29 replies to this topic

[Resurgance]

Photos on next post.

Anyway I think Ive got an essential plate missing between the wedge plate with the super shiny back and the first friction plate, as I can't in my one see how this can actually wedge since the friction plate is held in place so it can't rotate.  Am thinking this mystery plate that I don't have sticks to the shiny side of the wedge plate, and also sticks to the side of the coupler body when there is a difference in the coupler, then wedge plate wedges etc.

Also the small ID side of the cone washer is against the shiny wedge plate, and the large OD side is against the friction plate, am guessing this is wrong way round, but it is semi hard to see from images.

any help would be great.  In meantime I'll use a VCU will prob find that I will have to wrestle car a little more but my times should be good now

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Edited by Resurgance, 21 April 2018 - 05:13 AM.

[Resurgance]

[Resurgance]

OK correct me if I'm wrong;

At first I thought that the ball bearings and wedge plate engaged and released the friction discs depending on direction of rotation.  But how can this work?  What am I missing? The body of the coupler is fixed, and also the friction plate closest to the wedge plate by means of tabs, so the ONLY moving parts in the coupler is the larger spline and 'bottom' friction plate right?

So the ball bearing and wedge plate assembly now I am thinking is ONLY for taking up the slack of the spring washer when it flexes??

 

So the large washer shown in image 13 and 14 at the beginning of this post is ONLY for preloading the spring washer??  In which case I can just make one and put it in there to adjust breakaway torque?

 

But then this coupler then will be the same as a VCU in that it tries to link the front and back wheels at all times?  I had thought it was supposed to release when making a tight turn somehow but unless I'm missing something big (definitely possible!) this is just a plate version of a VCU and thats it.  With the advantage of locking up instantly and predictably instead of waiting for the silicone to get a grip in a VCU.

 

Thoughts??

[CanadianCD9A]

Preload in the Adelia is changed by adding or removing ball-bearings - in other words, don't mess with it, unless you REALLY know what you're doing.

If it's failing, it would act like a worn out rear LSD would; allowing one end to spin up since it can't lock the axles together.

I recall once upon a time seeing one of these rebuilt with Cusco plates. I've tried and tried, but I couldn't find the obscure Japanese journal where someone showed how to do it. Worst case, just pull it apart, take some pictures of the discs, take some measurements, and call Cusco.  

 

Resurgance, I don't have mine here to disassemble - is the piece you're thinking about not pictured in the original post?

The Adelia is different from the viscous since it is only locked when torque is applied from the engine. Look at the ball bearings - there are little pockets for them going in one direction, so the locking only engages in one direction. It's effectively a 1-way LSD. On braking, or turning (without throttle), or ebrake turning, it acts like an open diff. You can't do ebrake turns with a viscous either, they lock up and ruin your fun. As soon as you apply torque, the Adelia locks, and you're off. No waiting. You don't buy the Adelia because it locks better (which it certainly does), you buy it because of when it's NOT locking.  The Cusco/Kaaz/ATS plated center diffs are all 2-way, so they would lock on braking and such, too. 

Edited by CanadianCD9A, 21 April 2018 - 10:54 PM.

[Resurgance]

Thanks for that, Well I just can't see how this thing works.  I'm sure you'd understand if you saw one in pieces and I can understand your reasoning behind having the thing lock in one direction only, but I just can't see how this thing works??  For example.  The whole body is fixed, the ball bearing carrier which is also the end plate with the torx screws in it, and the rest of it.  Internally attached to the end cover is the spline with the smaller diameter which has notches for the 'top' friction disk. THERE IS NO WAY for the 'top' friction disk to move in relation to the ball bearing wedge plate.  The movement is done ONLY by the 'bottom' friction plate which is turned by the larger diameter spline from the other half of the centre diff.

Unless of course I am missing a critical piece that somehow engages against the side of the body to turn the ball bearing wedge.  Other than that in mine, the ball bearing wedge, 'top' friction plate and 'top' cover are all unable to turn in relation to each other.  

I am definitely missing a washer according to diagram but unless this engages against the side of the body to turn the ball bearing wedge I just cant see how this operates to freewheel.

I openly admit that I may be missing something but am keen to hear about what that something is??

[Resurgance]

Unless! I have a variation that is effectively a 2-way, by using a 'top' friction disc with tabs on the inside?

Can anyone confirm that their 'top' friction disc (the one closest to torx screws and top plate) has tabs?  

If it DIDNT have tabs then it could turn the ball bearing plate 'wedge' and it would definitely squish the cone washer and press the clutch tight together.

In my one to be clear;

- Both friction discs have internal tabs, so the top one is UNABLE to turn by input from the rotation of the bottom disc that is turned from the larger spline.

[Resurgance]

Anyone?

[Resurgance]

Seriously is there no one that knows anything about these things they seem to be the ultimate upgrade to good old evo 1-3 and VCUs are getting scarce in good condition.  Ive got a heap of old gear am keen to keep it going and this seems like the answer but its dead in the water. dang nam it

[jack be nimble]

Bmgtz is on facebook often. Runs a early evo closed group. Maybe worth getting him there. I dont know anyone else who might know

[Resurgance]

Cheers Jack be Nimble!