11 replies to this topic

[Seano_boi]

hey guys - First up i know the 63t conversion is the common path and i have taken that road before personally , but were both stickin with the 93T this time round , thanks guys

helping a mate by screwing together his 93t .

Jarred - GSRWRC im shooting this one out with big flags to you ! , LOL , and of course everyone else .



OK , Now . . . I have an engine to screw together . have built a few but to either standard or standard + forged specs , not high rpm ect like this one .



firstly i have torque settings for standard torque to yield head studs and standard main but when building for high boost / rpm i like to run arp . . . so i need the head , main and rod bolt torque settings running ARP .

also i see that people are running toyota head studs , why not run the '93t head studs from arp ? . i noted that RPW lists head and main studs for them and thats were i ordered his from ? . . . whats the difference anyone know ?

i also noticed that another member is building a '93t and used evo 1 2 3 ARP's on the bottom end . . . are they a straight fit the same as bottom end bolts or are they like the evo head studs and require drill and tapping ?

sooo . . . torque settings and also advice on Arp goodies please ! . i am hoping the arp ones from RPW are the correct ones


also what is involved in eliminating the oil squirters to increase pressure to the bottom end bearings ? . id like to do this as forged pistons will be happy enough on there own ?

will be running a meek modified ecu , large injectors and a gtpumps TD05 - 18 G . . . he has not purchased turbo yet but we both want to run mitsu and i want to go through Mark at GT pumps due to lots of past history . shooting for at least 200 min Kw at wheels and trying to have the least lag as possable . should we run 16 g large or what ? .

I Appreciate your guys input and opinions , as always , so all help wanted as i will be using all this info with some additional trick stuff on my build when i go ahead soon

Edited by Seano_boi, 30 April 2011 - 11:24 AM.

[Seano_boi]

also , cant you just add another one of the washer lookin things under the valve springs to increase its rate and make it wanna snap shut more ? . wont putting the spring under more tension before the valve moves increase the snap shut of the valve because its harder and aid in high rpm ? . or does it not work like that ? .

I was just wondering about it thats all , because there is not exactly a huge supply of valve springs for the '93T . . . if this does not work anyone know where i can chase him up some upgraded ones ? .

[BMGTZ]

also , cant you just add another one of the washer lookin things under the valve springs to increase its rate and make it wanna snap shut more ? . wont putting the spring under more tension before the valve moves increase the snap shut of the valve because its harder and aid in high rpm ? . or does it not work like that ? .

I was just wondering about it thats all , because there is not exactly a huge supply of valve springs for the '93T . . . if this does not work anyone know where i can chase him up some upgraded ones ? .

unless you are going to change the cams....the standard valve spring will be fine as long as you keep the revs within reason. 10k rpm is not within reason

If you change the cams....get the springs from the cam supplier. I think kelford do a good set...but havent reasearched that.

the arp main studs from an evo will screw straight in../.....60 ftlbs was the recommended torque spec.

regards the rod bolts.....use a stretch gauge as you will be surprised at how much the torque required to get the correct stretch will vary.

[Seano_boi]

regards the rod bolts.....use a stretch gauge as you will be surprised at how much the torque required to get the correct stretch will vary.

stretch gague ? . . . i use a snap on torque wrench . . .

also the cams planned for this engine are his choice of grind . because of the shortage of valve train components he had billets ground up to have everything standard but have 280 duration , its a lot less duration at 1mm tho . his plan was so they dont lift over stock mm but stay open for longer . . . im interested to see how they go because its a little left field but you need to try new things i suppose . was thinking because the ramp rates are shorter / steeper / faster acting ( go from open to close quicker than it would stock ) i thought that maybe it could benefit putting an extra washer shim thing or 2 in there to increase pressure . . . i dont even know if that would work i was hoping you guys might . . . proper springs would be the best if i can get a hold of some .

about the oil squinter delete how is that done ? .

Edited by Seano_boi, 30 April 2011 - 11:38 AM.

[BMGTZ]

oil squirter delete is done by installing a grub screw....with "it is never coming out grade of locktite"


try kelford for the springs

[GSRWRC]

Righto with the headstuds for extreme rpm/boost stuff I'd forget about garden variety 4G93T/3SGTE ARP (which aren't that flash anyway), drill the head out to 12mm Evo spec and slot in some L19 grade ARP goodness. Much more expensive though.

Talk to Kelford about springs. (Expect to spend over $300)

The Oil squirter delete was done in my engine by machining up some squirter 'blanks'. Another way to do this would be to start with an NA block.

200kW is achievable on a 16G, but will need 20psi, a 20G with a nicely backcut (say, 10 degrees) TD05H turbine would do better. And again, even better would be to introduce a TD06SL-2 to a 20G, but start to expect 1bar at around 4300rpm with that combo.

[jack be nimble]

you can shim valve springs, but you need to measure for coil bind at full lift on each spring and also you should equalize seat pressures on all valves. is a bit of old school to get better seat pressures, but i prob wouldnt do it if i pulling big revs and big boost

[Seano_boi]

The Oil squirter delete was done in my engine by machining up some squirter 'blanks'. Another way to do this would be to start with an NA block.

Cheers guys for the ideas and advice ! , Keep it comming !



So Jarred do we need to send the '93T arp head studs back or will they cope with this build ? . . . . Spool bottom end / cams / 18G / planned 20 ish PSI ? ? ? . * EDIT * Running the Mitsu MLS

is there any difference between the NA block and the Turbo Block asides from the obvious that turbo block has squirters ? . is the block the same inherent strenth ? . also do the DOHC heads fit the SOHC NA blocks ( cos there is hundreds of them around the place for cheap as chips ) or do i have to try find a DOHC NA block ? . . . This seems the best idea because i can build the engine up to a fully done bottom end , get the studs machined for the evo ones , ECT all before i have to take my GSR off the road . . .


I some how happened to stumble upon RPW's valve springs for the '93T last night , but i cant find any info on them except " Should handle high duration cams with big lift " . nothing about goin a couple thousand higher in rpm


neither of us plan to wring our engines kneck at 12000 RPM or anything like that , the plan is to just lift the limiter to be in the sweet spot for the 18G / 20G and have a set of cams . i earlyer said the cams were putting in this engine now ( should be interesting to see how they go ) what do you guys think . For me tho ill have kelford 212-B but at 270/270 instead of 270 / 260 because im not the type to try fiddle with grinds of my own when i can buy a grind that we all know works ! .

Also I found out on a phone call yesterday that he called Mark at GTpumps on friday and the 18G is ordered so i guess thats what were running on this first engine and wait and see for mine . im hoping we can squeeze around the 200Kw at the wheels out of this setup but yeah . should also keep lag down a bit more than the 20G i would hope . i dont mind running 20 psi with the forged bottom end , cams , and arp's and the 18G should be happy at that psi .


let us know what you guys think / have experienced with the RPW valve springs and your thoughts with runing the 18G .

Edited by Seano_boi, 01 May 2011 - 02:03 AM.

[GSRWRC]

Cheers guys for the ideas and advice ! , Keep it comming !



So Jarred do we need to send the '93T arp head studs back or will they cope with this build ? . . . . Spool bottom end / cams / 18G / planned 20 ish PSI ? ? ? . * EDIT * Running the Mitsu MLS

is there any difference between the NA block and the Turbo Block asides from the obvious that turbo block has squirters ? . is the block the same inherent strenth ? . also do the DOHC heads fit the SOHC NA blocks ( cos there is hundreds of them around the place for cheap as chips ) or do i have to try find a DOHC NA block ? . . . This seems the best idea because i can build the engine up to a fully done bottom end , get the studs machined for the evo ones , ECT all before i have to take my GSR off the road . . .


I some how happened to stumble upon RPW's valve springs for the '93T last night , but i cant find any info on them except " Should handle high duration cams with big lift " . nothing about goin a couple thousand higher in rpm


neither of us plan to wring our engines kneck at 12000 RPM or anything like that , the plan is to just lift the limiter to be in the sweet spot for the 18G / 20G and have a set of cams . i earlyer said the cams were putting in this engine now ( should be interesting to see how they go ) what do you guys think . For me tho ill have kelford 212-B but at 270/270 instead of 270 / 260 because im not the type to try fiddle with grinds of my own when i can buy a grind that we all know works ! .

Also I found out on a phone call yesterday that he called Mark at GTpumps on friday and the 18G is ordered so i guess thats what were running on this first engine and wait and see for mine . im hoping we can squeeze around the 200Kw at the wheels out of this setup but yeah . should also keep lag down a bit more than the 20G i would hope . i dont mind running 20 psi with the forged bottom end , cams , and arp's and the 18G should be happy at that psi .


let us know what you guys think / have experienced with the RPW valve springs and your thoughts with runing the 18G .

As far as I am aware the blocks are the same.

I'd be very wary of raising the rev limit of a 93T, as a long stroke engine - they just don't like revs. With my TD06Sl2 20G, and 212-B billets I have it set at 7500rpm. If you dial the cams in right you will get the 'sweet spot' where you want it (within reason).

No I don't think you'll need to send the 93T ARPs back. I'm not even running them, just 12mm Evo stockers.

[BMGTZ]

I believe SAM....nickname smutt is using the 3sgte studs and possibly the rpw springs{ check with him on the springs} and runs 25 psi through his engine. He has custom pistons that are pretty low compression.

Last I heard was 320 at the wheels HP.

[leadfoot]

if you want a sohc block to play with you can have my old block enigne was still running when i pulled it from the car. pm if interested.

[Seano_boi]

hey , thanks for the offer . i have an old SOHC engine at home , i must admit its been there since 03 so i dont know its condition and from memory the sump is off so it could be a boat anchor by now .

if i check it and need yours ill pm you , thanks for the offer .

ill keep the arp ones then thanks Jarrad because i have top and bottom studs for this build . ill probs go evo ones for mine tho and probs use an NA block like you said . From memory i think he had the rpm limit set at 8000 im not sure . . . that should be safe enough with this setup right or should we send the ecu off to meek to be changed ? .