47 replies to this topic

[brettu26]

Liqui Moly stop tappet

yup thats the stuff! very happy with it so far.
WAAAAAY better than the Wynn's or generic branded stop tappet stuff..

i also agree 5-30 is too thin for these old bangers haha

[97RVR]

Used Castrol EDGE once after compliance, but have never used it since. I've been putting Royal Purple 10-40 in it every 5k since and can't fault it. Very pricey (unless you're not paying full price:cool:), but I stick with what works. Oh and I replaced the lifters when I did the Cams and springs, but I think you knew all that anyway Matt!

When did you get a hypergear anyway - I've been away too long!!

[Matt_]

I bought VR401's cousins car about 3 - 4 months ago.

Decided to jump up and buy something for myself. We should catch up soon.

[OLDIE]

My supplier of PRO MA PRODUCTS is Saul Goodman in Brisbane & he ships anywhere His ph no is 0417744299
Please tell him that RAD reccomended you contact him

[Garkus]

If any of you are in Canberra, I always have this gear in stock - save on delivery costs!

[howc]

gonna use motul turbolight 10w40 for my upcoming service.

[evopwr]

Just serviced the EFO 2 using penrite HPR10 10w50 and LiquiMoly hydraulic valve additive.

so far so good!

As many have already mentioned. its not how much you spend on the oil, its how often you service it!

[Lozzle]

Good thread, I was after some ideas for new oil to use to help ease the ticking that's become quite the driving companion.

I'm going to try the Penrite HPR10 10w/50, I think I used to use it on my old S13 some to think so hoping it helps a little.

[Matt_]

The HPR10 is great stuff, I used it before I changed to the the 5/50 Full Synth, however I might step to a 10-60 for summer and use the 5-50 in winter.

[moonchook]

just serviced my rvr on tuesday, used liquid moly engine flush before dumping the old oil (magnatech 10w40) replaced the oil with Penrite HPR 10 (10w50) and added the liquid moly tappet quietner stuff only ticks loudly now on warmup, and a small tick once its all up and running.

last time I used nulon brand tappet stuff which didnt give as good a result.

[evopwr]

i recommend using gen mitsu engine flush. comes in a really coon can that looks like a can of peas, and its made in jap land! also has been doing a good job for the last 4 services

alex

[Matt_]

I use Wurth Engine Oil Flush for a few reasons.

It's synthetic
It's non-abrasive
It's non-corrosive

With an engine flush, some do an amazing job, but what you don't realise is that they're eating into gaskets and doing damage where you cant see. Not only that, some of the additives can reduce lubrication greatly prior to dumping the oil and actually do more damage to the engine than you realise.

How's this for a horror story. Recently I found out about a mechanic who was using KEROSENE to flush engines, because it was easy and it worked.

For me, Wurth all the way, and I've found a place in Brisbane who sell it for $15 a bottle which is really cheap! I've used it on 2 of my cars and love it. My new RVR is about to have it's 100,000km service and it's getting a flush. The Mechanics (Ultratune Sandgate) Suggested the Wurth Brand too. A good sign for me.

[milkandoj]

I had someone telling me they used to fill the motor with diesel and leave it over night then flush it with some cheap oil, then fill it up, i was like, wtf that dodogy.

[to4garret]

personally i dont like engine flushs. a bit of carbon/gunk stuck to the side of a gallery wont do much, but when "flushed out" generally it will score a bearing.

a few oil changes in quick succession is all i normally do for a grubby motor.

[Matt_]

personally i dont like engine flushs. a bit of carbon/gunk stuck to the side of a gallery wont do much, but when "flushed out" generally it will score a bearing.

a few oil changes in quick succession is all i normally do for a grubby motor.

On older motors yes, but if you dump oil every 5000km from factory, you really dont need to worry too much, but when you buy a car and dont know the history it can be a good thing. My old RVR had a bad lifter tick when I bought it, I gave it a flush and hey presto it went away.

It depends on the age of the motor as a bit of carbon build up can dampen noises and lifter tick as there is less movement, depends on the car and how you drive it I guess.

[silvertop]

Motul Turbolight 10-40

[bazeng]

I'm not a fan of engine oil flush.

My opinion is, they are designed to break down oils in order to flush all the gunk out.
Now when you drain your oil, your physically not able to drain ALL of the oil out therefor you will still have flush in your engine when you top up with new oil. I personally ensure that I regularly drain the oil at 5000kms. Therefor you don't really have a need to flush.

If I were to flush, I'd top the engine back up with shitty oil, fire it up, let the oil circulate and then drain again. Simply in order to reduce the percentage of flush still in the engine when topping up with the good stuff.

Anyway, I've been using AMSOIL 0-30w in the AMG and 20-60 in the VR4.
Run in oil, go penrite 15-40 run in oil. Don't use that 30w straight stuff.

My second choice would be VALVOLINE then CASTROL.

[OLDIE]

Anyone here used Conoco or Neo ??
The Neo is the reccomended tranny oil for PAR gearsets and WRC transmissions so I would think that it must be exceptionally good

[evopwr]

If mitsu use it and make (or rebrand?) it and sell it, then you can be safe to assume that it doesn't harm your engine.

at the end of the day we're all hypothesizing here when there are people that develop and test these additives for a living.

[bazeng]

Anyone here used Conoco or Neo ??
The Neo is the reccomended tranny oil for PAR gearsets and WRC transmissions so I would think that it must be exceptionally good

I've been told by PAR that this oil MUST be used also. They say no redline. Anyway, thats tranny stuff.

I know Harold from Performancelub tried to chase up info on the neo stuff without any luck. No tech specs were obtainable.