731 replies to this topic

[Evo-00x]

Fkn asscunt poopdragon muthrfukr gremlins!!! Discovered a couple of things today that are going to stall me... grrr...

1. The bloody S90 throttle body whistles when the engine is on from idle to about 2500rpm. Its a high pitch whistle like a jet engine sitting on a runway and about to take off, then fades away as you give it some more throttle lol Im not using the ISC and therefore am using a block off plate with oem rubber o-ring to seal the base of the throttle body, but it shouldnt be the cause.
Did a search on the inter-web and found out that its not an isolated issue with S90, BBK or other OEM or aftermarket throttle bodies apparently. To fix it some guys have chamfered about a mm off the sharp edges off the holes which are the entry points to the ISC (see pic). Will give it a go to see if it works because it is quite annoying and loud.

2. Installed the new Competition Clutch forged clutch fork and pivot ball into the gearbox but ran into a problem when adjusting the clutch - It doesnt feel like its getting full pedal travel to the floor and stops about 1cm off where it should. Also have a brand new slave cylinder fitted as well as a bit of an overhaul with the new gearbox rebuild. However, when I got underneath the car and my brother pumped the clutch pedal to help me bleed it, I noticed that the back of the fork just touches the bellhousing and stops the pedal from going all the way down. aarrrghhhh I thought with the new parts the pivot ball wouldnt need shimming but when dealing with aftermarket clutch kits and flyheels they are never the same height as OEM, therefore you need to adjust where the pivot point of the clutch fork is going to be in relation to the step or thickness of the pressure plate (see Jacks video below). I checked Jacks Transmissions video and it confirms that my fork sits to the left of the centre. Fknassmutherfukrcunthead. i dont think I can unscrew the pivot ball out a bit to slide a 2-3mm "C" washer in but I'll give it a shot rather than have to pull the gearbox off the engine again

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[ENGINR]

Shitbastardfacecockheadmuthafucka.

I know your pain Rob - it's the old "two steps forward, four steps back and a skip to the left" scenario. Stick with it mate!

Edited by ENGINR, 01 April 2013 - 11:25 PM.

[Evo-00x]

I know. I took an extra day off work this long weekend to have it ready and back on the road. I spent fuk all time with the kids this Easter long weekend too. I feel guilty as shit
Going outside to see what I can do today. Thems the trials and tribulations of owning modified cars unfortunately.

[jack be nimble]

With the whistling. maybe tape the holes temporarily to find the culprit. if you aren't using the cold start and isc then you can just block the ports with epoxy

[EVL20T]

Yeh we were thinking of getting them alloy filled but 1 of the holes has the BISS screw ported in

[jack be nimble]

Oh yea..duh!
So there is no hole in the throttle blade to negate the biss?

Edited by jack of all, 02 April 2013 - 03:26 AM.

[Evo-00x]

Dont need the biss screw, the Haltech controls the idle
Well back to disassembling the engine bay again today. Got within a bees doodle of dropping the gearbox out but I need some help from my brother tomorrow [please].
Its in there like a loose tooth wobbling around with a jack under it and a jack under the engine to hold the load and kept them horizontal without load on the input shaft.
I havent really tried taking my gearbox out from underneath before as I've always lifted the engine and box out together. Suppose there's always a first for my own car lol. Still takes time though.

[EVL20T]

What time do you finish work tomorrow?? let me know coz I will leave early if need be

[bazeng]

That sucks, i know your pain.

I tried making a tool to remove the pivot ball with the box on, very difficult.

To do it easily, we would have to grind or cut out a bit of the alloy around the window. This would allow for the spanner to be able to turn effectively.

It is easy to drop the box. No need for engine out.

[Evo-00x]

Its easy to remove gearbox in a VR4 from underneath but not so easy in a GSR/EVO.
The rear gearbox mount on the crossmember (the one under the firewall) hits the K-frame when trying to remove the gearbox and you have to take off that gearbox bracket too.
It sucks alright. Just to get to take the box out you have to drop the zorst, the transfer case and intercooler piping etc.

Spent some more $$ on Speedflow fittings and hoses today. Please, if anybody is going to buy these types of fittings in future I highly recommend the SPEEDFLOW brand.
I actually had a good look at them today and compared them to Earls, Proflow (PFE), Summit Racing, Russell and other generic brands Ive used in the past.
Oher brand female fittings are loose as all fuk with a lot of play straight out of the box. You have to hold them in place to seat properly before doing them up. After removing and screwing them back on a few times they loosen up and leak. A total waste of time and money buying other brands please take my word for it (although I havent had an issue with Earls, they are much more expensive and not worth the rediculous price). And nope, I wasnt mixing up different brand connections to eachother either as I was using PFE for my oil lines and Earls for my engine bay fuel and water/turbo lines, and Speedflow for my hard fuel lines. But after today I'm fukin off the crap PFE oil line shit and changing them over to Speedflow instead Speedflow feel more solid when mating together and they have a nice flush and precise seal as youre tightening them up right from the start. Lateral play and movement in the female connections are the best I've come across out of all the brands. They are Aussie made too (about 1.5 hours north from where I live) and you can easily pick up the phone and talk to one of their reps immediately if you have any questions or need something custom made to suit. They get the thumbs up from me

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Edited by EVO-00X, 28 April 2013 - 02:23 AM.

[ONPSI]

Rob.. you need to harden up mate..pulling the box out underneath is easy...when you've done it about a million times I think i put the gearbox on and off the gsr pretty close to ten times before i sold it.

[ENGINR]

Speedflow all the way here on the Coupe too Rob. I've got 4 ProFlow Fittings for my oil cooler lines but everything else in the car is Speedflow. I'll do my brakelines using -3AN Speedflow stainless fittings and hose too.

[Evo-00x]

lol... if only I had a hoist and a transmission jack it would have made our jobs easier. But now that the box is in I can finish putting the rest back in over the weekend.
Ive done plenty of conversions and spent thousands of hours working on cars. Now that my health has deteriorated Im getting really tired and losing patience with it.
I think thats what happens when you get older (39)

Anyway, Mik-e came around tonight and we put the box back on, this time with a 3mm shim under the pivot ball.
Now it's sitting smack bang in the middle. Should give me more pedal height and travel now.
I suppose when you use an aftermarket clutch fork, clutch kit and flywheel the pivot ball height is never going to be perfect for every package.
Regardless of the build, 3mm shims for every gearbox build from now on and then double checking it as soon as its mounted onto the block lol

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[Evo-00x]

Guys with an aftermarket idle control system who are planning to use an S90 throttle body with a block off plate under it (instead of using the factory idle stepper system), please be aware that the S90 will whistle/screech loudly as air flows past these 2 little slots at idle to about 3000rpm. It will scare the shit out of you the first time you kick the car over as it sounds like a valvetrain issue lol.

At first I tried chamfering an angle on the 2 little slots but it only just quietened the whistle slightly and it was still unbearably loud!
Next step was to whip out the TIG, fiill the 2 small holes in about 3-5mm deep and finish it back with a carbide bit, sandpaper and polish.
As a safety precaution, I filled the rest of the void under the 2 holes with metal filler, then put the block off plate back on.
Cranked it over and the whistle problem is now solved!!!

PS: You dont need to fill the other large single slot on the other side of the butterfly if you still intend to keep the block off plate on.

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Edited by EVO-00X, 26 April 2013 - 12:16 PM.

[bazeng]

You should have kept it whistling and told people it was super charged...

Was the noise that loud???

[EVL20T]

Yes it was very loud and annoying lol

[Evo-00x]

Yeah it was really loud and annoying Baz. Imagine driving your car with the brake pads worn down to metal on metal and screeching constantly at idle.
No better yet, imagine its a freight train with squealing brakes instead because it was fuk loud!! lol

[Evo-00x]

Got some new parts delivered today .
GVR4 and EVO I-III oil dispticks, a new EVO III clutch master cylinder and an aircon bracket lol
As my block is a 6-block GVR4 and my brothers engine is a 7-bolt EVO, I wanted to compare the difference between a GVR4 vs EVO dipstick as they had different part numbers.
The EVO dipstick MD306345 is 5mm SHORTER than the GVR4 dipstick MD127058.
Here's some piccies

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Edited by EVO-00X, 17 March 2014 - 10:58 AM.

[EVL20T]

You mean guys using vr4 dipsticks in their evo engine arnt using enough oil? Lol

[bazeng]

Question is, are the dipstick tubes the same length?

Gvr4 tube + evo dipstick = not enough oil.
Evo tube + Gvr4 dipstick = too much oil.

Unless tubes are the same and the difference is in the block?

Great find though. I've always wondered about my one.