100 replies to this topic

[leon r]

If you look at our rear end arm design:



It NOT easy to manipulate our control arm attachment points. However... you might be about to shim and space the entire frame down, thus moving those attachment points lower! You just have to make sure that studs (coming out of the frame) are long enough, you might need to switch to longer studs.

But I am still not sure if you need to combat this camber "problem". It really isn't THAT bad!

Edited by leon r, 31 May 2012 - 01:39 PM.

[rexhunta]

Hmmm, looking at that subframe you've got up there, it's definitely not looking good.

Reason why I want to get the camber out is the tops of my wheels are sitting so far in it's rubbing on the plastic covers for the for the strut stanchions. If i can dial it out it won't rub, I've got 3mm spacers on there now, and it's maybe 1-2mm off it, but hard cornering and the wheel pushes back against it.

I'm picking up another set of wheels tonight, so i'll see if that fixes it any better,

Pete

[Rockabilly]

You could cut the inner pivot bracket off & move it up 6mm & add a 6mm plate where you see red.

Cheers !

[leon r]

Wouldn't you then stress the outer mount by misaligning it?

I wouldn't move just one point.

But then, I think that we have bigger problems with these rear ends: comming up with a better way to hold the differential! That front mount is too flexible! But that another topic

[Rockabilly]

Hi Leon,
The cam bolt on the inner link is for camber & toe, but you can't get enough neg camber out
when you lower it to look cool. The outer link can handle plenty of offset like a VW. I was
going to raise my inner links, but I'm not runing as low front & rear as I used to. My rear
axles are straight & my front control arms are 1/2" down at the ball joint. Lower than stock
but not as cool as before. Geometry is spot on & I'm runing harder spring rates. Less leaning.
Cheers !

[vuonguz]

hey my rear suspension in my rvr (kyb strut and kings springs) every bump i go over its bouncy, and makes a clunk noise, what can fix this problem

[Rockabilly]

hey my rear suspension in my rvr (kyb strut and kings springs) every bump i go over its bouncy, and makes a clunk noise, what can fix this problem

The rubbers up top clamp the shock either side of the top mount. The pipe sleave length is to limit how hard the rubber compresses.
If you can easily push the top left to right etc, the banging is because you have too much slack between the rubbers & the mount.
If that is your prob, just remove the top nut, pull the top rubber & sleave pipe out. Cut the sleave pipe a bit shorter to suit
removing excess slack. You don't need to remove the shocks or jack it up. A softer set of rubbers done up just right is more
comfy & a harder set makes the rear end react quicker. Too stiff up top at the rear can cause more understeer, but lean less.
I found a softer set of rubbers done up just right, made my rear more comfy & delays the rear a bit & it turns into corners well.
My spring rates is what determines how much my rear end dives, not the shocks. The shocks control the rebound & lean.
Cheers !

Edited by Rockabilly, 19 June 2012 - 06:01 AM.

[vuonguz]

http://www.ebay.com....6#ht_1080wt_986
http://www.ebay.com....b#ht_1128wt_917

have you guys notice this is this real?

[vr401]

Vuonguz
Yes, i have front replaced with KYB long time ago.

[vuonguz]

i need a suspension for mine now since its been revived, suspension on it is real bad i think the kybs got sr ones are out of gas or something i feel like putting standard on with good springs

[QIK-247]

UPDATE:

As most stock rvr owners know, our cars tend to hang in the nosebleed section height wise.
Today i decided to rectify this, i bought a set of near new kyb struts and pedders lowered springs of a 4gtuner member for a real good price as i thought it might sell better when it looks better (if that makes sense)
Anyway so i went up to a mates workshop and jacked the rvr up, with much angst we got the rear springs out and compared them to the new springs:
(Excuse Iphone pictures)

Finished Product:



Now that the springs have settled:


So happy with the outcome, i added camber bolts to the front and with the added strut bars front and rear this car has transformed into something i wish i hadnt sold

[leon r]

Guys, I still on a quest to find upgraded sway bars. Has anyone EVER seen an upgraded sway bar(s) for us?

What size sway bar do you have in the rear on Hypergear? Can someone ease measure it for me?

Thanks!

[Rockabilly]

Leon the rear bar is 0.787" 20mm. 24mm would be good.
Cheers !

[leon r]

Thanks! In that case they are the same sway bars as US spec wagons (5 and 7 passenger).

So OEM upgrade is not an option . Back to the aftermarket, is there anything out there? There is a company in Southern Ca that might be able make some custom sway bars, but I am trying to find someone local to that area to bring their wagon to the shop.

[FrontLever]

Okay guys, collective knowledge kgo.. What would be stiffer Kyb Shocks or standard Evo 7 shocks for the rear? This is combined with Pedders Lowered springs. I would like to remedy some of the boatyness (current set up = Kyb shocks/pedders lowered springs)

[Connor]

Hey guys,


I bought an RVR yesterday (I will do a intro ASAP) and I am looking at fitting so better suspension, so I have been researching and have found that Evo X front struts are the same as Evo 7-9 but the other interesting thing is that the Evo X uses a eyelet bottom mount on the rear so there is no need for any welding.


Just thought I would share this with you guys, i look forward to sharing my build with you all.

[leon r]

Okay guys, collective knowledge kgo.. What would be stiffer Kyb Shocks or standard Evo 7 shocks for the rear? This is combined with Pedders Lowered springs. I would like to remedy some of the boatyness (current set up = Kyb shocks/pedders lowered springs)

Standard EVO shocks are also KYBs . But EVO KYBs are MUCH stiffer than van KYBs!

Sounds like EVO X shocks are worth looking into!

[Rockabilly]

These CC Lancer bushes are in my RVR front control arms. Holes were 15mm.
I offset drilled them out to 22mm & roughed the inside with a die grinder
to give the grease somewhere to live. Result is 3mm of positive caster.
I'm just testing with these to see if I get better inner tyre wear. 225/50/17
[/URL]
Cheers

Edited by Rockabilly, 17 April 2013 - 12:42 PM.

[jack be nimble]

Guys, I still on a quest to find upgraded sway bars. Has anyone EVER seen an upgraded sway bar(s) for us?

What size sway bar do you have in the rear on Hypergear? Can someone ease measure it for me?

Thanks!

My old centura valiant had diabolical understeer. I had the standard rear sway bar doubled up (2bars where 1should be) and it transformed it to a pretty neutral traveller.

[jack be nimble]

Guys, I still on a quest to find upgraded sway bars. Has anyone EVER seen an upgraded sway bar(s) for us?

What size sway bar do you have in the rear on Hypergear? Can someone ease measure it for me?

Thanks!

My old centura valiant had diabolical understeer. I had the standard rear sway bar doubled up (2bars where 1should be) and it transformed it to a pretty neutral traveller.

2x20mm bars will have the equivalent torsional strength of a single 28mm bar.
Snap over steer for the meek and uninitiated. Woo hoo...