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Water gets too hot - HELP

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18 replies to this topic

#1
GeorgeGG

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hey guys
its summer and my monster (EVO II) feels really really hot those days.
i can not drive it at day time in traffic - it impossible because water goes up over 100c deg.. i have 1 small fan on water radiator and another in front of A/C radiator but main thing is that Turbo and manifold is too close to Radiator.
i dont know what to do
will Sard / Ralliart Thermostat Cure this problem?
i don't want to remove A/C its really hot over here.

car is pritty tuned and its pushing enough power to make everything hot under bonnet

any suggestions?

#2
bazeng

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Have you tried using a turbo beenie?

Posted Image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This will help you with your temps.

Apart from that, you can try ceramic coating.

Also, check your AC condenser. It could be restricting your air flow.

If it is only doing it at idle or in traffic, it probably means you do not have enough airflow. Can you upgrade your fan size?

Can you add another fan?

Edited by bazeng, 22 July 2010 - 08:40 PM.


#3
GeorgeGG

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Have you tried using a turbo beenie?

Posted Image

This will help you with your temps.

Apart from that, you can try ceramic coating.

i have heat shield around turbo and manifold but it still doesnt help.


Also, check your AC condenser. It could be restricting your air flow.

If it is only doing it at idle or in traffic, it probably means you do not have enough airflow. Can you upgrade your fan size?

Can you add another fan?

it happens only when i drive slow in traffic and outside is 30c+ or on idle

there is no Room for any bigger fan i'm afraid and no Extra fan room too.

#4
VR-4Squid

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Try using a higher ratio of Coolant to water in the radiator, this along with a 1.3bar radiator cap (stock is 1.1) will raise the boiling point of the coolant slightly which may be enough to make the difference.

If not you will need to fit an aftermarket (thicker and/or dual pass) radiator.

Depending how often/long you are going to be caught in traffic you could setup a simple system to spray water onto the radiator using a second window washer bottle/pump/lines/squirters

#5
Dean

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So you're temps basically rise when stationary or moving very slowly? How about when you're moving at say 60km/h?
What radiator are you running btw?
4G93T No More

#6
bazeng

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Have you confirmed that your fans are running in the correct polarity?
Are they straight blades or curved bladed fans?
Straight blades will flow much more BUT are much louder.
The curved will provide you with slightly less flow but are much quieter in operation.

Also keep in mind some fans are uni-directional. They will flow both ways BUT are designed to flow at best in one direction.

I like the SPAL fans myself.
They are very thin and flow very well.

I'm running a honda civic radiator in my Bro's Galant and 1 SPAL fan which keeps the temps under control. I run 1 bottle of water wetter and the rest water. If you get freezing temps where you are then you'll need to have a mix of antifreeze in there also.

Basically being stationary tells us that it is an airflow problem with your fans. You are simply not moving enough air to cool down your radiator.

Have you maximised the space for the largest fans available?

And as Dean pointed out, what radiator? Is it in good condition?

#7
bazeng

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I just had a look at your members ride thread and it looks like you have a very very thin puller fan and a very thin (single pass/core) radiator..

#8
evo-gsr

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I think you've hit the nail on the head there Baz...
[qoute name="BMGTZ" post="331212" timestamp="1467451744"]I don't know anything ...
Trust in the master of taxis.... He will set you straight[/quote]

#9
milkandoj

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Adding more coolant to the mix does raise the boiling temp, but, at the same time the heat transfer ability of the mix is lowered. So its a double edged sword. It wont pick up the heat as quickly in the motor or transfer it as well at the radiator.

I also been thinking about using water wetter with a higher pressure cap, as the higher pressure gives you a higher boiling point.

Great write up baz:thumbsup:

Have you tried simple things like a radiator flush, it will remove some of the scale inside the radiator if you have a stock/old one, so it can transfer the heat better, rather than having a layer insulating it inside.
99% home built for a life time warranty. Engine now needing repair under 'warranty'

#10
Jonson

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One thing to remember is the higher rated cap allows higher boiling point BUT it also means higher pressure. So anyone running the 1.3 cap should definitely not be running spring clamps.
Start with a good sized Rad and fans first mate.
Jon - Evo VII. Previous cars: Evo VI, Evo VIII, Legnum, E39a VR4, Cordia GSR's. Owner of Driven Motorsport - Adelaide.

#11
GeorgeGG

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just i have problem with Space under bonnet
i dont want to remove AC and stuff like that :( just there is NO ROOM :(
i'm running stock radiator which had done Clean and rebuild job. has copper cover instead of plastic and running 1.3bar cap

Fan on AC is stock which comes from factory

and fan on water radiator is thinest i could find and it is from opel corsa AC fan just it works oposit way (swaped + - )

#12
milkandoj

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What about hooking the AC fan up so it some on with the radiator fan also, so you have two fans when you need it to keep things cool
99% home built for a life time warranty. Engine now needing repair under 'warranty'

#13
Lister

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I'd upgrade the thermostat, then look to possibly add another slim line fan in front of the air con condensor on the drivers side blowing into the engine bay.

#14
GeorgeGG

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What about hooking the AC fan up so it some on with the radiator fan also, so you have two fans when you need it to keep things cool


well they both work together and mostly at daytime they are all the time ON

thermostat is extra 100$ is it worth to go for it?

#15
bazeng

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You can get a RALLIART thermostat or a TRIDENT after market one.

Just get something rated lower than what you have.

I think standard is 88deg C?

I am running one in the AMG which is 78deg C.

Contact SIVART for a mitsu part number or you can order direct from him and he'll send it to you!

I say you try these in order:

- water wetter + water only mix (only if you don't get freezing temps there)
Posted Image
Posted Image

If that fails,

- try the thermostat or if you want to save money, remove the thermostat all together and see if it works. If it does, you know that your cooling system is efficient enough to cool your engine in traffic.

If this doesn't work

- upgrade your fan. Try and find out what your current fan flows (cfm) and compare to other fans in the same or larger size.
Try and fit the largest fans on there

if that fails

- upgrade radiator

if that fails

- move to Melbourne

#16
MTH

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If you haven’t had this problem before on the same setup and it has just started 9 times out of 10 it’s an airlock in the system. This will catch most people out after they have done anything with dropping water out of the system, it will over heat no matter what coolant your running

#17
BMGTZ

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check your oil cooler is hot at the same time as the radiator......Ive seen some of the metal pipes off the oil filter housing kinked so that the oil cant pass through.

also you could raise the baqck edge of the bonnet with spacers to improve airflow out of the engine bay

perhaps one of these will help too

http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

BRIAN
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I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.

 

 


#18
GeorgeGG

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You can get a RALLIART thermostat or a TRIDENT after market one.

Just get something rated lower than what you have.

I think standard is 88deg C?

I am running one in the AMG which is 78deg C.

Contact SIVART for a mitsu part number or you can order direct from him and he'll send it to you!

I say you try these in order:

- water wetter + water only mix (only if you don't get freezing temps there)
Posted Image
Posted Image

If that fails,

- try the thermostat or if you want to save money, remove the thermostat all together and see if it works. If it does, you know that your cooling system is efficient enough to cool your engine in traffic.

If this doesn't work

- upgrade your fan. Try and find out what your current fan flows (cfm) and compare to other fans in the same or larger size.
Try and fit the largest fans on there

if that fails

- upgrade radiator

if that fails

- move to Melbourne



I am running one in the AMG which is 78deg C.

you mean Mercedes-Benz AMG? or ? which one exactly?
stock Thermostat is 81deg not 88

new thermostat will cost me about 100USD just i dont want to spend money in thing what will not help me to solve problem.
but... i think there is no way to check it if i wont fit that F**ker :)


if that fails

- move to Melbourne

yeah right... send me tickets i'm coming :D

#19
brisvr4

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Have you tried making your own duct system? I sealed the area around the edge of the radiator with heat resistant foam sheet and also sealed between the edge of the intercooler and radiator so the air coming in has to go through the radiator and can't just hit it and travel around. I also ran a strip under the radiator support panel from the intercooler back to seal the bottom edge as well.

If you raise the rear of the bonnet it won't do anything for engine temps in most cars as there is a pressure differential created that doesn't allow any air out of the engine bay when moving.
That said, it will help when you are sitting still idling.

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How much time do you spend in a parking lot with your performance car? If you do a lot of parking lot driving, and hang out in parking lots, chances are you are a ricer, go home and read import tuner. If you’re complaining about noise you should not be modifying your car. You should also consider no longer being a man, please hand in your genitals at the door.



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