37 replies to this topic

[JAP63]

i've sinced put some external star washers on and the problem has vanished and i've done a few *jumps* too

like a 2 face fan lock washer? theyre quite good..

[to4garret]

like this



however i did consider these,



but i wanted something that would actually bite into the alloy to help prevent movement

[JAP63]

Yeah them fanlock, or Nord-Lock washers are good, they will bite into the alloy though.....could be good and bad i spose.

I was thinking if i ever get anything with a lower foot thats alloy, i might try and see how a big thick alloy washer goes, just turn one up on the lathe...that way, its sacrificial, and if its wide enough Not too wide/big though), it should spread the load and and give good clamp..


The only other thing id be worried about, and not to get tooo tech, but i wonder how the alloy goes in terms of fracture after years of stress reversal, could it become weak and fail in a brittle manner?
They say its 6061 or whatever grade, thats supposedly aircraft grade, but even aircraft stuff has a service limit.

[rob323]

I was thinking if i ever get anything with a lower foot thats alloy, i might try and see how a big thick alloy washer goes, just turn one up on the lathe...that way, its sacrificial, and if its wide enough Not too wide/big though), it should spread the load and and give good clamp..

Don't use alloy, it will just deflect and not give you the surface area you want. I used large (probably 40OD x 4mm thick) steel washers (ex gemini shocks) on the set of G4's I put in BennyG's car.

The only other thing id be worried about, and not to get tooo tech, but i wonder how the alloy goes in terms of fracture after years of stress reversal, could it become weak and fail in a brittle manner?

Haven't you done tensile stress testing at Uni yet? Aluminium doesn't work harden like steel, it yields then it fractures, it gives no warning, unlike steel.

They say its 6061 or whatever grade, thats supposedly aircraft grade, but even aircraft stuff has a service limit.

Woop de do , yes that is a structural alloy for aluminium extrusion but they give no temper rating. If it's not tempered/ aged, it is soft as shit.
http://en.wikipedia....i/6061_aluminum

[JAP63]

Don't use alloy, it will just deflect and not give you the surface area you want. I used large (probably 40OD x 4mm thick) steel washers (ex gemini shocks) on the set of G4's I put in BennyG's car.


Haven't you done tensile stress testing at Uni yet? Aluminium doesn't work harden like steel, it yields then it fractures, it gives no warning, unlike steel.

Woop de do , yes that is a structural alloy for aluminium extrusion but they give no temper rating. If it's not tempered/ aged, it is soft as shit.
http://en.wikipedia....i/6061_aluminum

Good point on the washers, they probably would deflect if not thick enough...

Yeah ive done some material stuff...I meant the same thing as what your saying.... but what im specifically saying is that alloys usually fail in a brittle fashion....steel usually deforms plastic beyond its yield point....but since the alloy is usually more brittle in nature, it wont deform plasticly at all (like you said), instead, it will likely cleavage fail...and yes, fracture without warning.

Not a nice thought, having your lower leg look ok one day, then shear the next..though im only speculating...who knows how good the alloy is..

Maybe its not tempered, so it is less brittle and less prone to cleavage/fracture failure, remember tempered stuff will be harder/stronger, but less ductile too, which equals bigger chance of brittle failure...agree?
It realy does come down to the alloying composite, which is way beyond me at the momnet and i got no idea on tempering 6061 alloy and the phases and solid solutions it would create.

Getting tech here Rob!

Edited by JAP63, 30 January 2009 - 10:07 AM.

[EVL20T]

Awesome, I might have to do the same on my K Sports

[JAP63]

Awesome, I might have to do the same on my K Sports

You have K-Sports in your coupe?

How they go? and..
Whats the lowering range like?

[EVL20T]

They are nice and stiff

i have the Version RR Damper System

http://www.ksportusa...product_id=cd06

They lower alot, here are the same type on my mates CC Coupe with 19s, i dunno what the ride is like when they are set that low though, im never gona try it

http://i178.photobuc...19062008301.jpg

http://img114.images...1331/003mo0.jpg

http://img371.images...4773/018la5.jpg

[JAP63]

Jeezuz, ok, obviously he dont drive around like that but shit, yeah i get the idea..if you rekon these are Ok, i might look into them, the RR are better than the Kontrol Pro then?, also, who did you get them thru and cost if you dont mind...

Thanks


Jamie.

[Evo-00x]

Do some research and you'll find that D2 = K-Sport = Hayame = Megan . All manufactured at the same place (Taiwan) but for different companies worldwide - hence the different colour scheme.

[ENGINR]

Dissagree, Theres no difference there between the coefficient of expansion between a steel bolt and a steel washer, theyre both steel...I do no what you mean, however, IMO it wouldnt matter at all, not if the correct torque is used..
A washer is used to spread the load engagement, and if used correctly will not all all effect the positive clamp of the fastner...it just an aid for surface contact...What about old mate with the light blue coupe? ENGINR..lol, hed know, being a mech engineer...getting technical arent we...!

Yep. Too technical for a Sat morning. Wow, coefficients of expansion, there's a term I haven't heard for a while!

Pressure = Force x Area

So by using the specified Torque setting for the bolt you are applying the correct Force and the whole purpose of the washer is to increase the contact Area over which that Force is applied thus giving a greater clamping Pressure.

The whole reason for abiding by correct torque settings is so you don't apply too much lateral load to the bolt and basically stretch it. The contact area is not going to change and there's only going to be so much clamping pressure that you can apply to a join (ie in this instance the strut leg and upright connection will only 'squeeze together' so much before the tensile load in the bolt reaches a point where it goes "SNAP".

[EVL20T]

Jeezuz, ok, obviously he dont drive around like that but shit, yeah i get the idea..if you rekon these are Ok, i might look into them, the RR are better than the Kontrol Pro then?, also, who did you get them thru and cost if you dont mind...

Thanks


Jamie.

Actually he does drive with it being that low lol

Actually i do have the Kontrol Pro not the RR lol, i bought mine 2nd hand off a guy strippin his lancer but any Peders Suspension places can get them as they are the distributers for K Sport in Australia

[JAP63]

Here is an email i just received back from K-Sport....made in australia? and also USA? didnt know that? anyone else?




RE: K sport Kontrol Pro‏
From:Ksport USA ([email protected]) Sent:Thursday, 29 January 2009 2:49:47 AMTo: 'jamie james' ([email protected])



.ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P{padding-right:0px;padding-left:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-top:0px;}.ExternalClass BODY.EC_hmmessage{font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}

dyno figures change with every application and every version of each appliation, with RR kits and drift and circuit pro kits the dyno sheets are included with the kit.

origin is either US, taiwan or australia for the kit, depends on the kit and production time.

Thanks,
Nick J.
Ksport Suspension Company
[email protected]

Please visit us on the web at www.ksportusa.com

*Please include original message(s) when responding*

From: jamie james [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 6:06 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: K sport Kontrol Pro

Hello there.
I was wondering if you can provide shock dyno figures for the K-Sport Kontrol Pro dampers?
And also, is country of origin for production of your damper the United States?

Thankyou

Jamie.

[JAP63]

Yep. Too technical for a Sat morning. Wow, coefficients of expansion, there's a term I haven't heard for a while!

Pressure = Force x Area

So by using the specified Torque setting for the bolt you are applying the correct Force and the whole purpose of the washer is to increase the contact Area over which that Force is applied thus giving a greater clamping Pressure.

The whole reason for abiding by correct torque settings is so you don't apply too much lateral load to the bolt and basically stretch it. The contact area is not going to change and there's only going to be so much clamping pressure that you can apply to a join (ie in this instance the strut leg and upright connection will only 'squeeze together' so much before the tensile load in the bolt reaches a point where it goes "SNAP".

I love the shit you learn with a higher education, and I'm only 2nd year..Rob Davies is one to know this shit too, Rob your about 18 months ahead of where I'm at now..fukn part time study take forever, but at lest i got an evo to show 4 it ...even if it has panzy wheels, hey Rob..

[6III]

D2 Coilovers = CRAP CRAP CRAP

[Liberoz]

origin is either US, taiwan or australia for the kit

Ksport shocks are all made in Taiwan.

Ksport doesn't have a production facility either in The US or Australia to manufacture their coilovers, I know as I had fitment issues with the kit they sold me as It was listed for the CD5W Libero GT and what do you know there rears didn't fit took months of emails phone calls to Ksport Aust Brookvale (he's just a reseller basically)

Then HQ Tawain and the rear shocks are still not fitted after 8 months of head aches Taiwan or Australia were very hard to deal with for the kit sending out different springs and also rated bolts that eventually i could use the springs at least.

They never ended up suppling the correct length shocks and I gave up after so long smashing my head against a brick wall with the Aussie distrubutor in Brookvale Sydney and then dealing directly with the Manufactoring plant in Taiwan.

After their two special deliveries from HQ only to get the correct springs and bolts for the height adjusting part, the shocks are still sitting in the box they came in,
Ksport Taiwan ended up emailing me a spec sheet for me to design my own........ I was shocked as they said they would make them specially as per my specs supplied and that would be the end of their service.

I'm no susspension expert and how do i know how to specify shock length travel ect. thats their job to do the R&D before they list shocks for a specif model, not the consumer after they have purchased what they say is the model specific shocks.

In my case The (CD5W)LiberoGT has a compleately different rear shock set up (No IRS) so this was just a CD5W issue.
I know of pleanty of people that have bought sedan sets for Mitsu's and haven't had any issues, thats just my luck owning a car thats a minority rather than the majority

End of vent

[Liberoz]

D2 Coilovers = CRAP CRAP CRAP

are alsoi made by the same manufacturing plant in taiwan as Ksport just different anodising and stockers is the only difference.

I'm not sure weather its still listed on their web site BUT IT STATES (in the application to be a distributor document)
You cannot state Ksport are made in the same factory as other brands G4 and a couple of others ect.

Go figure that great marketing strategy on a public web page.

[cblancergsr]

a mate of mine had trouble getting ksports too fit a ae82 corolla he ended up giving in and getting teins