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Dion's EVO2

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192 replies to this topic

#141
Evo-00x

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Oh, look for water leaking at the turbo water lines as well.
AWD. 2 Litre. GTX3076R 0.82.
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.

372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET

#142
MDK87

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Note: Dont use CHEMIWELD!! it'll fuk something else up.


Eek, lol. Lucky you chimed in Rob. :P

#143
dvscoupe

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Sorry I forgot to also mention that the idle is really rough.

It sounds like a WRX :(

Sounds to be running on 3 cylinders :(

There is no water in the oil but that doesn't mean it's not leaking though. I have not done the bypass on the heater core but there is no signs of brown dirty water in the passenger or drivers side floors.

I would never use Chemiweld.

I will look at doing the bypass tomorrow night when I get home

Passenger Floor
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Drivers Floor
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#144
Dean

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Did this happen as soon as you changed the hoses?
It could just be you're radiator releasing the excess air from the system.
You should let it idle for about 5-10mins to remove bubbles.
The foam I have no explanation for...
4G93T No More

#145
dvscoupe

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No this was not straight after the hoses as they where replaced yesterday.

There is a bolt that you remove to bleed the cooling system which I have done time and time again and never had issues.

This happened after replacing the last hose that I had to replace. I beleive that each weak link has been letting go as time goes by but now that everything is new and replaced the last thing left is the head gasket.

I'm hoping it's not but if it is so be it

Turbo blown water seals possible??

#146
Evo-00x

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Have you re-torqued your headbolts in the meantime?
If you arent seeing lost water on the ground or hearing any hissing sounds coming from hoses, welsh plugs, heater core, radiator, turbo etc after shutting the engine off at temeperature then its looking more and more like water getting into one of the the cylinder bores.

Remove all 4 spark plug tips and see if one looks totally different to the others. IF it is leaking into the cylinder bore then DO NOT use anytihng like radiator stop leak or Chemi-weld etc. It'll be time for you to get the head reco'd now as half of your engine build. Then later save up $$ to do the bottom end and you really wouldnt need to touch the head again later :)
AWD. 2 Litre. GTX3076R 0.82.
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.

372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET

#147
dvscoupe

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I have not checked the head bolts. I was of the understanding that these head bolts can not be re-torqued once set?

Where can I find specs on the head bolts and I will double check them

#148
MDK87

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Good question. I thought the 7 bolt engines had TTY headbolts?

#149
Evo-00x

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Are they ARP torque to yield (you'll find a star-shaped nut in place of the stock head bolt) or are they stock Mitsu head bolts? There's nothing wrong with checking the stock headbolt torque when the engine is stone cold mate (important) and in your case I recommend it because with the engine dramas you've been having its worth checking if thats your problem.

You have two ways to check pretty much. Either see if they all have 90-100Nm torque on them; or torque at 20Nm, then 1/4 turn, then another 1/4 turn in sequence. If you find the headbolts were loose then its a good possibility that its the cause of the water leak problem and pray that your head isnt warped. Only thing you could do is re-torque them and see if it effects the water leak somewhat. If it eases or stops the leak then immediately start saving for a new h/g and head recondition in the meantime and dont get up your engine anymore or run it into hot temps again until the reco is done!
AWD. 2 Litre. GTX3076R 0.82.
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.

372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET

#150
BMGTZ

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replied on evo coupe

BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally

I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.

 

 


#151
CLuTZ

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If you cooked it, then it's highly likely that the headgasket it fried. Get a leakdown test done....!

#152
dvscoupe

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I took the car down the workshop once again...

They did a leak down test for me and found that it would lose all but all pressure after about 7-10 minutes which we found 1 suspect hose and 1 that appeared to have been leaking in the past. Which I will fix tonight. I thought I had got them all but these are the 2 last.

BUT

The brand new radiator cap I had bought only hold about 5-6psi before releasing pressure.

What they have said is that due to the dodgy cap releasing pressure above 5-6 psi it was basically bleeding the system each time I drove it and the release I videoed was a large hot spot / air pocket which was venting off when I pulled the cap off.

The hoses will be replaced tonight and I have a spare radiator cap which is going on the car.

Compression was still good today and all the brand new plugs appeared to be in good condition.

#153
GSR-747

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When the engine is warm, put 4 long thin tipped screwdrivers or simelar into the freezer, then remove the spark plugs, put the screw drivers into the spark plug holes for about 1/2 a minute, then pull them out, if they have formed condensation there is a good chance there is water entering the combustion chamber for that cylinder.
You are correct in how you are continuing to replace weak links in the system, the headgasket is possibly one of them and keep a good eye on the heater core as it is probly the other one..
Good Luck with it.

1977 RA28 Toyota Celica
1993 Lancer GSR


Problems are solved by concentrating on what is right not who is right.


#154
dvscoupe

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I have replaced even more hoses tonight.

The first hose below is the top hose for the turbo. When I pulled it off it fell into 3 pieces.

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Then I replaced the bottom hose, what an absolute prick :(

anyway when it finally popped off I loved the face full of mud i got

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Whilst it was all apart I had a look at the turbo and yup it's fkd.

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Here is are the photos of the hose I replaced on the weekend to the throttle body

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Anyway here are some last pics of the hoses I have replaced

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#155
SIVART

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its going to be a minter when you finish, Ive done the same to my vr4

#156
GSRSOL

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bloody hell! this car mustve been neglected majorly! great job of getting everything sorted - i know my patience would be wearing thin right about now!!
Dan | Melbourne | 1994 CD5A / CE9A / E39A bastard child
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors


#157
dvscoupe

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cheers guys it has been very tough and it's almost broke me on more than one occassion

Latest is the new radiator cap is buggered

#158
SIVART

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you should go a asi radiator. Ive been tempted myself

#159
dvscoupe

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Radiator has already been replaced :)

#160
MDK87

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When the engine is warm, put 4 long thin tipped screwdrivers or simelar into the freezer, then remove the spark plugs, put the screw drivers into the spark plug holes for about 1/2 a minute, then pull them out, if they have formed condensation there is a good chance there is water entering the combustion chamber for that cylinder.


Smart thinking! :)


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