161 replies to this topic

[jack be nimble]

Its only a 380, so not anything special. Mine didnt have one, the parts car did have one. I havent swapped a roof and it would have gone to scrap otherwise. So i have picked up a skill.
It cannot leak. It has a full gutter under it and a drain in each corner. Modern technology!

[evo-gsr]

The evo had the same setup. Guess what.....still leaked.

[Ian91]

Ok so I’m gonna write a to do list here so I can check it off and ask questions if I need too.

Finish stripping engine bay to paint (excluding engine and brake lines). Anyone know if you can remove the engine loom from the bay without having to get the a/c heater boxes out from under the dash? It seems like the loom goes through the firewall and is trapped behind these parts.

Paint the engine bay, engine mounts, crossmember, strut brace, catch can, intake manifold and valve cover.

Make aluminium sheet cover for l/h engine bay, to hide the a/c, power steering and the brake lines/ abs unit + paint to match.

Reassemble brake and clutch master to car/ upgrade brake master to evo one I have somewhere.

Re install looms and tuck/ tidy where possible. Wire in IAT sensor for link ecu. Run loom for aem wideband sensor/ fit sensor to exhaust. Anyone have a good condition engine loom for a gsr while mines out? A few of the plugs are old and brittle and cracked/ broken.

Refit intake manifold, rerun vac hoses and refit fuel rail, new fuel filter and refit fuel reg.

Reassemble turbo front cover and lines, refit the engine.

Clean up and reinstall a/c pump, condenser, dryer and lines. Get new belt.

Refit intercooler and piping.

Refit radiator, hoses, overflow and shroud/ fans + replace damaged fan.

Refit intake pipe, pod filter and filter bracket/ cover.

Refit catch can + make up new line to intake pipe.

Refit windscreen wiper assembly, washer bottle and get new blades.

Refit engine mounts and cross member.

Install ecu and load base map.

Refit headlights

Test fit front bumper and two, trim where needed (not much by the looks of it)

Paint bonnet, front bumper, front guards, front lip, rear bumper, rear pods, side skirts, door handles, repaint window frames factory black (satin black??)

Touch up paint on previously painted panels where needed.

Finish off fitting bonnet pins.

Install aem wideband in cabin

Modify and install oil filter relo and cooler.

Repaint wheels/ touch up rash.

Get new tyres, something longer lasting than the falkens.

Replace roof (I should do this before I finish painting if I can find one)

Flock remaining interior plastics, retrim roof lining, repair/ flock recaro seat backs (front)

Install bolt in roll cage and get black padding. Mod plate.

Refit speakers and get bluetooth head unit.

Trim parcel tray.

I might buy some 6x9s for the parcel tray and refit the splits into the rear doors. I don’t want to have to take in and out the sub/ amp on race days but would like some base.

Make up dual caliper brackets for the rear hubs, fit calipers, install hydro and run lines.

Get car tuned.

Have fun, kill engine, build forged engine. Repeat (hopefully not) lol.

Thanks for reading

[GSR 95T]

Yep, sure can remove your Engine harness/loom without taking out the Heater/AC setup. That is ofcause if your using a stock GSR engine loom and ecu.

There is 6 connections in total from memory. 3 go to ECU, 2 go to the dash harness, and one go’s to the engine start relay that’s under the stereo .. this is probably the one you thinking is the hard one. But it sits lower then the A/C gear. You do have to pull the passenger side foot well carpet down and lift the firewall insulation up to get to it but it’s easy as.

[Ian91]

Yep, sure can remove your Engine harness/loom without taking out the Heater/AC setup. That is ofcause if your using a stock GSR engine loom and ecu.

There is 6 connections in total from memory. 3 go to ECU, 2 go to the dash harness, and one go’s to the engine start relay that’s under the stereo .. this is probably the one you thinking is the hard one. But it sits lower then the A/C gear. You do have to pull the passenger side foot well carpet down and lift the firewall insulation up to get to it but it’s easy as.

Of coarse, I forgot about that that thing, that will be my issue! Cheers

[ENGINR]

I've got no reo behind my evo2 bumper. I use a cusco air deflector to hold it up.

[Ian91]

I've got no reo behind my evo2 bumper. I use a cusco air deflector to hold it up.

So just bolted at the ends to the guards and then the air deflector is the panel around the bonnet latch yea?

[ENGINR]

Yep. That's how mine is mounted. I took the lower reo out and just used the upper reo to attach to the air deflector.

[Ian91]

Engine bay is painted, just have to do the bolt ons to match and we are ready to assemble (maybe) lol


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[evo-gsr]

Looking good Ian! Almost there!!

[Ian91]

Got the turbo mounted back up yesterday, all plumbed in and exhaust bolted back on. Cleaned and refitted the a/c compressor. Painted the power steering bracket, radiator brackets, bonnet hinges, still have to do the strut brace, oil catch can and intake manifold.

After installing the a/c compressor and the turbo I test fitted the new hot side intercooler piping and found it doesn’t clear the a/c compressor, it wasn’t fitted when I mocked up the pipe and I misjudged it’s size :/ hopefully I can chop off the extra brackets on the side of the compressor and it will clear, also hope fully the engine will sit slightly higher once the crossmember and poly mounts are refitted.



Should be able to carry on with it this arvo and get the condenser, power steering, turbo intake, wiring looms, brake master/ booster and clutch master.

I have to wire in the IAT sensor for the link ecu, I’m guessing that will be wired into the AFM plug but can anyone tell me what wires I need to hook into for that? Cheers

Otherwise everything seems to be going ok, waiting on fittings for the oil cooler/ filter relo to come in too.

Side note, does anyone have en evo bonnet spare? I’m tossing up the idea of getting a genuine one before I paint this shitty f/g one I have.


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[NFG]

Looking good Ian, doing some great work.

 

Now that the obligatory congratulations message has been posted, I'll ask my question... Haha.

How did you mount your pillar gauges (photo WAY back on page 2)? I'm trying to sort this out for my boost gauge, but hate the pods that I can find. Your's looks nice, and I want to copy.

 

Cheers man. 

[Ian91]

Looking good Ian, doing some great work.

Now that the obligatory congratulations message has been posted, I'll ask my question... Haha.

How did you mount your pillar gauges (photo WAY back on page 2)? I'm trying to sort this out for my boost gauge, but hate the pods that I can find. Your's looks nice, and I want to copy.

Cheers man.

Thanks man, it’s getting there.

The gauges came with the type of bracket in the link below, I just removed the foot and bent the 2 screw holes out so they sat flat on the pillar trim.

https://goo.gl/images/P1bXBH

Edited by Ian91, 11 July 2018 - 11:36 AM.

[Ian91]

Milestone update!!

The car runs and drives and has even been dyno tuned!!

This event wasn’t without issues though :/

I dropped the car off to my mechanics house after work, because that was easier for me to do with my work. He was driving in the next morning and the bonnet flipped open on him (not his fault, I opened the bonnet when I got to his house to check a coolant leak, obviously didn’t latch it down properly). Anyway the windscreen was smashed, the roof copped a couple of dints.

The window got replaced and the tuner managed to find time to get it on the dyno for me.

Then the next issues, not major but still a limiting factor, the engine was missing at high revs once he started tuning in boost, also it kept blowing off one off the cooler pipes.

He managed to get some zip ties around the pipe to stop it blowing away from the cooler, seemed to have done the trick, I’ll fix it up later.

Car made 180hp on 10psi, not a lot but it feels faster and drives better than it ever has.

I was able to fix the miss by gapping the plugs down to .5 instead on .7

Also got the front end all fitted up, bonnet is pretty haggard now, I think I’ll refit the stock bonnet and fit a blitz or dmax style vent to it.

It needs a lot more work but I slapped it together so I could go race at lakeside tomorrow




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Edited by Ian91, 21 July 2018 - 06:28 AM.

[evo-gsr]

Bit of a shit go there mate......I bet him shit himself when the bonnet flipped up. Had that happen to me once before at speed in my old Legnum.
Spray some hairspray on the offending pipe before you slide it on and then clamp it up. Will help it to grip.
Do you have a rolled lip on the end of the pipe? If not you can put some weld tacks around it to give the clamp something to grab behind and stop it slipping off.

[ENGINR]

Did you have the aerocatch latches on the bonnet when it flipped up?

 

I find they're a very visible reminder as to whether the bonnet's latched down or not.

Edited by ENGINR, 26 July 2018 - 11:43 AM.

[brisvr4]

I use a bit of swaged stainless wire bolted to the front of the bonnet and secured to the radiator support panel with a quick release catch as a safety on mine. Bonnet will only ever lift about 100mm while it is latched.

Good insurance!

I'll get a couple of pics later when im home.

[Ian91]

Did you have the aerocatch latches on the bonnet when it flipped up?

I find they're a very visible reminder as to whether the bonnet's latched down or not.

Nope haha, the pins aren’t installed because I replaced the front cut and didn’t get around to refitting the pins :/

[Ian91]

I use a bit of swaged stainless wire bolted to the front of the bonnet and secured to the radiator support panel with a quick release catch as a safety on mine. Bonnet will only ever lift about 100mm while it is latched.
Good insurance!
I'll get a couple of pics later when im home.

That’s a good idea, no need for pics, unless you want to share for others. Cheers mate

[Ian91]

Got some new wheels today, specs in the pic. Hope the tyres aren’t too big. We will see.

Also got a new roof skin and have had the intercooler piping tidied up.

Work has been slow on the gsr because I bought a race car project with a friend.

Incase you can’t tell, it’s a Mitsubishi sigma, or what’s left of one haha. It’s an ex 24 hour of lemons car, fully stripped, full roll cage, race seat, no windows, besides the plastic one in the front. Engine has had the block shaved, head ported, quad Yamaha r1 carbs. Weighs 800kgs and spins the wheels in 4th.

Side note, the crank pulley came loose and self destructed so if anyone has one tucked away let me know. Cheers




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