378 replies to this topic

[bazeng]

Fuck yeah Baz, thats a nice bit of kit, is it 4g63 specific or does it do 93's too

It bolts into the cam cap threads. I'm sure you could modify to make it work (drill and tap holes to suit 4g93 valve spacing and cam cap bolt spacing).


Clever creation of a tool indeed.

[bazeng]

Ok update. While doing the valve stem seal swap, I noticed that I was getting little tiny bubbles into my cooling system on cylinder 3 only.

This made sense as my cylinder 3 was the lowest in terms of compression test (about 10% down from the other 3). Fortunately, the smoking idle (oil} lead to t he valve stem seal swap which lead to finding a leak into a coolant passage, which will now lead to a headgasket upgrade (copper oring). Will consider doing piston rings, gudgeon pin upgrade and big end bearings also....

Maybe a blessing in disguise.

Oh, and the valve stem seals I purchased (3 sets) don't fit my vr4. I had to order special ones for the double valve spring setup.

[DOUGMO]

what gasket are you running now baz? cometic?

 

imo a hks stopper is much more user friendly than a copper one, they can be tricky to get

sealed 

[bazeng]

what gasket are you running now baz? cometic?

imo a hks stopper is much more user friendly than a copper one, they can be tricky to get
sealed

Cometic. I believe it is a common issues. Not sure if it is a gasket or possibly a case of too much timing and high cylinder pressures.

Better for the gasket to take the damage as opposed to other parts taking the hit.

I've gone SCE copper with built in orings for all coolant, oil and cylinder openings.

Meant to be bolt in as long as prep is good...

I do have another cometic but would rather do it once ..
Will also do timing belt and possibly gudgeon pin upgrade at the same time.

Just when I thought I had it all back together for summer...

[perth vr4]

hi mate im interisted to know were you got the rear axles from thanks i need to strengthen the rear end of mine

[bazeng]

hi mate im interisted to know were you got the rear axles from thanks i need to strengthen the rear end of mine

Drive shaft shop mate...

[bazeng]

Vr4 is back in the garage. Head gasket due any day now. It's been a good month since working on her...

Will probably do:
1. Rs windows winders
2. Bonnet vents and latch
3. Trunk latch


I'm a bit over the mechanical aspect.. Get into the body..

[bazeng]

If the head is coming off, I might as well upgrade..

Copper SCE ics titan gasket with built in orings.

[bazeng]

Got a little itch... After 2 months of not touching the vr4. So I put in the front head light and drilled out the cf boot for the tail lights.. Get it ready for a roadworthy cert.

Edited by bazeng, 25 February 2017 - 04:35 PM.

[evopwr]

KEEN!

[bazeng]

So it's been 2 months since the last update.

Some progress. I'll update shortly. But basically got a hoist and now pulling the engine out for a big freshen up and some imporovenents.

Enjoying it much more with the new garage setup.

[ENGINR]

You've inspired me to re-look into doing my garage mate. Am hoping to get it built this year!

[bazeng]

Hi All, I broke my phone recently so my old one has come back out to play.

So after 4 months since discovering I had a head gasket leak, I decided that the garage needs to be freed up with other cars lining up for work. With that in mind, the VR4 is in the progress of having its engine removed.

The plan is to freshen up the engine (bearings, seals, rings, upgrade gudgeon pins and possibly fabricate and install a vacuum pump for crank case pressure improvements.

With the new addition of my latest Jack stand upgrade, things have been much more pleasurable to do.

I'm hoping to have the engine out later today. I unfortunately don't have the access to a full day of work on the car since I generally my little ones take me away from the cave and into colouring books and playing dress ups.

Enjoy the photos below




Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk

[bazeng]

Some new stuff.

Hoist and work bench.

Day 1 (1.5 hrs)
Engine removal in progress
Oil drained
Coolant drained
Sub frame removed
Exhaust removed
Transfer case removed




Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk

[bazeng]

Day 2. (1 hr)

Ewp removed
Dry ice intercooler removed and realigned to improve outlet pipe alignment to tb.
Will be cutting off bends and replacing with straighter pipe.

Trans fluid drained.


Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk

[bazeng]

Day 3 (1 hr)

Wheels and axles removed
Intake manifold half removed
Wiring and vac lines disconnected
Turbo lines and egt sensor removal in progress

Intake manifold is too big and will need to be removed if I drop the engine from out under the car with the transmission attached. The lower bolts are a pain to get to.

I might move the alternator back to the front of the block and mount the vac pump at the rear. Just need to find a crank pulley that works with the right diam to not overspin the vac pump.

More to be done today. Engine out hopefully.

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk

[White Knight]

Yes Barry!!!!!

[bazeng]

Day 4. (3 hrs)

It's out!!!
Intake manifold had to come out first
Dump pipe had to be removed
Trans came out with motor.
Alternator removed and will stay at rear of the block.

Now to get stuck into it!!
Thinking of a billet comp wheel upgrade also for improvement in spoolup.

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk

[CCEVO1]

Good work Baz, can't wait to see the vr4 at Calder again

[bazeng]

Stripping of the engine has been completed over several hours.

Inspection of the bearings show no major concerns with oil supply. I would be comfortable to replace the bearings and simply reinstall. Journal wear is minimal. No marks.

The rings and bore on the other hand show some damage due to heat? Cylinder 3 and 4 show most heat. Cylinder 2 shows some bore marks from a possible electrode? During a tune. We had a spark plug drop an electrode most likely causing the issue.

The rings look to have experienced a bit of expansion also.

I did race and tune this engine on multiple 30 degree plus days.

Having a half filled block may possibly be a contributor.

So the plan is to reuse all parts. Recoat the pistons (crown and skirts), check the head for softness and resurface. Hone the bore. Order New consumables. Paint inside of block. Reinstall.

I'll most likely increase oil pressure slightly also via the oil filter housing pressure relief valve.

Turbo oil feed to also come from the oil filter housing.

Next step is to strip down the head.



Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk