11 replies to this topic

[Jazz9]

Hi Guys,

What do you guys with the vr4's upgrade the brakes to?

I have a c73a lancer with vr4 RS brakes, slotted rotors all around and EBC greenstuff pads.

I don't have a problem with stopping power, just superheating the rotors and then getting brake fade. I do a fair bit of track work and braking from 210kmhr and 160kmhr once per 55sec lap is a killer.

Do you guys reckon that GTO brakes or evo9 brakes would be better? Is there a custom solution? I guess atleast 4pot fronts would be the go with 300mm+ rotors.

Thanks,

Glen

[GVR40]

have you tried the dba4000 series rotors, they are meant to minimise break fade, or even a set of pads that is designed as more of a track pad. could even change brake fluid to a super dot 4 or dot 5.1

[265T]

in my RS i use standard discs - slotted front & back, removed the backing plates, braided brake lines, DS3000 pads with Motul 660 brake fluid

[rob323]

Agree with the above post for upgrades, in the mean time, ditch the EBC's and get something more track orientated.
Eg. Hawk, QFM, DS2500 or DS3000 etc.

[Jazz9]

Alrighty, I'm getting braided lines and good pads. I'm also making a brace for the brake master, removing the heat shield and trying the run some ducting to the brakes.

Thanks Guys

Glen

[milkandoj]

What type of slotted disks are you running?
The rda's have the conventional strait cooling fins/vents whereas the dba 4000 has the kangaroo paw fins with heaps more surface area to cool inside. So they could be another upgrade still. As gvr40 said.
Plus with the heat indicators you can see how hot you getting and that may help in you pad choice, and also you front/rear bias.

http://www.dba.com.a...ies/default.asp

[biger_Gti]

Hi Guys,

What do you guys with the vr4's upgrade the brakes to?

I have a c73a lancer with vr4 RS brakes, slotted rotors all around and EBC greenstuff pads.

I don't have a problem with stopping power, just superheating the rotors and then getting brake fade. I do a fair bit of track work and braking from 210kmhr and 160kmhr once per 55sec lap is a killer.

Do you guys reckon that GTO brakes or evo9 brakes would be better? Is there a custom solution? I guess atleast 4pot fronts would be the go with 300mm+ rotors.

Thanks,

Glen

GTO restyle Z16A have a 315 mm disc and 4 pot. I test it from 210 km/h to full stop few times and it realy working and not hot.

[GVR40]

What type of slotted disks are you running?
The rda's have the conventional strait cooling fins/vents whereas the dba 4000 has the kangaroo paw fins with heaps more surface area to cool inside. So they could be another upgrade still. As gvr40 said.
Plus with the heat indicators you can see how hot you getting and that may help in you pad choice, and also you front/rear bias.

http://www.dba.com.a...ies/default.asp

all dba discs have the kangaroo paw design, as long as it is vented, solid discs don't obviously.

[VR-4Squid]

when you say brake fade, do you mean the pedal goes soft and mushy, or the pedal is still firm but no stopping is happening?

If the pedal goes soft, that's caused by water in the brake fluid boiling (brake fluid is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture, the older it is the less use it's going to be) - change it ALL for some new good quality fluid (Motul 660)

If the pedal stays firm but braking force is reduced, that's caused by the pads getting too hot (outside their operating range).
Green Stuff's aren't really suitable for the track with a car this heavy.
I'd recommend getting some Carbotech pads from the states - I know several racers who've tried everything under the sun, and swear by them.

[omad]

Greenstuff are recommended for spirited street use or some track for cars under 750kilo. Apparently EBC adjusted their range at some point and brought everything down a notch. Redstuff are now more similar to the old greenstuff and better suited road/race pad. Had no issues with mine and had them red hot to the point of changing the pad colour from red to yellow =P also running with DBA slotted rotors.

[Jonson]

Hydroscopic, not hygroscopic.....
Is a fluid that readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. Once the moisture is in the brake fluid it reduces boiling point dramatically. Also, once the brake fluid starts boiling, it turns into a gas. Gasses compress, liquid doesnt. You don't want the brake fluid compressing, it needs to be direct acting.

[Entaran]

Would I be right in saying this entire thread has been covered at least 6 other times and the search function would've worked better?