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Dion's EVO2
Started by dvscoupe, May 01 2009 04:07 PM
#141
Posted 27 September 2009 - 12:43 PM
Oh, look for water leaking at the turbo water lines as well.
AWD. 2 Litre. GTX3076R 0.82.
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
#142
Posted 27 September 2009 - 12:45 PM
Note: Dont use CHEMIWELD!! it'll fuk something else up.
Eek, lol. Lucky you chimed in Rob.
#143
Posted 27 September 2009 - 12:52 PM
Sorry I forgot to also mention that the idle is really rough.
It sounds like a WRX
Sounds to be running on 3 cylinders
There is no water in the oil but that doesn't mean it's not leaking though. I have not done the bypass on the heater core but there is no signs of brown dirty water in the passenger or drivers side floors.
I would never use Chemiweld.
I will look at doing the bypass tomorrow night when I get home
Passenger Floor
Drivers Floor
It sounds like a WRX
Sounds to be running on 3 cylinders
There is no water in the oil but that doesn't mean it's not leaking though. I have not done the bypass on the heater core but there is no signs of brown dirty water in the passenger or drivers side floors.
I would never use Chemiweld.
I will look at doing the bypass tomorrow night when I get home
Passenger Floor
Drivers Floor
#144
Posted 27 September 2009 - 12:59 PM
Did this happen as soon as you changed the hoses?
It could just be you're radiator releasing the excess air from the system.
You should let it idle for about 5-10mins to remove bubbles.
The foam I have no explanation for...
It could just be you're radiator releasing the excess air from the system.
You should let it idle for about 5-10mins to remove bubbles.
The foam I have no explanation for...
4G93T No More
#145
Posted 27 September 2009 - 01:05 PM
No this was not straight after the hoses as they where replaced yesterday.
There is a bolt that you remove to bleed the cooling system which I have done time and time again and never had issues.
This happened after replacing the last hose that I had to replace. I beleive that each weak link has been letting go as time goes by but now that everything is new and replaced the last thing left is the head gasket.
I'm hoping it's not but if it is so be it
Turbo blown water seals possible??
There is a bolt that you remove to bleed the cooling system which I have done time and time again and never had issues.
This happened after replacing the last hose that I had to replace. I beleive that each weak link has been letting go as time goes by but now that everything is new and replaced the last thing left is the head gasket.
I'm hoping it's not but if it is so be it
Turbo blown water seals possible??
#146
Posted 27 September 2009 - 01:25 PM
Have you re-torqued your headbolts in the meantime?
If you arent seeing lost water on the ground or hearing any hissing sounds coming from hoses, welsh plugs, heater core, radiator, turbo etc after shutting the engine off at temeperature then its looking more and more like water getting into one of the the cylinder bores.
Remove all 4 spark plug tips and see if one looks totally different to the others. IF it is leaking into the cylinder bore then DO NOT use anytihng like radiator stop leak or Chemi-weld etc. It'll be time for you to get the head reco'd now as half of your engine build. Then later save up $$ to do the bottom end and you really wouldnt need to touch the head again later
If you arent seeing lost water on the ground or hearing any hissing sounds coming from hoses, welsh plugs, heater core, radiator, turbo etc after shutting the engine off at temeperature then its looking more and more like water getting into one of the the cylinder bores.
Remove all 4 spark plug tips and see if one looks totally different to the others. IF it is leaking into the cylinder bore then DO NOT use anytihng like radiator stop leak or Chemi-weld etc. It'll be time for you to get the head reco'd now as half of your engine build. Then later save up $$ to do the bottom end and you really wouldnt need to touch the head again later
AWD. 2 Litre. GTX3076R 0.82.
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
#147
Posted 27 September 2009 - 01:31 PM
I have not checked the head bolts. I was of the understanding that these head bolts can not be re-torqued once set?
Where can I find specs on the head bolts and I will double check them
Where can I find specs on the head bolts and I will double check them
#148
Posted 27 September 2009 - 02:05 PM
#149
Posted 27 September 2009 - 02:07 PM
Are they ARP torque to yield (you'll find a star-shaped nut in place of the stock head bolt) or are they stock Mitsu head bolts? There's nothing wrong with checking the stock headbolt torque when the engine is stone cold mate (important) and in your case I recommend it because with the engine dramas you've been having its worth checking if thats your problem.
You have two ways to check pretty much. Either see if they all have 90-100Nm torque on them; or torque at 20Nm, then 1/4 turn, then another 1/4 turn in sequence. If you find the headbolts were loose then its a good possibility that its the cause of the water leak problem and pray that your head isnt warped. Only thing you could do is re-torque them and see if it effects the water leak somewhat. If it eases or stops the leak then immediately start saving for a new h/g and head recondition in the meantime and dont get up your engine anymore or run it into hot temps again until the reco is done!
You have two ways to check pretty much. Either see if they all have 90-100Nm torque on them; or torque at 20Nm, then 1/4 turn, then another 1/4 turn in sequence. If you find the headbolts were loose then its a good possibility that its the cause of the water leak problem and pray that your head isnt warped. Only thing you could do is re-torque them and see if it effects the water leak somewhat. If it eases or stops the leak then immediately start saving for a new h/g and head recondition in the meantime and dont get up your engine anymore or run it into hot temps again until the reco is done!
AWD. 2 Litre. GTX3076R 0.82.
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
#150
Posted 27 September 2009 - 03:48 PM
replied on evo coupe
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#151
Posted 27 September 2009 - 09:30 PM
If you cooked it, then it's highly likely that the headgasket it fried. Get a leakdown test done....!
#152
Posted 28 September 2009 - 03:47 AM
I took the car down the workshop once again...
They did a leak down test for me and found that it would lose all but all pressure after about 7-10 minutes which we found 1 suspect hose and 1 that appeared to have been leaking in the past. Which I will fix tonight. I thought I had got them all but these are the 2 last.
BUT
The brand new radiator cap I had bought only hold about 5-6psi before releasing pressure.
What they have said is that due to the dodgy cap releasing pressure above 5-6 psi it was basically bleeding the system each time I drove it and the release I videoed was a large hot spot / air pocket which was venting off when I pulled the cap off.
The hoses will be replaced tonight and I have a spare radiator cap which is going on the car.
Compression was still good today and all the brand new plugs appeared to be in good condition.
They did a leak down test for me and found that it would lose all but all pressure after about 7-10 minutes which we found 1 suspect hose and 1 that appeared to have been leaking in the past. Which I will fix tonight. I thought I had got them all but these are the 2 last.
BUT
The brand new radiator cap I had bought only hold about 5-6psi before releasing pressure.
What they have said is that due to the dodgy cap releasing pressure above 5-6 psi it was basically bleeding the system each time I drove it and the release I videoed was a large hot spot / air pocket which was venting off when I pulled the cap off.
The hoses will be replaced tonight and I have a spare radiator cap which is going on the car.
Compression was still good today and all the brand new plugs appeared to be in good condition.
#153
Posted 28 September 2009 - 09:31 AM
When the engine is warm, put 4 long thin tipped screwdrivers or simelar into the freezer, then remove the spark plugs, put the screw drivers into the spark plug holes for about 1/2 a minute, then pull them out, if they have formed condensation there is a good chance there is water entering the combustion chamber for that cylinder.
You are correct in how you are continuing to replace weak links in the system, the headgasket is possibly one of them and keep a good eye on the heater core as it is probly the other one..
Good Luck with it.
You are correct in how you are continuing to replace weak links in the system, the headgasket is possibly one of them and keep a good eye on the heater core as it is probly the other one..
Good Luck with it.
1977 RA28 Toyota Celica
1993 Lancer GSR
Problems are solved by concentrating on what is right not who is right.
#154
Posted 28 September 2009 - 10:37 AM
I have replaced even more hoses tonight.
The first hose below is the top hose for the turbo. When I pulled it off it fell into 3 pieces.
Then I replaced the bottom hose, what an absolute prick
anyway when it finally popped off I loved the face full of mud i got
Whilst it was all apart I had a look at the turbo and yup it's fkd.
Here is are the photos of the hose I replaced on the weekend to the throttle body
Anyway here are some last pics of the hoses I have replaced
The first hose below is the top hose for the turbo. When I pulled it off it fell into 3 pieces.
Then I replaced the bottom hose, what an absolute prick
anyway when it finally popped off I loved the face full of mud i got
Whilst it was all apart I had a look at the turbo and yup it's fkd.
Here is are the photos of the hose I replaced on the weekend to the throttle body
Anyway here are some last pics of the hoses I have replaced
#155
Posted 28 September 2009 - 11:08 AM
its going to be a minter when you finish, Ive done the same to my vr4
#156
Posted 28 September 2009 - 11:21 AM
bloody hell! this car mustve been neglected majorly! great job of getting everything sorted - i know my patience would be wearing thin right about now!!
Dan | Melbourne | 1994 CD5A / CE9A / E39A bastard child
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors
#157
Posted 28 September 2009 - 11:52 AM
cheers guys it has been very tough and it's almost broke me on more than one occassion
Latest is the new radiator cap is buggered
Latest is the new radiator cap is buggered
#158
Posted 28 September 2009 - 12:21 PM
you should go a asi radiator. Ive been tempted myself
#159
Posted 28 September 2009 - 01:12 PM
#160
Posted 29 September 2009 - 04:20 AM
When the engine is warm, put 4 long thin tipped screwdrivers or simelar into the freezer, then remove the spark plugs, put the screw drivers into the spark plug holes for about 1/2 a minute, then pull them out, if they have formed condensation there is a good chance there is water entering the combustion chamber for that cylinder.
Smart thinking!
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