Jump to content

Welcome to 4GTuner
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

1995 aus spec GSR

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
161 replies to this topic

#41
VIN18M

VIN18M

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,209 posts
  • LocationSydney
Looks good, what spec td05 is that? And we're you score the manifold?

#42
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD

Looks good, what spec td05 is that? And we're you score the manifold?


Thanks mate, I think it's a small 16g, it's got a gt pumps rear housing that is cast with a better port and I'm gonna buy one of those kando dynamics front housings with the 3 inch inlet and twist it around so it faces downwards, I think that'll be better than running the cooler pipe over the manifold. And the manifold I bought off the member HNF on here, he lives not too far from me so went and picked it up then modified it to suit external gate :) and I think I'll make a bracket up to brace the turbo to the block so hopefully the manifold won't crack although it looks better quality than the eBay ones!

Edited by Ian91, 26 July 2014 - 08:13 AM.


#43
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD
Any one know what power I might make with these mods? I've also got an ebc and a 3 inch turbo back

#44
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD

Looks good, what spec td05 is that? And we're you score the manifold?


Or did you mean the intake mani? I got that from a guy in Malaysia last year. Was pretty cheap and seems like very good quality :)

#45
VIN18M

VIN18M

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,209 posts
  • LocationSydney
Yeah I was talking about the turbo manifold, looks a lot better quality than most of the stainless ones you see around these days.
The 3" cover should make a nice turbo with the small rear. I'm running a kando 20g on my 93t and I made 210fw kw, but the response on yours should be better.

#46
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD
I'd be happy with that figure, not to sure if it's a good idea on stock bottom end though haha. I've also got a set of 264 cams and adjustable gears to go on too

#47
VIN18M

VIN18M

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,209 posts
  • LocationSydney
Yeah I'm running 290s but about to get rid of them and go back to stock. Also running 23psi on a forged bottom end.
Not sure about that turbo and a stock bottom end, might want to get a 14psi spring for the external...

#48
VIN18M

VIN18M

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,209 posts
  • LocationSydney
Where'd you get the cams? Are they re grinds?

#49
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD
Yea will probly set the ebc to 12psi or so. I sort of an using this engine as a mock up so when I forge my other motor I can just swap everything over :)

They are off eBay, that jasma brand, read good feedback on them from other car forums, mostly Malaysian ones and Honda forums and stuff like that but thought I'd give them a go

#50
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD

Finally got to the stage where I could turn it over, was worried that I would have to muck around to get it to fire since basically all the bolt ons have been changed. To mine and my mates surprise it fired first go :) ran abit rough; don't think the isc is working (?) had to adjust the throttle plate to be open a tiny bit to idle.

 

Booked it in to get the exhaust mated up to the dump; got a new 3inch from dump to cat, with a bung for a wideband later on.

Was able to drive it home from the exhaust shop, felt so good to be behind the wheel again; espesially with the new seats and all the new engine parts :)

 

so now I basially have to:

 

mount front bar and oil cooler properly

tidy up wiring and stuff

check for boost leaks and oil/ water leaks

put the interior back together, including stereo, gauges, boot carpets and battery

fit the fuel pump and rear LSD

Fit the evo front brakes with new rotors, pads and lines.

 

then I'm going to take it round to Chapmans Auto in Cooroy, they have an AWD dyno.

hopefully they can setup the boost controller, adjust the idling and timing and stuff, check afr's and do a few power runs.

 

then once I know everything is working I can get started on the forged engine and crank the boost haha.

 

 

Thanks for reading :)



#51
BYBY5L

BYBY5L

    Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,047 posts
  • LocationMelbourne
I like ya progress man, you can up ya boost to 15psi, it'll still be a reliable car,
And im curious to know what power ya put down, I have the same mods but never put it on a dyno, just know its a fun combination.

#52
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD
Thanks mate, yea I think it'll be fun when it's all going right.

Tried to install the fuel pump today AEM 320l/h and it is too long, end of the pump hits the bottom of the tank before the cradle is anywhere near being seated on the tank. Is there something I'm doing wrong or does this pump just not fit?

#53
BMGTZ

BMGTZ

    Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,554 posts
  • Locationsouthside of perth WA

you need the broom handle mod!!

 

get broom....cut off handle. You need a piece of handle about 300mm long and made of wood.  Hide remains so you cant be blamed.

 

assuming your tank is empty..get your cradle and pump assembly and put some grease on the bottom of it so it leaves a mark.

 

usually it is the little bumps inside the tank that hit.... look inside tank for mark ....you will see a couple small round bumps poking upwards from the bottom of the tank these usually have to be flattened.  place the handle against one and smack handle with hammer. If the grease mark isnt on the bump....smack it where it is leaving the grease

 

repeat till the fucker fits...


BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally

I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.

 

 


#54
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD
I did think I would have to do something along those lines. Good thing I recently snapped the rake handle haha will do the trick I think.

Thanks Brian

#55
Miniman_alis

Miniman_alis

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 219 posts
  • LocationBrisbane
I modded the cradle to fit my pump in that was too long.

Can you show us how you got the evo 8 seats to fit? What rails etc did you use?

#56
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD

I modded the cradle to fit my pump in that was too long.

Can you show us how you got the evo 8 seats to fit? What rails etc did you use?

Yea I had to remove the lower mount and drill a new hole further down. The pump fits the cradle no worries, just the whole assembly is too long to fit in the tank now. I'm gonna do what Brian said and beat some extra space lol.

For the seats I used genuine evo 1-3 rails and redrill the holes where they bolt to the seat. The seats are the right widt from left to right just slightly longer so you have to redrill 2 holes.
On the seat base you have to cut off the spacers welded over the holes and the mounts for the evo 8 rail handle. I need to pull one back out and take pics for someone else. There is a thread in evo/gsr section which I'll add them to.

#57
Miniman_alis

Miniman_alis

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 219 posts
  • LocationBrisbane
http://www.4gtuner.c...ess#entry286925

That's how I did it.

#58
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD
I was thinking about that but thought I'd never be able to go back to stock if I had to. Although I guess I could refit the standard one with abit of hose too. I'll try Brian's method before I cut anything on the cradle.

#59
3zercrowd

3zercrowd

    Donating Member

  • Administrators
  • 8,388,607 posts
  • LocationTownsville

To whoever took the time to work out Evo 7 radiator hoses work on a gsr, much love :P

null_zps356a81be.jpg

 

He he..thats nice and a great idea.... OR if you dont like a lot of silicone/bling/whatever....OR if your in bumfuck nowhere that doesn't sell the radiator hose that you want (like Townsville), there's the CC Auto lancer lower radiator hose...PN: CH1809. You need to cut off about 4 inches or so off the hose where it connects onto the radiator so it clears the shifter cables, but it does the job and is real cheap!

 

Pic below:

 

Yes the hose labels are stuck to my bar fridge! LOL :P

 

Good work on the build so far!

Attached Thumbnails

  • Radiator hose for cc lancer.JPG

:lol: QUOTE OF THE YEAR>>>

BTW... does anyone else have a sore ass??


Dane/Lancer GSR

[email protected]!!!

STILL Needs more Kilowatts!

Members rides> http://4gtuner.com/s...read.php?t=1910

#60
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD
Lol, thanks mate, just gotta sort this issue I have and it should be pretty fun :)


1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users