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What oil are you running?
#1
Posted 14 June 2010 - 03:12 PM
Penrite HPR10 Sem Synth 10-50w ("Extra 10" meaning does 10-40 engines too)
now using the full syn
Penrite Everyday Syn 5 - http://www.penriteoi...synthetic_5w-50
Still getting minor ticks, but keen to see if I can do anything more...
I do know that the 4g's aren't 4g's if they dont tick... but hey, one less tick is a good thing
Curious as to what oil everyone runs.
#2
Posted 14 June 2010 - 06:30 PM
#3
Posted 14 June 2010 - 08:15 PM
my fathers 1g motor developed a tick after running castrox gtx
#4
Posted 14 June 2010 - 08:28 PM
NOTE for all you skeptics out there this is not snake oil as it has been tested by an AUSTRALIAN university and the results are available on the net
PS I use it in all by cars but am not a seller.If you need it I can put you on to my supplier
#5
Posted 14 June 2010 - 11:07 PM
#6
Posted 15 June 2010 - 01:17 AM
#7
Posted 15 June 2010 - 01:20 AM
tiny bit of tapping
RIP: 1996 RVR SSG Auto.
Great memories on the road, and off.
From Diamonds to Stars.
#8
Posted 15 June 2010 - 03:14 AM
Interested in this pro mbl stuff...might give it a try when i drop the oil in the next couple of weeks. Anyone know where i can get it?
#9
Posted 15 June 2010 - 04:22 AM
Id be sticking to a 10W 40 or 15W 40. That's about spot on for our engines in the Aussie climate. We dont get cold enough to need a 0W or 5W oil at start up.
Have a look through your manual and look at the temp ranges and weights suggested by Mitsi to also get a feel for it.
Ive used GTX3 (more basic mineral), Magnatec (semi syn) and now want to try Shell Helix hx7 (semi syn). I change it more often like every 3000kms.
The oil has to hold the blow by soot from the turbo motor in suspension, plus the detergents get used up as well, so i see it better to use a good mid priced oil and change it more often, then a more expensive fully syn and not change it as often.
#10
Posted 15 June 2010 - 04:44 AM
i did try some Edge Sport, but that was too thin when it got hot through summer and was useless.
I currently have the penrite HPR10 + extra 10 as above. it is not bad either, very little lifter tick, but i do have a bottle of the anti-tcik shtuff in there as well.
#11
Posted 15 June 2010 - 04:48 AM
My wagon with only a 70,000k motor gets 15w40, but all engines past 150K for me will get the 20w 50 treatment.
RIP: 1996 RVR SSG Auto.
Great memories on the road, and off.
From Diamonds to Stars.
#12
Posted 15 June 2010 - 05:56 AM
We dont get cold enough to need a 0W or 5W oil at start up..
says you that lives in Perth haha, im in tasmania
267awkw on 17psi
#13
Posted 16 June 2010 - 12:40 AM
Having seen the Oil guide a while back, it suggested 20-50 for brisbane temps (summer) and 10-40 for winter, so I've gone with 10-40/50.
Where do I get the stop tick stuff? More importantly, how does it work?
#14
Posted 16 June 2010 - 02:45 AM
repco & super cheap sell the basic stuff, also some decent German stuff which I use. cant remember the name sorry
#15
Posted 16 June 2010 - 04:05 AM
Tim
Dsmlink V3 + E85 11.37 @ 131.46 ... still more in her
Remember Kids... Google does not equal research!
Magnus
How much time do you spend in a parking lot with your performance car? If you do a lot of parking lot driving, and hang out in parking lots, chances are you are a ricer, go home and read import tuner. If you’re complaining about noise you should not be modifying your car. You should also consider no longer being a man, please hand in your genitals at the door.
#16
Posted 16 June 2010 - 05:08 AM
#17
Posted 16 June 2010 - 07:24 AM
motul turbolite, can't really top it for quiality. Light tap, but it's a jap turbo motor trait, had it in my turbo rb20, rb25, sr20, ej25, and even the good 'ol na rb30... sooooo used to it now ;-)
I use the Motul Turbolight 4100 (10W-40) as well, it's a nice oil and not so expensive. I might try the thicker version next time, maybe 15W-40. I used some Castrol 5W-30 shit, and I wouldn't recommend it.
#18
Posted 16 June 2010 - 09:03 AM
I used some Castrol 5W-30 shit, and I wouldn't recommend it.
I used that shit also for about a week. I think I drive it for about 300km.
Name: Steve
Ride: 1996 RVR super Sports Gear. NOW with coilovers
Location: Cannon Hill
I'm a P.T. that does crossfit. get over it.
#19
Posted 16 June 2010 - 10:14 AM
#20
Posted 16 June 2010 - 10:33 AM
Liqui Moly stop tappetmine has 252k on it
repco & super cheap sell the basic stuff, also some decent German stuff which I use. cant remember the name sorry
IMO that's too thin for these motors, if its a cold during winter where you are and you want a thinner oil you could go a 5W or 10W rating, but i wouldn't run a 10W30. The second number is the viscosity at 100 degrees, so its too thin when you at running temperatures and beating on the motor. stick with a 40 or 50I use Nulon high flow/low friction 10-30 at the moment.
Id stick with a 5W40, if its cold, otherwise a 10W40, 15W40.
And if the motors a bit worn a 15W50 or 20W50
Unless its really cold where you are i would refrain from the lower W ratings.
And that Castrol edge 0W40 is a load of shit unless you live where it snows. They seem to want to impress people with oh look its 0W40! what a wide range oil! But its some on the ingredients added to make it a wide ranging multigrade oil that coke up under the heat of a turbo anyway. May suit some brand new hondas that want a really thin oil at start up but not our motors.
Their 5W30 is too thin unless you have a new car or honda.
And their 10W60, is only good if you putting a lot of heat in the oil and need a 60 rating to keep the viscosity right if your beating on it at a track and really heating it up. The xr6T's run it also, they must dump alot of heat to the oil.. Castrol edge range has nothing suited for our motor or climate.
Edited by milkandoj, 16 June 2010 - 10:49 AM.
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