Hello camera pros
Ive found I do like taking pictures and the family for my next Bday said I could pick out a nice camera ,
but I dont want something way to hard to use , so what would be a great amateur DSLR, that you can play with without starting world war 3 by accident
I keep looking at them and its just confusing me more and more
any help would be great , I would prefer brand new also , but mint second hand is fine to look at also
Thanks
Travis
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good DSLR to start with
Started by SIVART, Feb 23 2011 04:23 AM
#1
Posted 23 February 2011 - 04:23 AM
#2
Posted 23 February 2011 - 04:59 AM
d60 looks like it has heaps of features, and high Megapixel, it's light, compatiable with all canon len's from the last 20+ years, as well as new EF-s lens.
pretty much any canon dslr will be a good starting point,
i had great success starting on a 20d years ago, 8MP was fantastic for poster size prints.
the price point for d60, the folding screen, the high MP, and the fact that if you need to upgrade you can take your lens with you really appeal to me, if i was starting out again, i would look here.
plus i think it does movies too.
pretty much any canon dslr will be a good starting point,
i had great success starting on a 20d years ago, 8MP was fantastic for poster size prints.
the price point for d60, the folding screen, the high MP, and the fact that if you need to upgrade you can take your lens with you really appeal to me, if i was starting out again, i would look here.
plus i think it does movies too.
#3
Posted 23 February 2011 - 07:20 AM
Don't be confused by (2much)'s response.
The D60 is a 2002 circa 3mp camera. The 60D however is a current model camera and much better in quality.
The enthusiast series 1000D/550D are a great set of camera's. A majority don't need more than the average point and shoot. I encourage you to look at the Canon G11.
The D60 is a 2002 circa 3mp camera. The 60D however is a current model camera and much better in quality.
The enthusiast series 1000D/550D are a great set of camera's. A majority don't need more than the average point and shoot. I encourage you to look at the Canon G11.
1997 RVR Hyper Sports Gear Manual.
#4
Posted 23 February 2011 - 12:13 PM
Im with MattL,
When i entered the DSLR scene a very good freind said get a 40D, me being a dumb C$NT got a D40, totally different. Nikkon and Cannon play whos the hooker with the dumbest name all the time.
Im used to the Nikkon now but i think Cannon have the best ergo, and also the best modding community.
Lenses are whats important and i have noticed that there are some big differences between the two (because in DSLR terms there is only Cannon and Nikkon).
Craig.
When i entered the DSLR scene a very good freind said get a 40D, me being a dumb C$NT got a D40, totally different. Nikkon and Cannon play whos the hooker with the dumbest name all the time.
Im used to the Nikkon now but i think Cannon have the best ergo, and also the best modding community.
Lenses are whats important and i have noticed that there are some big differences between the two (because in DSLR terms there is only Cannon and Nikkon).
Craig.
HID stands for "High Intensity Discharge", or if you dont adjust them properly, "Hi I'm a Dickhead".
#5
Posted 23 February 2011 - 12:15 PM
i looked at a G12 but ended up with t a P7000 for the missus, much betterer lense.
HID stands for "High Intensity Discharge", or if you dont adjust them properly, "Hi I'm a Dickhead".
#6
Posted 23 February 2011 - 11:31 PM
Sorry guys, my bad, I did mean 60d, and I think you would seriously struggle to get your hands on a d60 canon now, and it probably wouldn't be at any camera shop on the shelf. Anyway, as far as DSLR goes, nikon and canon will both be fantastic, I have canon pref, as I started there, and have added accessories from canon
#7
Posted 23 February 2011 - 11:40 PM
great info so far, I didn't know there was a 60D or D60 which where different cameras
I do like the option to do the movie also
I'm going to have to check out the 60D for sure
that G11 looks pretty good and well priced also , I do have a older Canon IXUS 80is which I really like to use but I know the SLR's are just that much better
I do like the option to do the movie also
I'm going to have to check out the 60D for sure
that G11 looks pretty good and well priced also , I do have a older Canon IXUS 80is which I really like to use but I know the SLR's are just that much better
#8
Posted 24 February 2011 - 12:47 AM
G11 and G12 are still light years behind in overall photo quaility compared to a full body DSLR.
They are great at what they are designed for, being much better than a normal P&S but i would only consider them as a complement to a full body DSLR.
They are great at what they are designed for, being much better than a normal P&S but i would only consider them as a complement to a full body DSLR.
HID stands for "High Intensity Discharge", or if you dont adjust them properly, "Hi I'm a Dickhead".
#9
Posted 24 February 2011 - 05:13 AM
I have recently purchased the cannon 60D and I'm loving it.. but my purpose is to go pro and I'm studying photography now looking at doing cert IV next so 60D is perfect for me also having studied it etc in the past..
There are others in the class not planning on doing cert IV who seem happy with their 550D's and 1000D's for their personal use... bit less to them than the 60D bit easier to use for those people who want that IMO.
There are others in the class not planning on doing cert IV who seem happy with their 550D's and 1000D's for their personal use... bit less to them than the 60D bit easier to use for those people who want that IMO.
Edited by MISGSR, 24 February 2011 - 05:13 AM.
Cheque it Chequered Flag Photography and more pics at www.facebook.com/ChequeredFlagPhotography
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#10
Posted 24 February 2011 - 10:20 AM
dont bother with a 1000D or 550D or any xxxD one, youll just kick yourself you didnt fork out the extra dosh for an xxD. 60D will be a good place to start, you should be able to get a body only for under 1k too (new).
I started off with a 50D and 2 months later they released the 7D, so I was a little bit peeved!! Ill be getting a 7D next. Lenses is where the money is at though, the next one I need is 8k!
I started off with a 50D and 2 months later they released the 7D, so I was a little bit peeved!! Ill be getting a 7D next. Lenses is where the money is at though, the next one I need is 8k!
Dan | Melbourne | 1994 CD5A / CE9A / E39A bastard child
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors
#11
Posted 24 February 2011 - 10:38 PM
that vid is ace Craig , so clear , light what you see on TV
is it a night school study Bron ? , Im thinking of doing welding first , then I might ask about doing something like this if its possible
it can be a very expensive hobby , 8K thats crazy , I remember Troy telling me that he was hiring some of his lenses
is it a night school study Bron ? , Im thinking of doing welding first , then I might ask about doing something like this if its possible
it can be a very expensive hobby , 8K thats crazy , I remember Troy telling me that he was hiring some of his lenses
#12
Posted 24 February 2011 - 10:40 PM
here is the canon IXUS 80is in action , probly half quailty from the 60D , I cant wait to try one out
#13
Posted 24 February 2011 - 10:53 PM
I got my 1000D free with the laptop i bought and i love it, ppl bag it out but if you know how to use it you can get awesome pics:
just a few shots from my 1000D on my first ever go on it, only changed one or two settings so i could pan (photobucket resized them )
just a few shots from my 1000D on my first ever go on it, only changed one or two settings so i could pan (photobucket resized them )
97 N23W HyperGear R
267awkw on 17psi
267awkw on 17psi
#14
Posted 25 February 2011 - 01:15 AM
There seems to be a lot of, for lack of a better word... "confusing" input being offered.
To give you my experience, I will explain the following
I derive my main source of income from Photography.
I work for myself as a Photographer
Canon D60 - Circa 2002
Canon 60D - Circa 2010
Nikon D60 - Circa 2006
Confusing yes. Why? Who knows.
Full Frame Bodies (True 35mm format)
Canon 1Ds / 5D series
Nikon D1x D2x D3x / D700 (FX Series)
Sports Factor Bodies 1.3 Crop (APS-H)
Canon 1Ds
Nikon D1H / D2H / D3H & D3S
1.6/1.5x Crop Factor "Enthusiast" bodes (APS-C)
Prosumer - Canon 10/20/30/40/50/60D
Consumer - Canon 300/350/400/450/500/550/600D
Enthusiast - Canon 1000D
Prosumer & Consumer - Nikon D40/50/60/70/70s/80/90
Enthusiast - Nikon D7000
What it all means
Simply Said.
A Full frame body with a 28mm Lens offers a true 28mm perspective
A Sports Body (1.3x crop) with a 28mm Lens offers a 36.4mm perspective and uses 79% of the optical capabilities of the lens by using less of the glass by extending the lens plane further from the sensor, which in turn increases the lens "size" (crude explanation)
A Crop Body (1.5 / 1.6 crop) with a 28mm Lens would offer a 42mm and 44.8mm perspective, respectively and as above uses less of the optics, but increases the "zoom" of the lens.
Now, before people ask me to hop off my high horse, which I'm assuming may happen, I will show you some of my work to back my statements.
Shot on a Canon 20D and Canon 10-22mm Lens -
Image awarded Canon AIPP APPA Gold Distinction Award in 2008
Shot on a Canon 5D and Canon 17-40mm F4L Lens
Shot on a Canon 40D and 24-70mm F2.8L
Shot on a Canon 5D MKII and 70-200mm F2.8L IS MKII
These are some of my images that I have shot as personal projects, work or for collaborations with designers etc.
A majority of the quality comes from the lens. However the sensor is only going to play a small part in the process. Anyone that says "you need more megapixels" is obviously confused and unsure of what they're talking about. Megapixels are merely a term for measurement of the number ox pixels recording photons of light as they mass through the lens onto the sensor plane. Having more pixels does not denote a higher quality image, it denotes more room for error in some respects as the physical limitations of sensor size:noise ratio is becoming a bit of an issue.
The sole reason one would buy an SLR would be that they're looking to photograph a majority of different subjects in differing situations and are looking for more latency in what they can do. The common misconception is that people assume that megapixels is going to help the quality of the images as the image is bigger, but its works against you in a negative. Personally, if I could carry a point and shoot for work I would. I've used a Canon G11 for a job before and the client was severely impressed with the results and never said "oh but you used a point and shoot". True image quality comes from the lens however there are many factors which will influence quality and I'll go over that now.
1 - Lens Quality; Simply said, if it costs more, chances are it has many fantastic elements in it to counter chromatic aberration and a number of other optical flaws created by using glass to tunnel light to a sensor.
2 - Sensor Quality; Despite my earlier sentiments, yes the sensor plays a part, however it's part in the whole process is minimal depending on your application. Most of the average "want better quality photos" users wouldn't know how to push the sensor to it's true potential
3 - Whether you're shooting in Raw or Jpg. Another convo for another thread
When it comes to price, I strongly suggest the Canon G11, it's stunning. Simply amazing... though if you want the next step the advice I've listed may help you in your hunt for a camera.
The Ixus80 Photo of the tyre and wheel lacks slight quality due to it being a little blurred from movement. (by the looks of it) and isn't really a testament to it's true quality. It's a flaw of a camera with an automated process.
I won't go into how much I've spent all up, but lets just say that some of the nicest cars on this forum have had less invested in them which is a scary thought!
MISGSR - Going Pro is a big step, not easy and is often mistaken for very easy, I still struggle some weeks and have really lived with a tight budget doing it all, but that's the joys of business. If you're interested and studying, get involved with the AIPP in your state (www.aipp.com.au) it's the best move I ever made.
to4garrett - in terms of G11/G12 being light years behind, I disagree completely. You could argue it all day long, or you could ask Damien Bredberg (www.damienbredberg.com.au) how he won a major Australian award with one. Image quality comes from how you use the camera. There are so many variables.
My only other advice is BUY LOCALLY. You can still find a great price locally and that way you get an Australian Warranty and Australian Support. Many people don't realise that Grey imports lack warranty and support and for those features should anything go wrong, you need to ship your body to HK at your expense, and back at your expense.
Hope that helps
To give you my experience, I will explain the following
I derive my main source of income from Photography.
I work for myself as a Photographer
Canon D60 - Circa 2002
Canon 60D - Circa 2010
Nikon D60 - Circa 2006
Confusing yes. Why? Who knows.
Full Frame Bodies (True 35mm format)
Canon 1Ds / 5D series
Nikon D1x D2x D3x / D700 (FX Series)
Sports Factor Bodies 1.3 Crop (APS-H)
Canon 1Ds
Nikon D1H / D2H / D3H & D3S
1.6/1.5x Crop Factor "Enthusiast" bodes (APS-C)
Prosumer - Canon 10/20/30/40/50/60D
Consumer - Canon 300/350/400/450/500/550/600D
Enthusiast - Canon 1000D
Prosumer & Consumer - Nikon D40/50/60/70/70s/80/90
Enthusiast - Nikon D7000
What it all means
Simply Said.
A Full frame body with a 28mm Lens offers a true 28mm perspective
A Sports Body (1.3x crop) with a 28mm Lens offers a 36.4mm perspective and uses 79% of the optical capabilities of the lens by using less of the glass by extending the lens plane further from the sensor, which in turn increases the lens "size" (crude explanation)
A Crop Body (1.5 / 1.6 crop) with a 28mm Lens would offer a 42mm and 44.8mm perspective, respectively and as above uses less of the optics, but increases the "zoom" of the lens.
Now, before people ask me to hop off my high horse, which I'm assuming may happen, I will show you some of my work to back my statements.
Shot on a Canon 20D and Canon 10-22mm Lens -
Image awarded Canon AIPP APPA Gold Distinction Award in 2008
Shot on a Canon 5D and Canon 17-40mm F4L Lens
Shot on a Canon 40D and 24-70mm F2.8L
Shot on a Canon 5D MKII and 70-200mm F2.8L IS MKII
These are some of my images that I have shot as personal projects, work or for collaborations with designers etc.
A majority of the quality comes from the lens. However the sensor is only going to play a small part in the process. Anyone that says "you need more megapixels" is obviously confused and unsure of what they're talking about. Megapixels are merely a term for measurement of the number ox pixels recording photons of light as they mass through the lens onto the sensor plane. Having more pixels does not denote a higher quality image, it denotes more room for error in some respects as the physical limitations of sensor size:noise ratio is becoming a bit of an issue.
The sole reason one would buy an SLR would be that they're looking to photograph a majority of different subjects in differing situations and are looking for more latency in what they can do. The common misconception is that people assume that megapixels is going to help the quality of the images as the image is bigger, but its works against you in a negative. Personally, if I could carry a point and shoot for work I would. I've used a Canon G11 for a job before and the client was severely impressed with the results and never said "oh but you used a point and shoot". True image quality comes from the lens however there are many factors which will influence quality and I'll go over that now.
1 - Lens Quality; Simply said, if it costs more, chances are it has many fantastic elements in it to counter chromatic aberration and a number of other optical flaws created by using glass to tunnel light to a sensor.
2 - Sensor Quality; Despite my earlier sentiments, yes the sensor plays a part, however it's part in the whole process is minimal depending on your application. Most of the average "want better quality photos" users wouldn't know how to push the sensor to it's true potential
3 - Whether you're shooting in Raw or Jpg. Another convo for another thread
When it comes to price, I strongly suggest the Canon G11, it's stunning. Simply amazing... though if you want the next step the advice I've listed may help you in your hunt for a camera.
The Ixus80 Photo of the tyre and wheel lacks slight quality due to it being a little blurred from movement. (by the looks of it) and isn't really a testament to it's true quality. It's a flaw of a camera with an automated process.
I won't go into how much I've spent all up, but lets just say that some of the nicest cars on this forum have had less invested in them which is a scary thought!
MISGSR - Going Pro is a big step, not easy and is often mistaken for very easy, I still struggle some weeks and have really lived with a tight budget doing it all, but that's the joys of business. If you're interested and studying, get involved with the AIPP in your state (www.aipp.com.au) it's the best move I ever made.
to4garrett - in terms of G11/G12 being light years behind, I disagree completely. You could argue it all day long, or you could ask Damien Bredberg (www.damienbredberg.com.au) how he won a major Australian award with one. Image quality comes from how you use the camera. There are so many variables.
My only other advice is BUY LOCALLY. You can still find a great price locally and that way you get an Australian Warranty and Australian Support. Many people don't realise that Grey imports lack warranty and support and for those features should anything go wrong, you need to ship your body to HK at your expense, and back at your expense.
Hope that helps
1997 RVR Hyper Sports Gear Manual.
#15
Posted 25 February 2011 - 06:38 AM
Thanks for the info Mat - I know it's not easy and it is what I am enjoying about it most.. as I've said before I'm a web nerd from way back... I've had the interest for a very long time as well as previous studies... I'm not just some random amateur with a DSLR - I'm serious about doing this all the way no matter how long it takes. Some people come already technical apt and of great interest in it on a high level.. others just want nice pics from an easy to use DSLR - I personally think the 60D, as do other photographers I have spoken to, is top of the starter range and not necessary for people without serious interest. In fact I would think it is an unnecessary outlay for someone who plans mostly on shooting in an auto mode when you can get what you need in that respect from a cheaper model in the range.
anyway... I'm guessing Trav was just after some normal peoples opinions without all the showy offy techno babble </jab>
As always I personally find your input of great interest
anyway... I'm guessing Trav was just after some normal peoples opinions without all the showy offy techno babble </jab>
As always I personally find your input of great interest
Cheque it Chequered Flag Photography and more pics at www.facebook.com/ChequeredFlagPhotography
Members ride thread
4G93T TD05 14B organic clutch OLD suspension - needs moar pounds and 15" wheels
Members ride thread
4G93T TD05 14B organic clutch OLD suspension - needs moar pounds and 15" wheels
#16
Posted 25 February 2011 - 08:14 AM
Bron I'm always happy to help where I can. It's something I know about. Camera's are like cars to many of the people here, their passion. I'm lucky to have both... *mumbles* two of the most expensive passions one can have.
One thing intrigues me, you assumed he will shoot Auto.. That's not always the case. I've been surprised by friends who bought SLR's and turned it straight to manual and learned to use it properly!
PS - I'm guessing you're who I spoke to on the phone the other day regarding the Alternator for the RVR?
One thing intrigues me, you assumed he will shoot Auto.. That's not always the case. I've been surprised by friends who bought SLR's and turned it straight to manual and learned to use it properly!
PS - I'm guessing you're who I spoke to on the phone the other day regarding the Alternator for the RVR?
1997 RVR Hyper Sports Gear Manual.
#17
Posted 25 February 2011 - 11:03 AM
well there's no one else there that will ever answer the phone! Although I do finally have an assistant, she is 17 and pronounces gasket as gah-sket
Pat Meek breezes thru every now and then now as we are mega busy so it might have been her you spoke to? So many calls for alternators and RVR's this week! I think I have a vague recollection trying to find out how different it is to Evo. Or was that another RVR guy :s
man i need another holiday already . . .
yeh half my class is people there who want to use their camera for a bit more than an auto mode.. but they are not intersted in taking notes on the more technical stuff the rest of us are.
Pat Meek breezes thru every now and then now as we are mega busy so it might have been her you spoke to? So many calls for alternators and RVR's this week! I think I have a vague recollection trying to find out how different it is to Evo. Or was that another RVR guy :s
man i need another holiday already . . .
yeh half my class is people there who want to use their camera for a bit more than an auto mode.. but they are not intersted in taking notes on the more technical stuff the rest of us are.
Cheque it Chequered Flag Photography and more pics at www.facebook.com/ChequeredFlagPhotography
Members ride thread
4G93T TD05 14B organic clutch OLD suspension - needs moar pounds and 15" wheels
Members ride thread
4G93T TD05 14B organic clutch OLD suspension - needs moar pounds and 15" wheels
#18
Posted 25 February 2011 - 11:47 AM
You would have sent it to JHH in Brisbane
I was the annoying guy
Feel free to contact me if you want to know anything camera related too.
I was the annoying guy
Feel free to contact me if you want to know anything camera related too.
1997 RVR Hyper Sports Gear Manual.
#19
Posted 01 March 2011 - 10:38 AM
#20
Posted 06 March 2011 - 10:18 AM
sorry about all the drool marks on your Camera today Nick
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