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I hate my car with a passion

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37 replies to this topic

#21
91LTI

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ahhh ok then mate thats cool, i have a mate who lives in Lismore too, so could still help you out if need be.
_____________________
Plates: 91LTI
Name: Josh
Car: 4G63T GSR
Hektik: Yes

#22
DZN60

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That's awesome so when do we start this operation? I'll get my old bottom end checked out someday next week to cheap for any bearing wear ect ect

#23
rob323

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How have you determined that it is your bottom end that has a rattle? Where abouts in the bottom end?
The blow by problem could just be the pcv valve stuck open etc.
Chrome hater No. 1.
Former owner of the pair of ass kicking boots for purchasers of cheap ebay chinese knock off turbos. - Ass kicking boots now for sale SOLD.

VR4 - the "Old Skool" evo!

#24
DZN60

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How have you determined that it is your bottom end that has a rattle? Where abouts in the bottom end?
The blow by problem could just be the pcv valve stuck open etc.



It rattles pretty bad up the top (not from head) and its only covering number 3 spark plug in oil no others

#25
rob323

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So do a leak down test before you spend time pulling the engine out.
Chrome hater No. 1.
Former owner of the pair of ass kicking boots for purchasers of cheap ebay chinese knock off turbos. - Ass kicking boots now for sale SOLD.

VR4 - the "Old Skool" evo!

#26
DZN60

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So do a leak down test before you spend time pulling the engine out.



do i have to take it back to a mechanic to do that or can i buy something and do it myself?

#27
rob323

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A compression tester and some engine oil is all you need to at least tell whether it's a head problem or a piston/ ring problem.
Chrome hater No. 1.
Former owner of the pair of ass kicking boots for purchasers of cheap ebay chinese knock off turbos. - Ass kicking boots now for sale SOLD.

VR4 - the "Old Skool" evo!

#28
DZN60

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A compression tester and some engine oil is all you need to at least tell whether it's a head problem or a piston/ ring problem.


how much is a compression tester? could you give me a run down on how to do a compression test

#29
evo-gsr

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Compression tester is about 50 bucks from super cheap... Basically it screws into one of the spark plug holes instead of the spark plug... Then you just crank it over a couple of times... It's pretty easy man...
[qoute name="BMGTZ" post="331212" timestamp="1467451744"]I don't know anything ...
Trust in the master of taxis.... He will set you straight[/quote]

#30
Jonson

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Actually, to do a comp test properly.
1. Remove all spark plugs and ensure healthy battery
2. Insert tester into plug hole
3. Disconnect/disable fuel and spark
4. Hold throttle open
5. Crank engine approx 4-6 cycles or untill the needle stops rising.
6. Note readings from 1-4. The closer the numbers the better, you should see around high 150's mid 160's.

Then for a wet test, as above, but put a small squirt of oil in the cylinder before insertin the tester. If the number rises significantly it indicates a ring/sealing problem.
Hope it helps.
Jon - Evo VII. Previous cars: Evo VI, Evo VIII, Legnum, E39a VR4, Cordia GSR's. Owner of Driven Motorsport - Adelaide.

#31
dvscoupe

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I have a compression tester your welcome to borrow dude :D

#32
evopwr

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Hope you get this sorted mate.

This is why i do all the work myself. There's no one else to blame if shit faarks up!
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#33
DZN60

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yeah gonna take my old forged bottom end to a good engine builder proberly JHH engineering in Brisbane and getting it checked out then im doin the swap over at home....never did trust many mechanics now i really dont trust them.

#34
Hypo

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yeah gonna take my old forged bottom end to a good engine builder proberly JHH engineering in Brisbane and getting it checked out then im doin the swap over at home....never did trust many mechanics now i really dont trust them.


Mine is being built by Nick at NA Autosport. I priced up JHH and APC as well ended up with him.

Problem is they will need to strip it and reasssemble it for it to be checked out if you want some certainity.

#35
DZN60

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Mine is being built by Nick at NA Autosport. I priced up JHH and APC as well ended up with him.

Problem is they will need to strip it and reasssemble it for it to be checked out if you want some certainity.



just curious whats it costing you? im only replacing what needs to be ...

#36
Hypo

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JHH wanted 9k with no warranty.

APC wanted 5.5k for just the bottom end.

NA were cheaper but I have now added a few new items.

#37
JAP63

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As I read through this I'm sorry to hear you're at that point where your ready to toss it in. I know your new-ish around here...And I'm putting my neck out a little but I think Jonson is pretty sincere and no fool, hes been around here a while and has merit..and we know he builds engine regularly...
So many people get tripped up by little things that cost them BIG $$$. Its unfortunate, but everything has to be seen out to the end by someone that knows what they're doing..right till the key is turned...and unfortunately, theres not a lot of places Id even trust with any of my cars...ever...I hope it comes together for you.

I think Ive actually met you before as well, friends with Dan that had a Blue MY99 Wrx hey..

Jamie
17-08-2007, 01:46 PM

In no time you'll realise you made a mistake.
You'll be back

He was right (now back to a F**kn Barina) Lookn for a 7 though !!!!!!!!

#38
Jonson

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As I've said on the phone to Daniel when the engine first went wrong, everyone makes mistakes, and if it is my fuckup I will try help him out.
If No. 3 plug is getting coated in oil, it will either be cracked head, oil rings not bed in properly or damaged piston.
I had a look at the head and the pistons and they looked OK, so my money is going on the oil rings. As for the knock....god knows, I won't warrant that, mainly due to the dickhead mechanics you took it to where you live, which I also said on the phone.
Jon - Evo VII. Previous cars: Evo VI, Evo VIII, Legnum, E39a VR4, Cordia GSR's. Owner of Driven Motorsport - Adelaide.


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