38 replies to this topic

[vr4goleta]

hey people
Could someone tell me how to extract fault codes from a VR4, from what i have read i believe that an LED test light is connected between "The Fault Code Output Trigger and Ground Terminals on the Diagnostic Connector." If this is correct could someone tell where these pins are and if i am wrong could someone point me in the right direction.

Basacally i started it today for the first time in a while and as it was warming up the idle suddenly jumped to 2000RPM, check engine light flashed a few times and smoke smelling of electronics burning came out from under dash (drivers side)

I shut it off and checked wiring for burning or signs of heat nothing.
took it for a small drive no more smoke or engine light but could still smell it, and it was running rough while trying to cruise at a set speed yet still pulls hard under WOT. got home and hooked up the timing light but when I earthed the plug on the firewall it died and blew the ignition fuse..

any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks, Logan

[MDK87]

http://www.vfaq.com/...rical/code.html
Damn man.
I hate the smell when you let the magic smoke out of electronics.
Don't pay too much attention to the illustration except the pinout, I think the picture is of a footwell of a US DSM, and don't use an incandescant bulb to retrieve the codes.
Good luck man, let us know how things progress.
PM me if you need help. I have an LED test light that makes doing this a piece of piss and also a datalogger if you need.

[vr4goleta]

sweet thanks for that,
iv got an LED test light at work which ill get monday, or knowing me i'll probably get bored today and make something out an old LED
Thankyou

[turbovr4]

you can also use one of the old analouge multimeters,just set to 12v and watch the needle swing.i think from memory you should have a constant series of even pulses if everything is good.something bad is one long pulse then followed by the code pulses

[vr4goleta]

done. made one out an old LED from an old torch with a resistor and connectors.
1 long 4 short. Throttle Position Sensor. Does any early Mitsubishi share the same TPS that i could just pick up from the wreckers

Thanks heaps "MDK87" and "Turbovr4" This information is really appreciated

[MDK87]

Yeah I'm pretty sure you could even flog one off a Hyundai.
Just take your multimeter with you to double check that it is a 5kohm potentiometer.
Let us know how you go with it.
TPS doesn't sound right for some reason. Well not for the description of the problem you posted in your first post, but who knows aye.

[GVR40]

these are all the cars that came with the same throttle position sensor as us. or you can go to supecheap and they can get one in. part number is TPS-013 and it should be around $115

Make Model Series Other details
Hyundai Excel X2 7/90-7/94, G4DJ 4 Cyl 1.5L
Hyundai Lantra J1 10/90-4/95, G4CR 4 Cyl 1.6L
Hyundai Lantra J1 6/92-4/95, G4CN 4 Cyl 1.8L
Hyundai S Coupe 8/90-11/90, G4DJ 4 Cyl 1.5L SOHC Auto
Hyundai S Coupe 7/90-11/90, G4DJ 4 Cyl 1.5L SOHC Manual
Hyundai Sonata 9/89-6/93, G4CP 4 Cyl 2.0L
Hyundai Sonata 7/90-6/93, G4CS 4 Cyl 2.4L
Hyundai Sonata 7/93-6/98, G4CP 4 Cyl 2.0L
Mitsubishi Galant HH 4/91-11/92, 4G63 4 Cyl 2.0L SOHC
Mitsubishi Galant GSR 4/91-11/92 4G63 4 Cyl 2.0L DOHC
Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 4/91-11/92, 4G63T 4 Cyl 2.0L Turbo
Mitsubishi Lancer CB 4/91-5/92, 4G15 4 Cyl 1.5L
Mitsubishi Lancer GSR 4/91-5/92, 4G61 4 Cyl 1.6L

[vr4goleta]

TPS doesn't sound right for some reason. Well not for the description of the problem you posted in your first post, but who knows aye.

Kind of what I was thinking in regards to the smoke,

possibly an issue with a wire rubbed through somewhere whithin the TPS circuit causing an open circuit or short to ground, which would explain the smoke.

possible the TPS is ok

And thankyou for that info "GVR4O"

[omad]

personally, I'd be stripping the dash/cluster/etc asap to find out where that smell is coming from. Busting an ignition fuse while checking timing is a pretty bloody good effort. Also pull the ecu out and check for leaking caps!

[vr4goleta]

personally, I'd be stripping the dash/cluster/etc asap to find out where that smell is coming from. Busting an ignition fuse while checking timing is a pretty bloody good effort. Also pull the ecu out and check for leaking caps!

might check that out during the week or next weekend (not my daily driver).

as soon as i earthed the plug on the fire wall the idle dropped as it does and then it just died.

[Entaran]

OMG. GVR40 I love you.

Also, vr4goleta... pull your ecu out. Cap damage ftw.

Then pull the cluster out (GENTLYYYYYYY), the shroud comes out BOTTOM FIRST, and don't forget to unscrew the speedo reset button thingy to the left. (anti clockwise), it doesn't pull off.

Back of that may be burnt out.

[vr4goleta]

I checked the ECU at the left of the passengers footwell, that was fine. But when i opened up the ECU in the centre under the AC unit i found this.

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[Entaran]

You have a winner. Climate control module I think

[brisvr4]

Uhoh! that is the transmission computer.
Do you have an auto?

[vr4goleta]

I googled the md number last night and that also said, transmission control unit, but my car is manual, its been frustrating me all day trying to figure out what it would control

[brisvr4]

That is weird! Hmm, what is your vin number? PM it to me if you like. I might try checking i through ASA.

[turbovr4]

That auto transmission computer is the same as tn -tp magna,you can even see the letters ELC which is what the called the auto.Back to your previous post ,you said that when you shorted the timing plug the car died.I had a import vr4 loom at home and it had your timing plug but also had a 12v ignition supply plug for testing that you had ignition power,colour code was similer for both plugs.and the plugs looked the same.
If your car was originally and auto then you will have extra plugs spare near the gearbox on your loom

[vr4goleta]

pm sent brisvr4

[vr4goleta]

yep just checked and found 2x 4 pin plugs a 3pin plug and single pin plug around gearbox, even the wiring to the reverse switch looks aftermarket (speaker wire and push joiners)

so without the auto trans the tcu is not needed correct?
so really there shouldnt have been anything to make it burn out like that
can it just be removed and ignored/?
or should the loom be replaced?

the only other thing i done was fit a slightly different wiper relay a little before i started it (cos im having such a hard time finding the proper one) but an incorrect wiper relay couldnt have done that could it?

[brisvr4]

I would turn the key to on then check all the pin outs on the tcu plug to see if any of them still see power then trace the wiring back and disconnect it.
I ran your vin and it was a factory auto as well.