27 replies to this topic

[EV0300]

Ok so ive had 3 different mechanics suggest 3 different types of oils and I am down right confused as of which way to go.
So what do people use for their 4G63t? and does it depend on how modded your engine is?
cheers for all help

[TRQ-STR]

Your engines clearances, condition, purpose and how much you’re willing to pay for a bottle of oil every service have a lot to do with it.

[GSRWRC]

Motul 300v 10w40

[3zercrowd]

Type "oils" in the search engine exactly as you see it there and you will get so many topics that you will be reading for hours......then you will know

[DOUGMO]

Motul 300v 10w40

ooooo high roller!

certainly is good stuff though, holds up well when the oil temps get up a bit high.

nice oil

[milkandoj]

You need to give people info on the motor, rebuilt or standard, if its rebuilt do you know if its a loose or tight rebuild? Is it street driven or raced?

Between a 10W 40 and a 20W50 depending on how tired the motor is and how hot it is where you live for a street motor. And id prefer to buy a semi syntheic oil and be able of change it twice as often than a $90 bottle of full synthetic.

i been using castrol magnatec, and shell hx7 both 10w40 in my vr4 motor. This is as light as you would want to go, unless in winter it snows where you are.

Im starting to like the idea of Penrite HPR10, 10W50. Especially in summer. And also they advertise it has a high ammount of zinc, Forced Performance in the States put out an info sheet on oil needing a high zinc and phosphous content when pushing turbos hard. So im gonna switch to that. Zinc is a great mollecular level lubricant in oil but is removed from a lot of American oils for emissions reasons, if Penrite still advertise it we must not have the same standards on zinc content in Australia.

15W40 or 10W40 in winter and 10W50 or 15W50 in summer would be good if its hot where you are.
A decent semi synthetic oil is plenty and change it often i do every 3000 kms or less if im working on the car anyway. For example my car (a few years older than your evo 3) calls for an SAE grade SG-SJ oil, an SJ mineral oil costs $13, and just about everything else on the shelf will exceed this standard anyway so that's the type of oil around when my motor (and a few years later your motor) was built, semi synthetic SM on SN oil thats say $40+ will well exceed what the car was made to run on.

If its being raced then full synthetics and heaver oils (--W60) are worth looking at if your oil temps climb.

Have a google search on oil classification and what each aprt of the oil weight means and make you own mind up to some degree. I find oil very interestng and always trying to learn more about it.

Edited by milkandoj, 14 January 2011 - 12:57 PM.

[EV0300]

You need to give people info on the motor, rebuilt or standard, if its rebuilt do you know if its a loose or tight rebuild? Is it street driven or raced?

Between a 10W 40 and a 20W50 depending on how tired the motor is and how hot it is where you live for a street motor. And id prefer to buy a semi syntheic oil and be able of change it twice as often than a $90 bottle of full synthetic.

i been using castrol magnatec, and shell hx7 both 10w40 in my vr4 motor. This is as light as you would want to go, unless in winter it snows where you are.

Im starting to like the idea of Penrite HPR10, 10W50. Especially in summer. And also they advertise it has a high ammount of zinc, Forced Performance in the States put out an info sheet on oil needing a high zinc and phosphous content when pushing turbos hard. So im gonna switch to that. Zinc is a great mollecular level lubricant in oil but is removed from a lot of American oils for emissions reasons, if Penrite still advertise it we must not have the same standards on zinc content in Australia.

15W40 or 10W40 in winter and 10W50 or 15W50 in summer would be good if its hot where you are.
A decent semi synthetic oil is plenty and change it often i do every 3000 kms or less if im working on the car anyway. For example my car (a few years older than your evo 3) calls for an SAE grade SG-SJ oil, an SJ mineral oil costs $13, and just about everything else on the shelf will exceed this standard anyway so that's the type of oil around when my motor (and a few years later your motor) was built, semi synthetic SM on SN oil thats say $40+ will well exceed what the car was made to run on.

If its being raced then full synthetics and heaver oils (--W60) are worth looking at if your oil temps climb.

Have a google search on oil classification and what each aprt of the oil weight means and make you own mind up to some degree. I find oil very interestng and always trying to learn more about it.

yeah thanks for all that info, its standard not rebuild and its done 93k, it doesnt snow here and i drive it most days of the week i dont race but i like to have abit of fun every now and then the guy that had it before me was running 5w30, but i put 10w40 synthetic into it.
i'll definately be looking into that penrite oil too sounds interesting.

[Evo-00x]

A word from Penrite about zinc content that is worth reading: http://www.penriteoi...ch Bulletin.pdf
Also some Australian forum Q&A's about Castrol oils answered: http://aussieexotics...ere-5594.0.html

Edited by EVO-00X, 15 January 2011 - 01:52 AM.

[leadfoot]

ok so me running a rebuilt 4g93t with main bearing clearences of. 0.05 would you consider that a tight or loose rebuild going by the mesurements and tolerances from the mitsu workshop manual i have my journas are on the outer end of the scale (small side).

i was thinkin a 10w 50 (gold coast 30deg av summer 17-22 av winter) would a this in a semi syn be a good choice i kind of baby my car but give it the boot every now and then and ever since giving my first car the wrath of hell for 4 years. am much more aware of the life of my engine in the year i've had this car i've changed the oil 6 times gearbox however has been neglected alil and will be getting a good looking over by the mechanic in the next month or so.

completly new to perfomance engines so droping in a foreign engine has me franticly searching for what i should use

[GSRWRC]

ooooo high roller!

certainly is good stuff though, holds up well when the oil temps get up a bit high.

nice oil

I buy it 20L containers. gets the price down to around $22/L :| But yeah, in a built engine I wouldn't use anything else.

[milkandoj]

Great info thanks!
Ill to try digg up the Forced Performance info. Im away atm and the computer im using is slow so ill put i up later. I want to compare the Zinc levels in the oils FP is advising to use to what penrite say they have in their oil.

[OLDIE]

Great info thanks!
Ill to try digg up the Forced Performance info. Im away atm and the computer im using is slow so ill put i up later. I want to compare the Zinc levels in the oils FP is advising to use to what penrite say they have in their oil.

Forced Performance Turbos have a list of reccomended oils and their reasons for reccomending them. Just Google them
David Buschur reccomends Brad Penn 20.50 semi synthetic.

[turbovr4]

Both of my import VR4 4G63 motors i bought in 1995 ran penrite oil since i got them.When i rebuilt them couple of years ago the main bearings and conrod bearings were good,and the balance shaft bearings were good too,no machining required.They still run the original lifters with no noise yet and original turbos.Both motors had done over 140,000 km of me driving them let alone what was already on them.I started on penrite turbo then went to hpr15.and i was slack on oil changes,about 10,00km or yearly.

Maybe i was just lucky.but justed wanted to add my input for motors that have run long term

[youda]

i intially ran castrol magnatec for a while then ran penrite 15w semisynthetic for four years. this ran the car from 210,000km to 250,000km. i recently pulled the engine down and all the bigends/mains are well within speck and unmarked. i thrashed the shit out of that car. however i changed oil every 5000km or less and before every long drive. this is just my experience others may differ.

[Matt_]

Royal Purple 10-40w here
Though I might be going to something like elf soon, depends on what my engine builder says.

[CanadianEVO]

Royal Purple here aswell,
5W30 in colder conditions, 10W30 in warmer conditions.
E1 with 120K...
Not driven hard, just enough for some sounds, and beaten on civic's

[JETGSR]

mine is kinda golden colour and it doesn't feel nice when it's on your skin. it's hard to wash off with water.

then it goes like a brown colour. after a while I replace it with more gold coloured oil.

it doesn't taste very nice. so I wouldn't recommend using it for your chip fryer. or your waffles.

[JETGSR]

On a different note. if you are like Tim , when it changes colour thats when you change it.
about every 500 kms. Hey Tim!

I think he is using GTX2 the best a man can buy!

[brisvr4]

I don't use GTx crap Troy!
I use Magnatec and it usually stays in the engine for at least 400kms before I change it

[bazeng]

lol @ Tim...

I use AMSOIL here..