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32 replies to this topic

#21
WindeX

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plugs and plug gaps are very important once the boost comes up a little.
And I have some new leads if you need some


That sounds good mate, you got a few spares stashed out there? I need to get some plugs too, not sure if I will go the irridums again.

#22
milkandoj

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That sounds good mate, you got a few spares stashed out there? I need to get some plugs too, not sure if I will go the irridums again.

You cant gap iridium or platinum as the tips are so fine you'll damage them.
Stick with the copper plugs, all the guys in the US making good power on 1g and 2g dsm and vr4's use them over the rare metal plugs. And you can gap them down as you turn the boost up and it misfires. You'll prob end up around a 0.7 gap when over 20psi.

If you not going to run the 16g over 20psi your not going to feel the benefit of the 20g wheel stretch its legs, the 20g wheel is still efficient up to 26psi. Get that 16g running aroudn the 20-24psi range, but tuned properly.

Are the head studs a weakness like in vr4 motors? if so put some arps in, can be done one by one so don't need a new head gasket. you don't need to forge it to run some decent boost. Just get the ecmlink tuned nice and safe running lots of airflow.

Edited by milkandoj, 25 July 2011 - 03:14 PM.

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#23
WindeX

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You cant gap iridium or platinum as the tips are so fine you'll damage them.
Stick with the copper plugs, all the guys in the US making good power on 1g and 2g dsm and vr4's use them over the rare metal plugs. And you can gap them down as you turn the boost up and it misfires. You'll prob end up around a 0.7 gap when over 20psi.

If you not going to run the 16g over 20psi your not going to feel the benefit of the 20g wheel stretch its legs, the 20g wheel is still efficient up to 26psi. Get that 16g running aroudn the 20-24psi range, but tuned properly.

Are the head studs a weakness like in vr4 motors? if so put some arps in, can be done one by one so don't need a new head gasket. you don't need to forge it to run some decent boost. Just get the ecmlink tuned nice and safe running lots of airflow.


Picked up some copper plugs this arvo and will gap them down to 0.7 as that has been the most common suggestion I have found in my searching. Will also replace the leads as they are very old and nasty.

My tuner said that he was noticing the duty cycle get a bit high on the injectors which prevented him from winding it up any further, which means I might look at some later model evo ones to give me a bit more head room.

Its good to hear there is still a bit in the 16G as I didn't really want to go down that path just yet.

#24
EvoMyk

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Glad I read this! I'm running a big 16G too but only running 16psi and was planning to go 20G, think I'll just get an ecmlink and boost the sucker to about 22psi!

#25
milkandoj

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Glad I read this! I'm running a big 16G too but only running 16psi and was planning to go 20G, think I'll just get an ecmlink and boost the sucker to about 22psi!

Bu then you'll wish you had a 20g for the top end lol. But yeah you want to get the 16g running some decent boost.
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#26
EvoMyk

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Yeh true but I guess I can do it in stages this way, coz I get bored of power pretty quick and always looking for more haha....sorry didn't mean to hijack ur thread WindeX!

#27
WindeX

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New plugs gapped to 0.7 and new leads has made the miss go away so its now running great. Pretty sure my next step is going to be intake pipe and possibly check the turbo out to see that its still all healthy.

#28
DOUGMO

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awesome....good news mate!

GENUINE CE9A evo2 gsr track car
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winton 1:27.4 /// sandown 1:21.5 /// phillip island 1:49.2 /// haunted hills 59.1
/// eastern creek 1:35.4 /// winton short 1:01.4


#29
CLuTZ

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more booooooooost!

your not even in the zone for a 16g. pump it to 20psi and the torque and power will come up nicely


+1 boost is your friend. You can run crazy boost into these engines! Alot of tuners who don't know the recipe are afraid to lean (no pun intended) on them....


plugs and plug gaps are very important once the boost comes up a little.
And I have some new leads if you need some


^ Listen to DOUGMO! It's unreal what a simple thing like a spark plug gap can do to your ignition when you turn the wick up

Also if you experience any creep then you might want to consider an external wastegate. This is important when you have a big dump pipe aswell....

#30
nwr31

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And you can gap them down as you turn the boost up and it misfires. You'll prob end up around a 0.7 gap when over 20psi.

there is a better alternative to gapping down plugs, change the heat range of the plug. it can allow a bigger spark gap under higher boost
cc GSR + GT35/40 (work in progress)

#31
CLuTZ

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Try BP7ES over 18-20psi........Just make sure they're gapped a bit smaller then what they come out of the box...

From memory- I was running .6mm on my old VR4 with a GT30R and 25psi and never had a problem. Stock is 1mm IIRC

Edited by CLuTZ, 29 July 2011 - 05:13 PM.


#32
BMGTZ

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if the plug is showing discoloration of the metal...more than 1 or 2 threads up the end of the plug. you need to go to a colder heat range. regardless of how small the gap is.

simply put ...if you don't and you decrease plug gaps from recommended ...you run a very high risk of melting the electrode

I will dig out some new plugs that were showing 4 or 5 turns/threads. going 1 range colder made a vast improvement with the normal gap

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#33
WindeX

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Not getting any boost creep at the moment which is good, don't have a electronic boost controller.

First step is some evo 9 injectors to give me a little bump.

Second step is a intake pipe of some sorts, the forced performance one looks good but I am pretty sure it would require some mods to fix a Evo 3(FP aren't sure though), might go with a custom one, there are a few in the gallery that look damn nice. Almost everyone moves the battery which I guess is understandable as the stock route has a number of twists and turns.

More boost and wait for the bang!


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