (bent rods) that wasnt picked up on and it probably shouldnt have been reused knowing its history. It's easy to say that now in hindsight though. If any of us are looking to build a dedicated drag engine Rob's experience proves that its best to step up to a billet Eagle item for example

[steve]

Yep, that about sums it up - my case was definitely not the norm. I did consider going an eagle crank after mine cracked, and it turns out they're actually pretty cheap - I was quoted under a grand for a 2L crank (and apparently they were a little more expensive than the stroker ones, due to less demand). The dollar was a lot better at the time though. One downside to going down that route, is that the finish on the eagle cranks isn't too crash hot - you end up spending quite a bit on them getting prepped before installation (though in the scheme of things, probably isn't any more expensive than getting a standard crank balanced / lightened / polished / nitrided / etc).

[Evo-00x]

My AWD coupe kicked over yesterday and started - WOOOHOOO!!!

[SIVART]

you must be stoked, its a good feeling when it fires up

[DOUGMO]

awesome rob

[Dean]

My AWD coupe kicked over yesterday and started - WOOOHOOO!!!

OMG!! CONGRATS!!
after how many years?
whats next Rob? run in, then tune?

[Evo-00x]

8 years in the making and I've just got my bestest Xmas present ever by knowing the car is alive!! Matt at the Hitman sends me SMS updates on how things are going - hows that for customer service! The guy is a legend. Finished it off for me and got it up and running in 3 days! Now he has to sort out the tune for EPA /RTA emissions testing next week which I'm gonna need to provide to the engineer who is certifying the AWD coupe. Still have some engineering and ADR things to sort out but should be on the road first half of next year

Heres some more pics and have a pair of Whiteline front and rear strut braces too The fender bars were fully bolted up to the strut area after the pic was taken lol

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

Edited by EVO-00X, 19 October 2011 - 10:57 AM.

[ENGINR]

Congrats Rob! I knew how excited I was when my motor fired up after 12 months of building it up on weekends, but I would have no idea of how you're feeling after 8 years!!!

[steve]

Congrats man

[bazeng]

Good stuff mate!!!

Get us some video's ASAP!!!

[Evo-00x]

Thanks guys Unfortunately the 280 cams are gonna have to come out and stock cams and 510cc injectors put back in for tuning and emissions testing as we have to make sure its 100% OK to pass before certification. Thats OK though as it will be good to wear the motor in first and have a nice low power / smooth idle ride to start with lol

[EVL20T]

When we goin up to check it out Rob?? i want to be there when they do the tuning on the dyno

[GSRSOL]

awesome!! I wish i was in your position

[ENGINR]

Yeah what's going on with your car Dan?

[Evo-00x]

awesome!! I wish i was in your position

You might be in another 7 years! lol

[steve]

Did you think (or talk to Matt) about going through the emissions testing on E85? Apparently makes it very easy to pass.

[Evo-00x]

I just spoke to him then. He reckons its idling at 1100-1200rpm at the moment with the 280 cams in it and from the smell of things it might just pass. I think he's going to take it there as is Were a few little things to fix up like a better earth connection, a slight fuel leak at the hoses to the tank which has now been fixed, also a small oil leak near where the oil lines are to the oil cooler. Small things thank fuk.

[Evo-00x]

Some more piccies

These are pics of the Magnus intake and a modified billet 70mm throttle body. I've also included some fueling components like the Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator and a beautiful billet Holley fuel rail which I bought off Jeff from Turbotrix in the States off his 9 second DSM at the time I had to get it polished of course lol

Because the fuel tank sat dormant for years with a little bit of fuel in it, the thing developed some internal crud and corrosion and needed to be acid washed, prepped and recoated. The KBS fuel tank repair kit was awesome!!! It came out like brand new inside with a whole new protective coat

The fuel injectors were bought a while back from Precision Turbo. They are a 6 hole sprayer ball and seat design and 880cc in size. Apparently they spray a fine mist which is supposed to be beneficial for fuel burning. The fuel injector itself is a Delphi I believe and therefore will need to ensure that they run at an appropriate duty cycle to spray effectively.

I've thrown in more Earls fittings and hoses after the below pic was taken. These things are damn expensive and a pain in the butt when you buy something and realise you cant use it or dont need it. All up I think theres about $1500 worth of Earls fittings and lines which looking back now really wasnt required and a bit overkill. On the other hand it serves a purpose and looks the goods

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

Edited by EVO-00X, 11 December 2008 - 09:02 AM.

[Evo-00x]

I originally planned to ditch the ignition leads and factory coils and use a 300M Buschur Racing coil on plug ignition coil setup instead, but that didnt eventuate. I was disappointed to find out that my coupe bonnet wouldnt close with them on . After a bit of asking around and advice from Steve (T4G resident whore and Micks Mortorsport ambassador) and seeing Adrian's setup (The Godfather), I decided to get some LS1 coils with built in ignitors (Haltech coils). Tuners love them as they are very easy to work with and have a decent 6ms charge time

Next dilemma was how the hell am I going to mount them? I went out and bought some 3mm alloy flat bar and tubing and got busy making up a bracket for the coils to mount on the firewall. In the end a stainless M6 threaded rod and nyloc nuts finished it off.

Ah what the hell, lets make a bracket up for the fuel filter and Haltech idle stepper motor as well whilst we're at it!!! lol

A bit of elbow grease and some time spent polishing and you reap the awards of good honest labour

The 3 bar MAP sensor fitted perfectly at the end of the bracket too!

Things were starting to take shape and all the time and effort poured into the project were finally piecing together bit by bit

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 
• 
•