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What oil are you running?

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47 replies to this topic

#41
doommachine

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I always had horrible lifter tick in the galant, and when I bought it the PO was running shell helix ultra (the 0w-30 or whatever). It ran OK, but I experimented with oils and discovered that the oil it likes the best is Fuchs fully synth 10w30. The galant motor has about 90,000 on it. Oils it hated - nulon fully synth, and the castrol that everyone says was crap.

The fuchs oil actually mostly stopped the lifter tick, it used to be pretty bad when I was running shell, and it got worse when I put Nulon in it. But mostly it doesn't tick that much with fuchs in it.

#42
Beastlee

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Guys, we run our cars on Amsoil and it's the best thing I ever did for my VR4. I had lifter tick for ages but now you can physically see the insides of the engine cleaning up and there's no noise whatsover.
Our Oil guru has given us lots of useful info on oils and the worst thing you can do for your cars it to use 10w50. We were advised that we should avoid 40w oils too and the most recommended one is 0w30 which is what I use even with -20 degrees in the winter and +35 degrees in the summer, oh and a VR4 runs much hotter than a 4G63T engine with the twin turbos.
I'm obviously only quoting someone else but in the last 5 years they've not got it wrong yet.

I'll try and get the actual details and re-post here so you can see the technical reasons.

Edited by Beastlee, 26 October 2010 - 07:04 PM.


#43
Dean

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Will any of you guys be using different oils for summer?
Asking you guys that drive your 4G's daily.
4G93T No More

#44
Matt_

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Yo!

I Run Penrite Every Day Full Synthetic 5-50w in winter
and for summer/warmer weather, I run Penrite Sin15 Premium Full Synthetic 15-50w.
I also run Liquid Moly - Tappet Stop Noise. Best product ever. No lifter tick, nothing! It's great

I drive mine daily, clock around 550km a week without trouble, some weeks upto 1000 a week.
1997 RVR Hyper Sports Gear Manual.

#45
Lozzle

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Ok I am donig an oil change tomorrow before a run down south for the weekend and I reckon I will give this Liquid Moly Stop Tappet a go.

What's the deal with this stuff? Just pour it in with the new oil? Or do you pour it in with the old stuff and let it run for a while?


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1997 Mitsubishi HSGR RVR
2005 Honda CBR600RR

#46
milkandoj

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Im pretty sure it says on the bottle, you put in in your oil and it takes up to 500km to work so need to leave it in there.
So common sense would also dictate some fresh oil would be best.

Its not like oil flush where you put it in and idle for 10-15min and don't drive it then dump it, this product you leave in.
99% home built for a life time warranty. Engine now needing repair under 'warranty'

#47
rvrhsr

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Im pretty sure it says on the bottle, you put in in your oil and it takes up to 500km to work so need to leave it in there.
So common sense would also dictate some fresh oil would be best.

Its not like oil flush where you put it in and idle for 10-15min and don't drive it then dump it, this product you leave in.


Exactly.

I use it every oil change, along with the same brand of full synthetic 10W-40 oil - works great.

#48
Lozzle

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So Penrite now only make full synthetics. Apparently this can be mixed with leftover semi-synth Penrite oils ok.

Doing an oil change tomorrow and since I've had a good run with Penrite and the Stop Tappet stuff, I'll give the full synth a go...


Penrite HPR 10w-50
1997 Mitsubishi HSGR RVR
2005 Honda CBR600RR


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