233 replies to this topic

[AuSpec Vr4]

definetly is a piece of work, i've been interested in putting my radiator in the front more but i still like my air con, maybe i should get a project car to hack up, haha.

Just one thing though, when the idle went rough in the video, your turbo moved quite a bit, i couldn't imagine that it could be bad for the welds or the manifold, if this were my car, i would be running a bracket from the turbo to the head somewhere so the turbo and engine moves all as one and you don't end up with a cracked manifold, it would be a shame. Nice Evo, keep it up.

[EV0300]

cant wait to see this thing in action been following it for a while, it gona be a beast once its done.

[soldave]

Thanks for the comments guys. Keeps me motivated in the final stretch

Just one thing though, when the idle went rough in the video, your turbo moved quite a bit, i couldn't imagine that it could be bad for the welds or the manifold, if this were my car, i would be running a bracket from the turbo to the head somewhere so the turbo and engine moves all as one and you don't end up with a cracked manifold, it would be a shame.

Nice observation there. Might just run in by a few people (including JM Fabrications, and see what they thing). To be honest, some of that movement might have been down to the vband at the turbine outlet not being tight. Once it was tightened it sounded a lot nicer and smoother. Well, it did until another old v-band clamp further downstream broke

[soldave]

I also nearly managed to electrocute myself and blow up the car in one foul swoop. Had braided fuel return line and was doing some rerouting to troubleshoot back from a FPR on the firewall to the stock one on the end of the fuel rail. Buddy said "see if you can get your hands in there and pull it through. Stuck my arm under intake manifold to pull it though. Braided hose pulled through and right onto the starter motor. Cue huge sparks and me not being able to feel my left hand for about 10 minutes. Sparks coming from a fuel line is not really what you want. Not fun!

[evo-gsr]

^ Holy Shit....Be careful Dave...You may end up like this bloke who tried to steal copper from a railway sub station if you keep that up...

[Qik-1.8]

very nice work mate im impressed what power figure you hoping ?

[soldave]

No dyno here so having to use the Blitz power meter for a guesstimate. Would say my aims are 550-600bhp before meth. If I use meth injection then definitely over 600bhp but the OS Giken twinplate is only rated to 600 so I'd have to start looking at new triple plate, better intercooler, intake manifold etc... Much more expense.

I'd like to get sub-11s in the 1/4 mile.

[soldave]

200hp at idle... you know you're making real power when you can do that!

A little more work done on the Evo tonight. Did some more playing around with the ECU and got rid of a nagging check engine light from first startup. Tough to confirm, as I've got an unclamped v-band upstream of my wideband O2 sensor, but idle AFRs seem to be bang on at stoich.

Even more promising is my cooling system. Put in my Purple Ice (to increase coolant surface tension) and bled the coolant system tonight. Found that even with the fans unplugged so they wouldn't come on the car was keeping cool at idle. Temps were going up to 80C and then as soon as the thermostat opened they were dropping back down to mid 70s. That's a hugely encouraging sign that the cooling system I've got in place is going to work pretty well. We tried revving the car and warming it up and couldn't get the temperatures to rise above the low 80s. So all good stuff.

All I need now is a replacement 3" v-band for the one that broke and the car will be good to move again. Typically, I don't think they are available on the whole island, so I'll have to get one sent from China or the States.

[soldave]

Doing a bit more research into the drain line running close to the exhaust manifold. Was looking at this thread on EvoM:

http://forums.evolut...-vs-silver.html

If this stuff is what I have around the drain line at the moment (the aluminium part is closest, with the rubber connecting to the lower aluminium part not too far away either), then I might be good.

Might try and some of this stuff on some metal and apply direct heat and see how much is transferred.

[bazeng]

Looks great!!!!

[soldave]

Thanks, but it looks ok. Once it's down and ready to go on the road full-time (well, until it breaks down again!) I'm getting the best car washing company on island to come and do their best on it. Full treatment, inside & out, claybar, steam cleaned interior, engine bay, the works...

Then it will look great!

[EvoMayhem]

200hp at idle... you know you're making real power when you can do that!

Erm, a bit of 'copy and paste' again Dave? Think that bit's for another forum!

Just noticed the change in wheels. (Yeah I know, a bit slow on the uptake) What happened to the old gold Advans? Personally, I think the old ones looked better.

Edited by EvoMayhem, 02 February 2012 - 09:41 AM.

[soldave]

Erm, a bit of 'copy and paste' again Dave? Think that bit's for another forum!

Just noticed the change in wheels. (Yeah I know, a bit slow on the uptake) What happened to the old gold Advans? Personally, I think the old ones looked better.

The Gold advans were sold pretty quickly after I got the car. Quite a few say they prefer the old ones and they don't like my new wheels, but they're 17" (so I could use the Star Specs I had), they had the right offset to go over the FC brake calipers, and were 4-lug. And they were the only ones that had that combination even slightly reasonably priced means they're the ones I've got!

Interior put back together today. Going v-band hunting tomorrow.

[soldave]

Engine running nice, although I have a small rattle and leak from one of the wastegates. Could the the fire ring rattling; will take it off and apart, and make sure everything is ok inside it.

Have only been able to do very limited testing, and won't be able to do anything for a couple of weeks for personal reasons, but what I've done so far I'm pleased with. In 3rd gear I was getting positive boost by about 2700rpm at 1/2 throttle. And in the run I've logged below (and attached, to unzip and view with ECMLink) I was getting 0.6bar out of just 44% throttle. Gonna be damn quick once it's tuned and running at full power.

Excuse the GMIAT and Wideband figures not reporting right. I had set up my Ubuntu version of ECMLink right, but the Windows version which logged this last run wasn't set up properly.

Expect some more logs and updates in a week or 2.

 1st-log.zip   24.9KB   100 downloads

[soldave]

And the finishing touch to the car: a carbon bonnet. Don't think it's any lighter than the stock one, but that carbon definitely looks the part.

[EVL20T]

Ooooo, ive seen a carbon bonnet where the vents actually came off, or maybe its coz they are fibre glass and nor carbon fibre hmmmm

[soldave]

Car at the bodyshop getting new windshield put in (which I needed) and am getting them to do the Aerocatches too as I'm a little nervous about cutting into the carbon hood.

Once it's back I need to take apart one of the wastegates and just check the diaphragm on it as it's leaking a little while at idle. And I'm also going to probably re-make the top part of the oil drain line from the turbo before I really get into the boost. At the moment it's aluminium going to a rubber flexible part and then back to aluminium at the bottom. And it's all wrapped with heat reflective tape. My only little concern is that it passes about 1/2-3/4" in front of the exhaust manifold. I have no idea what kind of heat transfer would occur when I'm at full boost (which, as it's gonna be a drag car will usually be no longer than around 10s or until something breaks (probably sooner!)), but exhaust manifold temps would be around 1600F. The melting point of aluminium is 1200F or so and, of course, rubber is much less. My concern is how much heat would transfer from the exhaust manifold to the aluminium and, more importantly, the rubber. The heat reflective tape will have an effect, but how much I'm not sure.

The plan is probably going to be to remake the upper part of the drainline in stainless steel, and have a flange made up for it. It'll probably be overkill, but it would suck for the drainline to come apart because of temperatures or something.

[soldave]

I'm baaaack! And so is the car, albeit in a pretty poor quality picture.

So the good news is I now have a waterproof car, with a non-rusty roof, brand new rubber seals along the side and front windscreen, a carbon fiber hood, and the bumper is secured to the frame.

Things to do this weekend include air filter swap to my Blitz SUS, wastegate checking to see why one of them is chattering at idle, and arranging a full valet. steam clean, engine wash and polymer coating.

But every silver lining has a cloud, and it looks like my driver's side rear caliper is sticking. I'm guessing because it has been stood with the handbrake on at the bodyshop for weeks. After a normal drive back home for 15-20 minutes I could hear it cooling when I'd stopped and the rim was warm, although not too hot to touch.

Can't remember if I've rebuilt the caliper before or not. Am gonna try dousing it with WD40 tomorrow and seeing if I can free it up. If not then I might have to get a rebuild kit again and this time get a new piston to go with it.

[soldave]

And here we have pretty much the finished product by day, minus a couple of pieces of mesh for the front grilles. Only about 1/3 of the way through tuning at best though and still making sure everything is working right first before I get buried in the throttle.

And I still have plenty to do - the brake seems to have unstuck itself but I might have a minor oil leak from the transfer box. If so, it's probably from that seal going into the mission which I already have a replacement for.

[DOUGMO]

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