16 replies to this topic

[bazeng]

Hi Guys!

Just thought I'd start a thread just expressing what other guys do to make a gearbox change easier.

I myself always
1. Pull out the complete front (3 piece) sub frame plus removing that little funny shape frame in the corner to pry the driveshaft cup out of the box
2. Remove anything above the gearbox (intercooler piping etc etc)
3. Disconnect slave cylinder bracket from box and slave cylinder itself from box while taping the rod to the cylinder so I don't need to rebleed/drain the unit
4. Undo starter motor and leave it connected to the wires
5. Pull off both front wheels / disconnect hubs from suspension and pull both shafts out including the solid shaft which bolts onto the block
6. Pull off dump pipe
7. Pull off transfer case
8. Remove lower flywheel inspection shield
9. Remove reverse sensor
10. Disconnect speedo gear
11. Disconnect shifter cables
12. Unbolt scatter shield (not applicable to everyone)
13. Support the box with a jack
14. Undo + Remove gearbox mount (both chassis and box mount)
15. Slowly lower the jack and split the box from the block
16. Use another jack to support sump with a block of timber and totally removing box from block

Thats it!

Now my question is, can I do anything to make it easier. Anybody have any advice?

I'm thinking, can I leave the passenger side driveshafts in for removal and install?
Does having 2 shafts (inputshaft of gearbox) and driveshaft help with the alignment of reinstallation or will it make it harder?

I've just got to find the most efficient way of doing this simply because I may consider getting a street box and race box so gearbox changes might have to be a regular thing for the VR4.

I'm considering even going AUTO for drag and std mitsu box for street.

Let me know what you guys would do!

[JayRome]

from memory Auto box was alot bigger, and you will also have to keep changing flywheels over.....

[JiMi]

i'd rather buy and maintain another car than change a gvr4 box regularly, ive had mine in and out a couple of times and it isnt an easy/fun job... in saying that i didnt pull off the subframe out, might make the realigning easier

[brisvr4]

Pretty close to what do Barry but I don't drop the whold front section of the frame.
I just drop the north south cross member under the box and the triangle brace.
All up from thinking about pulling the box out to having it on a bench is under an hour for me by myself. It's not that hard of a job!
Getting it to mate back up with the block takes less than a minute once I have it on a trolley jack under the car.

[youda]

i have done six vr4 g'boxes in the last 4months. some good tips as follows.

leave the pass side cv shaft where it is, it dosent need to come off and its not that hard to line up. also meant the pass side wheel can stay on.
with the drivers side suspension disconnect brakeline and abs two 12m bolts. dont disconnect from caliper. then unbolt hub from shocky and let it swing down. disconnect boot from cv cup at gearbox and remove shaft. ziptie shaft out of way. (by leaving cup in gearbox you can now tilt gearbox back and remove gearbox without draining the oil out beforehand. ie when ure only doing a clutch).
put slave cylinder back on before putting center cross member back on (just makes it easier).
when re installing gearbox tilt the front of the gearbox at a sharp angle upwards until 3/4 of the way up the flywheel this help to stop having dramas with the gearbox hitting the subframe.

these are just a few ill come up with more later.

[rob323]

Anyone that whinges about vr4 gearboxes obviously hasn't had to help remove a Nissan Pulsar GTiR gearbox.

[bazeng]

Pretty close to what do Barry but I don't drop the whold front section of the frame.
I just drop the north south cross member under the box and the triangle brace.
All up from thinking about pulling the box out to having it on a bench is under an hour for me by myself. It's not that hard of a job!
Getting it to mate back up with the block takes less than a minute once I have it on a trolley jack under the car.

I have to drop the front because the DUMP PIPE nuts are too hard to get to.
The passenger side subframe needs to also come out due to the Moroso sump

Mine takes slightly longer because of all the other little bits and pieces ie electric water pump, ice box etc etc.

i have done six vr4 g'boxes in the last 4months. some good tips as follows.

leave the pass side cv shaft where it is, it dosent need to come off and its not that hard to line up. also meant the pass side wheel can stay on.
with the drivers side suspension disconnect brakeline and abs two 12m bolts. dont disconnect from caliper. then unbolt hub from shocky and let it swing down. disconnect boot from cv cup at gearbox and remove shaft. ziptie shaft out of way. (by leaving cup in gearbox you can now tilt gearbox back and remove gearbox without draining the oil out beforehand. ie when ure only doing a clutch).
put slave cylinder back on before putting center cross member back on (just makes it easier).
when re installing gearbox tilt the front of the gearbox at a sharp angle upwards until 3/4 of the way up the flywheel this help to stop having dramas with the gearbox hitting the subframe.

these are just a few ill come up with more later.

Great idea with leaving the cup in!
But in my case, its the box that is broken so fluid is already out but I'll keep that in mind!
Some good tips there!
Next time you do one make sure to take some pics for future reference!

[VR-4Squid]

You can save a few minutes by not draining the oil from the transfer case - leave the driveshaft in the case and place the t-case on a block of wood,etc under the car, if the oil's been changed recently you don't really need to do it again.

[Gooch]

Hey folks,

This is great stuff can some of you who already do this in under an hour post some pictures with the instructions please.
I am a noob and would benefit with many P I C T U R E S or pop ups would be even greater
Seriously I would really appreciate it thanks maybe even a tool guide as well what tools are needed in this project?

[VR-4Squid]

Try www.vfaq.com best how to site there is.

[Gooch]

Hey Baz have you beefed up the auto?

[bazeng]

They can be done Bob. Boost lover is running 10s on his one. They need a bit of work but can work well. Kiggly racing is running 8s is his fwd on misti auto.

[kyle-reece]

Hey guys is it possible to drop the gearbox out with transfer case still attached? I'm finding it difficult to access the top bolt on the transfer case as my exhaust is in the way and it's a bitch to remove

[bazeng]

I'll add to this.
I've probably done this over 10 times now by myself.

I would add:
1. Use jack to support the box
2. If available, attach engine hoist to box (there are large bolt threads in the top of the box that are designed for this). Use ubolt or sling
3. Remove jack and support box with engine hoist.
4. Use hoist on sump to support the engine.
5. Lower one at a time until lowest point without engine hitting radiator or rail.
6. Gearbox should easily be slipped out without any issues.


This method has been much easier for me.

[kyle-reece]

Is that with transfer case still attached to gearbox?

[bazeng]

No. I always remove it first.

Edited by bazeng, 01 November 2016 - 01:28 AM.

[kyle-reece]

Cheers mate got it sorted