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what kind of rims do you have out there?
#21
Posted 07 July 2010 - 04:06 AM
#22
Posted 07 July 2010 - 12:47 PM
Edited by 97RVR, 07 July 2010 - 12:55 PM.
#23
Posted 08 July 2010 - 06:46 AM
#24
Posted 08 July 2010 - 01:56 PM
I just brought 18x8.5 & 18x9.5 Rays like them..But in silver for my black RVR.+30 I think. These were taken before it was lowered - I haven't taken any pics for a while...
Cheers !
#25
Posted 09 July 2010 - 12:33 AM
I like the sound of them though, throw a pic up when u get a chance dude.
#26
Posted 09 July 2010 - 12:42 AM
Staggered rims on an AWD... I was under the impression that wasn't a good idea?
+1
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors
#27
Posted 09 July 2010 - 12:58 AM
#28
Posted 09 July 2010 - 02:41 AM
The wheels go on when I throw my other Auto box in..It has a welded centre diffStaggered rims on an AWD... I was under the impression that wasn't a good idea?
I like the sound of them though, throw a pic up when u get a chance dude.
viscous lsd & switchable transfer case..LSD FWD or LSD AWD..When you lock the
auto you need 8mm more rear tyre circ..215x45x18 & 245x40x18 are my tyres.
Cheers !
#29
Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:02 AM
#30
Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:04 AM
RIP: 1996 RVR SSG Auto.
Great memories on the road, and off.
From Diamonds to Stars.
#31
Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:24 AM
Miodrag told me that you brought the white rvr with one of my modded boxes in it.Sounds like an interesting setup to come... Keep us posted on your Auto-box
It will handle any boost you throw at it Matt.
I've run the locked auto with lsd in my old ggsr..It was good for a rolling start
Had the same setup in my Monte, but with the switchable case etc.
The rvr is getting the same & with an 8" electric motor added to the tailshaft.
I was going to set this up in my 92 cc awd, but decided road clearance is sh_t
I need quite a few $$ for lithium iron bats etc, so the elec will be laterrrrrr.
Cheers !
#32
Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:48 AM
Any way of locking it to the rear only.....? Drift RVR hehe :-)
Look forward to seeing some pics.
#33
Posted 09 July 2010 - 04:01 AM
You can do that without taking the box out.Serious auto you have there champ!
Any way of locking it to the rear only.....? Drift RVR hehe :-)
Look forward to seeing some pics.
Throw in a welded centre diff & remove the crown wheel.
Can remove axles etc to reduce more weight, but why LOL
Cheers !
#34
Posted 09 July 2010 - 09:04 AM
Miodrag told me that you brought the white rvr with one of my modded boxes in it.
It will handle any boost you throw at it Matt.
I've run the locked auto with lsd in my old ggsr..It was good for a rolling start
Had the same setup in my Monte, but with the switchable case etc.
The rvr is getting the same & with an 8" electric motor added to the tailshaft.
I was going to set this up in my 92 cc awd, but decided road clearance is sh_t
I need quite a few $$ for lithium iron bats etc, so the elec will be laterrrrrr.
Cheers !
Ahh excellent, I've heard many good things from Miodrag about your work. The only funny thing it does is revs high and changes then revs high when the TCU can't decide what gear (when you apply around 75% throttle) But I agree, this thing is rock solid. Handles power delivery well.
Do you remember exactly when this was built (km?) I'm pondering servicing it soon and doing the Valve-Body Phillips head Pressure increase thing that Mio sent me.
Also pondering helping make the Solenoid Rail mod with variable pot and maybe a voltage stabiliser. One thought I had was to make a box where you could swap to 5V or 0v with the flick of a switch and choose between potentiometer, 5v, 0v, 65ohm resistor and normal to give you the choice to run whatever you want.
#35
Posted 09 July 2010 - 10:24 AM
to control the pressure control solenoid..about 175 US. Guessing #3 would be the
hardest/less voltage & off would allow the tcu to run the std voltages. I brought
some resistors from jaycar & Miodrag & I were testing them..After I left He found a
resistor on one of my old ecus that turned 5v supply into only 2.3v..So that would
make a gear change @ 4k a decent bite..I run fully manualised in the Monte with a
TL-175 shift kit in the valve body, so I know what the harshest gear change feels
like..Driving slow, the tailshaft bangs a bit, but even my 86yrs old mother doesn't
mind it..What I'm thinking of running in my RVR is, split the blue wire into 2 with a
resistor on each wire..One to give me 2.3v & have an inline switch to turn it on/off.
The other wire to have 0.2v for my hardest gear change..So On allows 2.3v to pass
through for a semi hard bite & Off makes the power pass through the 0.2v only to
give me the harder bite..I want those 2 modes at the flick of a switch..Mild for auto
mode & harder for the hold mode switch..I'm a dickhead lol..The hold switch can be
used to do this with a relay..I'm guessing I did your box about 2 years ago..Your
oil would have silver in it for sure from the kevlar clutches (blame the previous owner
for not servicing it) You need a new filter & Ford 95 trans oil & blow the oil out of the
cooler line..You can turn the screw on the valve body a 1/4 turn anticlockwise.. That
should be enough extra pressure supply for the quicker blue wire gear changes.
Cheers !
#36
Posted 09 July 2010 - 10:29 AM
Matt IPT trans in USA sell a (boost box) It is a variable potentiometer with Off,1,2,3
to control the pressure control solenoid..about 175 US. Guessing #3 would be the
hardest/less voltage & off would allow the tcu to run the std voltages. I brought
some resistors from jaycar & Miodrag & I were testing them..After I left He found a
resistor on one of my old ecus that turned 5v supply into only 2.3v..So that would
make a gear change @ 4k a decent bite..I run fully manualised in the Monte with a
TL-175 shift kit in the valve body, so I know what the harshest gear change feels
like..Driving slow, the tailshaft bangs a bit, but even my 86yrs old mother doesn't
mind it..What I'm thinking of running in my RVR is, split the blue wire into 2 with a
resistor on each wire..One to give me 2.3v & have an inline switch to turn it on/off.
The other wire to have 0.2v for my hardest gear change..So On allows 2.3v to pass
through for a semi hard bite & Off makes the power pass through the 0.2v only to
give me the harder bite..I want those 2 modes at the flick of a switch..Mild for auto
mode & harder for the hold mode switch..I'm a dickhead lol..The hold switch can be
used to do this with a relay..I'm guessing I did your box about 2 years ago..Your
oil would have silver in it for sure from the kevlar clutches (blame the previous owner
for not servicing it) You need a new filter & Ford 95 trans oil & blow the oil out of the
cooler line..You can turn the screw on the valve body a 1/4 turn anticlockwise.. That
should be enough extra pressure supply for the quicker blue wire gear changes.
Cheers !
If you could shoot me a PM on the forum, I might ring you one day soon
Cheers Thanks for the info
#37
Posted 02 August 2010 - 12:01 AM
Andy
#38
Posted 02 August 2010 - 12:12 PM
Thats part of the secret to wide tyres on our cars
#39
Posted 02 August 2010 - 12:39 PM
I've got Rays 18x8.5 fronts & 18x9.5 rears..I have 18mm offset bottom bush on myjust a quick question, whats the widest rim that can be fitted to a HSGR? Was given a set of 18x9 Rays Challenge. I have test fitted them and they fit up front but with the 265 tyres there is rubbing on full lock. I havent decided if ill run these yet though.
Andy
rear shocks to clear the inside of the 245 rear tyres..Needs flares to cover the rims.
Cheers !
#40
Posted 03 August 2010 - 11:42 PM
Andy
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