it works.....and works very well I might add. Just how long it lasts is the question....
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#21
Posted 13 April 2012 - 01:19 AM
BMGTZ
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Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
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BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
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#22
Posted 02 May 2012 - 08:53 PM
OLDIE
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F W I W the petrol Tritons are 100 stroke and seem to last forever in the tradies utes so it seems that wear/scuffing side loads on the piston skirts is no major drama. IMHO high zinc oil should to help minimise skirt scuffing. I just love the torque the stroker makes .
Edited by OLDIE, 02 May 2012 - 08:54 PM.
#23
Posted 04 May 2012 - 04:45 AM
lozza
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of course petrol tritons with 100 stroke will last forever - they only produce 194Nm and 5250rpm max revs. i think you will find 4-500Nm and 8000rpm a different matter all together ! with these sorts of pistons speeds and thrust loads, there will be a dramatic effect on engine lifeF W I W the petrol Tritons are 100 stroke and seem to last forever in the tradies utes so it seems that wear/scuffing side loads on the piston skirts is no major drama. IMHO high zinc oil should to help minimise skirt scuffing. I just love the torque the stroker makes .
that's not stopping me btw
Lorry
94 GSR
2.3L 4G63 + GT35R + Haltech Platinum 1000
510whp
94 GSR
2.3L 4G63 + GT35R + Haltech Platinum 1000
510whp
#24
Posted 04 May 2012 - 07:03 AM
OLDIE
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of course petrol tritons with 100 stroke will last forever - they only produce 194Nm and 5250rpm max revs. i think you will find 4-500Nm and 8000rpm a different matter all together ! with these sorts of pistons speeds and thrust loads, there will be a dramatic effect on engine life
that's not stopping me btw
I have 580 nm atw and app 7000k's on my stroker atm and I have a 7200rpm limiter.I think you will find that you won't need to rev it to 8k like a 2.0.
#25
Posted 04 May 2012 - 01:51 PM
ENGINR
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My 2.3 has been running fine for years and the engine teardown we did just after Christmas revealed that even after plenty of track days and dyno tuning sessions, everything internal was perfect.
"I got an idea, an idea so smart my head would explode if I even began to know what I was talking about." - Peter Griffin
#26
Posted 05 May 2012 - 05:24 AM
lozza
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regardless of personal or individual experiences and everything else being equal - a stroked 2.3L is as "safe" as a stock 2L, but with 1000rpm LESS.
So if you think your current 2L engine combo is "safe" at, say, 7500rpm - then your new 2.3L combo will be just as safe at 6500rpm (same mods). However, you need to be more exacting when building a 2.3L - (static balance eg piston weights, ptw clearance). This is not my personal experience, these are the facts from the excellent kidzuku article already referenced before. Everyone should read it.
There have been many successes and failures with strokers, this has not scared me away, because I believe for my use (street) the pros outway the cons. However, the trouble is that - how do you determine whether a motor is safe at x rpm? Different engine builders, different machining clearances/tolerances, shit in your oil, fuel - stuff you can't always control.
Anyway, my personal preference is 2.3L stroker for street, 2.0L for drag.
So if you think your current 2L engine combo is "safe" at, say, 7500rpm - then your new 2.3L combo will be just as safe at 6500rpm (same mods). However, you need to be more exacting when building a 2.3L - (static balance eg piston weights, ptw clearance). This is not my personal experience, these are the facts from the excellent kidzuku article already referenced before. Everyone should read it.
There have been many successes and failures with strokers, this has not scared me away, because I believe for my use (street) the pros outway the cons. However, the trouble is that - how do you determine whether a motor is safe at x rpm? Different engine builders, different machining clearances/tolerances, shit in your oil, fuel - stuff you can't always control.
Anyway, my personal preference is 2.3L stroker for street, 2.0L for drag.
Lorry
94 GSR
2.3L 4G63 + GT35R + Haltech Platinum 1000
510whp
94 GSR
2.3L 4G63 + GT35R + Haltech Platinum 1000
510whp
#27
Posted 05 May 2012 - 01:16 PM
ENGINR
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2.3s are awesome.
"I got an idea, an idea so smart my head would explode if I even began to know what I was talking about." - Peter Griffin
#28
Posted 05 May 2012 - 09:33 PM
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#29
Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:42 PM
jack be nimble
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2.3s are awesome.
I'm taking all I can, if that means 6mm extra deck height to run a 2.4, then I will make it fit.
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#30
Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:47 PM
bazeng
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Gday maaaate
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Long rod 2.4 s are way to go...
AMG | http://www.4gtuner.c...mmc-galant-amg/
GVR4 | http://www.4gtuner.c...shi-galant-vr4/
Springy Motors | Autronic | Motec
#31
Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:06 AM
ENGINR
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I'm taking all I can, if that means 6mm extra deck height to run a 2.4, then I will make it fit.
Stroke the G4CS to a 2.6!!!!
"I got an idea, an idea so smart my head would explode if I even began to know what I was talking about." - Peter Griffin
#32
Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:03 AM
DOUGMO
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Ive been in a 2.6 evo and the torque is just amazing, really amazing!
GENUINE CE9A evo2 gsr track car
all fabrication BJP AUTOMOTIVE
winton 1:27.4 /// sandown 1:21.5 /// phillip island 1:49.2 /// haunted hills 59.1 /// eastern creek 1:35.4 /// winton short 1:01.4
#33
Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:45 PM
jack be nimble
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master of none
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What's that? 112mm custom crank. That would have to be close to hitting everything in the bottom end.Stroke the G4CS to a 2.6!!!!
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#34
Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:48 PM
DOUGMO
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yoni lover
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106mm in a 2.4 block with 87mm bore
GENUINE CE9A evo2 gsr track car
all fabrication BJP AUTOMOTIVE
winton 1:27.4 /// sandown 1:21.5 /// phillip island 1:49.2 /// haunted hills 59.1 /// eastern creek 1:35.4 /// winton short 1:01.4
#35
Posted 06 February 2015 - 03:01 AM
evopwr
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May have been answered (but I missed it):
Regarding rod clearance / interference when using a 100mm crank in a 4g63 block:
1/ What aftermarket rods are known to be the best for this application (i.e. minimal interference issues)
2/ What is the extent of material required to be removed due to interference? Anyone got pics or a Youtube video link?
Cheers
Alex
Regarding rod clearance / interference when using a 100mm crank in a 4g63 block:
1/ What aftermarket rods are known to be the best for this application (i.e. minimal interference issues)
2/ What is the extent of material required to be removed due to interference? Anyone got pics or a Youtube video link?
Cheers
Alex
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4G63t, AWD, Widebody
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4G63t, AWD, Widebody
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#36
Posted 06 February 2015 - 03:08 AM
BYBY5L
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I beams require none from what I heard (could be wrong) and H beams do need the extra clearance, havnt got pics sorry, it wouldnt be hard to die grind the required space though,
Are you doing the assembly?
Are you doing the assembly?
#37
Posted 06 February 2015 - 03:14 AM
evopwr
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I would be Jamie, hence why I would rather spend $$ for something that fits instead of $$$$$$ for custom machinework!
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4G63t, AWD, Widebody
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4G63t, AWD, Widebody
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#38
Posted 06 February 2015 - 03:23 AM
BYBY5L
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Nice, DIY... Shouldnt of asked true, lol
All ya need to do to gain clearance is dummy fit the rotating assembly with pistons 1 & 4 grind ya clearance then 2 & 3 and die grind them,
id look at I beams anyway, heavier but strong,
have ya decided on what crank/ rod and piston combo yet?
All ya need to do to gain clearance is dummy fit the rotating assembly with pistons 1 & 4 grind ya clearance then 2 & 3 and die grind them,
id look at I beams anyway, heavier but strong,
have ya decided on what crank/ rod and piston combo yet?
#39
Posted 06 February 2015 - 04:12 AM
evopwr
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Jamie, I had a 100mm second hand crank. Had it crack tested, just got off the phone and turned out to be rooted!
best $ I've spent to date (crack testing) otherwise if I used that for the rebuild...
best $ I've spent to date (crack testing) otherwise if I used that for the rebuild...
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4G63t, AWD, Widebody
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4G63t, AWD, Widebody
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#40
Posted 06 February 2015 - 04:38 AM
Geo&Kez
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Re the clearance question, have a look at pages 3 & 4 on this thread. Was an eagle 100mm stroker kit. Think you will find all the block castings will all be slightly different so there's no certainty that any combination will fit. Not hard to clearance with a die grinder thou.
http://www.4gtuner.c...post__p__272870
http://www.4gtuner.c...post__p__272870
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