21 replies to this topic

[skags2]

Hi again !
trying to work out witch ecu output is used for fans and is it 12 volt ,
so far i have tryed from the ecu color chart, 3 radiator fan relay low ac color green black,
11 fan relay ac green white (has constant power) 16 radiator fan relay high ac , none of them seem to work , tested buy putting sensor in a jug/kettle and waited to see if any power to my relays or the wires with ignition on (engine not runnin) ,

does anyone know witch one i should be useing and also maybe some sensor resistance charts thanks !

[leadfoot]

best way to find which wire from the ecu is the trigger (if it's ecu triggered) is to unplug the ecu looms and batery. then stick power down the relay trigger circuit and then do a continuity test (test light) on the ecu pins the one that lights up is your trigger

[CYBORG-X]

if you disconect the WTS the thermofans should switch on.
i do believe the green and black goes to earth to trigger, reguardless if its aus or jap spec

[leadfoot]

yeah mine was green with black trace in my glxi (no thermo swicth) and the its green with black trace from switch

[skags2]

if you disconect the WTS the thermofans should switch on.
i do believe the green and black goes to earth to trigger, reguardless if its aus or jap spec

thanks for this , I have just tried now continuity to neutral on green and black with water temp sensor disconnected and still get nothing, ill just check i have all my negatives on correctly and check the water temp sensor as it is aftermarket, you dont buy chance no what resistance should trigger the fans or is it just open circuit , green and black wire is pin three on the evo 1-3 ecu pin out chart is this correct ?
if i cant work it out i can allways put the fan on a stand alone stat but would like it computer controlled if possible

[skags2]

best way to find which wire from the ecu is the trigger (if it's ecu triggered) is to unplug the ecu looms and batery. then stick power down the relay trigger circuit and then do a continuity test (test light) on the ecu pins the one that lights up is your trigger

good way of testing ! but wont work for me as i have installed non factory relays for fan and fuel pump , and only have factory loom no relays or switches etc,
I did not realise but it sounds like it is switching negatives, im wondering if they gave me the wrong sensor as engine did not fit one and i have had to fit an aftermarket , but as of yet with it unplugged i am not getting any fans .

[jack be nimble]

from my understanding, if the green/black goes back to the ecu, then it is ecu triggered to earth.
if your green/black goes to a temp sender on the block or radiator then it is sender switched to earth.

at normal temps the sender will be open. at whatever temp the sender should earth and this will ground the relay in the fuse box near the battery and the fan will start.

as temporary fix before i got my fans switching correctly, i had a relay that i had opened the cover on and jammed in the contact closed position. you could do this to see if the fan switches correctly and has power.

then comes the trigger. power goes into the relay and comes out on the green/black wire. (test for 12v with key on) if you earth the green/black wire at the sendor end the relay will trigger and the fan turns on.

if it is ecu triggered, the ecu willl earth the green/black wire through the fan driver chip inside the ECU.

[CYBORG-X]

i was always certain that when you disconnect your wts, the thermofans turn on as a failsafe. do you fans work at all via the ecu, or are you trying to make them work with your ecu?

some ecu's dont have thermofan drivers, thus you must use the switch.

jack, you are spot on with your info!!!

[skags2]

from my understanding, if the green/black goes back to the ecu, then it is ecu triggered to earth.
if your green/black goes to a temp sender on the block or radiator then it is sender switched to earth.

at normal temps the sender will be open. at whatever temp the sender should earth and this will ground the relay in the fuse box near the battery and the fan will start.

as temporary fix before i got my fans switching correctly, i had a relay that i had opened the cover on and jammed in the contact closed position. you could do this to see if the fan switches correctly and has power.

then comes the trigger. power goes into the relay and comes out on the green/black wire. (test for 12v with key on) if you earth the green/black wire at the sendor end the relay will trigger and the fan turns on.

if it is ecu triggered, the ecu willl earth the green/black wire through the fan driver chip inside the ECU.

Thanks mate,
I have wired it into the relay but not as a negative trigger . relays are not the factory ones just ones i have fitted engine is not in a evo but in a van .
I will try rewiring as a negative now and test , also would you no does the engine have to be running for it to cycle the fans or is just ignition enough I will put the temp sender in the jug of hot water and try both ways after re wireing the relay and see how it goes, will keep ya's posted tanks for great comments
wasnt sure as on the ecu pin out diagram there is 3 that are labeled fans but i will just use the green black wire one .

[jack be nimble]

factory is neg trigger because if there is a wire rubbed and earthed out it will start fans instead of blowing fuse.

it doesnt matter if you are neg or pos trigger if using a sender. either should work.

sendor should be open at cold temps and closed at fan temps. my bike switches on at 97c and off at 85c (or something like that) wouldnt be too fussy as yet, as long as it switches on and off.

it sounds a bit like you may have the wrong type of sender as you are chasing resistance tables and such. it needs to be just on or off.. simple.

[skags2]

nope its got me stumped , tryed without engine running and with engine running still no negative to the 3rd pin off the chart wire color green and black , just wondering if anyone can confirm disconnected water temp sender will force fans on as i might disconnect and test all pins to negative .
green and black wire went from ecu to this plug pictured where i have spliced into to control my relay ,
I was wondering if the water temp sender goes more on resistance rather than just an on off signal as the car seems to start nicer from cold and idle higher than what it does when i have warmed the sensor (to roughly 100 deg)

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[skags2]

temp sender is a fuelmiser ccs39 as spec from local part supplier (who often get things wrong)

[jack be nimble]

i dont know about WTS.

do you have power in that green/black wire with key on?

show me pic of the fan relay you using and the wires on the bottom.

[skags2]

i dont know about WTS.

do you have power in that green/black wire with key on?

show me pic of the fan relay you using and the wires on the bottom.

at the moment i have given up on the relay as i kno it will work just testing green and black wire to negative for continuity and see if it switches but for some reason the ecu is at no time puts power down that wire or earths to negative ,
but from the photos black will goto power feed green will be to the green black wire and the red will be to power feed and blue to fan ,

originally black would of been neutral as i thought ecu would of sent power to the relay

appreciate any ideas or anything as i suspect it is a ecu thing or something to do with the sender trying to get stats on it or what resistance the ecu should cycle the fans but cant seem to find anything as of yet

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[leadfoot]

tbh i'd be ditching ecu switching and running a thermo switch in the rad or somewhere similar run const 12v power to one side of the trigger the other out to the temp switch and then to earth then wire in the thermo fans as per usual

unless you have a requirement for ecu switching it sounds like to much hassle.

i beleive mine has both a water temp sender (to shut off ac) and a water temp switch to control thermo fans.

the temp sender is const 12v on unless temp exceeds threshold then breaks earth shuts ac off (if on)

the temp switch is off until thershold broken then closes circuit. turn thermo fans on.

by default thermo fans are on when ac is on

[skags2]

tbh i'd be ditching ecu switching and running a thermo switch in the rad or somewhere similar run const 12v power to one side of the trigger the other out to the temp switch and then to earth then wire in the thermo fans as per usual

unless you have a requirement for ecu switching it sounds like to much hassle.

i beleive mine has both a water temp sender (to shut off ac) and a water temp switch to control thermo fans.

the temp sender is const 12v on unless temp exceeds threshold then breaks earth shuts ac off (if on)

the temp switch is off until thershold broken then closes circuit. turn thermo fans on.

by default thermo fans are on when ac is on

I would like to try get things running off the ecu if i can but if i cant ill put a stand alone fan controller on , i would like to get it all done so i can tidy up the wiring then go on first test run The sender seems to go off resistance to tell the ecu engine temp for cold starts etc it is a two wire one , the single wire one im suspecting is just for factory gauge cluster , green and black at no time seem to have a negative or positive power feed i think i am going to try test the other two labeled radiator fan and see how it goes, one of them seems to have a constant 12 volts so im not sure what the go is there only thing i can think of is it is the power for the switching contacts , the other thing i was thinking is finding the input for the aircon (witch i dont have installed) to make the fan outputs go to find witch ones they are but that is another angle i may try , any other ideas appreciated and ill update as i go if anyone following and for future reference

[jack be nimble]

wiring looks fine. your green/black is going to relay pin 85?

open your ECU, do you have a driver ic at IC107

look at post #2 pic 5.
http://www.4gtuner.c...ntrol-problems/
in this pic there is no IC107 fitted so this ecu has no fan control capabilities.
if you have IC107 fitted then you have ecu issues and should go back to sender control of your fans anyway


your sensor looks to be the ecu coolant temp sensor and correct for your application:
http://www.eziautopa...nt-sensors.html
however you need a CFS29 if you want to switch your fans. any rad switch from any manual radiator would do if it was me though.

mine is mounted in pic 2 post #108 here:
http://www.4gtuner.c...w/page__st__100
right next to turbo oil line. im not sure if this is a factory position. I actually have a driver in IC107 (maybe evo ecu?) but still use the sender for now
i know other have theres mounted in radiator etc.

Ecmlink chips give you a option to run fans always as a diagnostic aid. not much help i know but may help others

[jack be nimble]

I would like to try get things running off the ecu if i can but if i cant ill put a stand alone fan controller on , i would like to get it all done so i can tidy up the wiring then go on first test run The sender seems to go off resistance to tell the ecu engine temp for cold starts etc it is a two wire one , the single wire one im suspecting is just for factory gauge cluster , green and black at no time seem to have a negative or positive power feed i think i am going to try test the other two labeled radiator fan and see how it goes, one of them seems to have a constant 12 volts so im not sure what the go is there only thing i can think of is it is the power for the switching contacts , the other thing i was thinking is finding the input for the aircon (witch i dont have installed) to make the fan outputs go to find witch ones they are but that is another angle i may try , any other ideas appreciated and ill update as i go if anyone following and for future reference

if running a sender setup, you already have power at relay pin86. when relay is installed you will then have power at relay pin85. so run a wire from pin85 to a pin on sender CFS29 (or similar). the other pin on sender CFS29 you need to earth.(if its a singe pin then the body needs to be earthed) you dont need a fan controller, if you want earlier switching get a auto sender Cfs11

The sendor you have is ecu temp sender and is resistance based, like you suggest. the other single pin one is gauge temp as you suspect, you can earth this wire and dash gauge should rise to HOTHOTHOT

[skags2]

if running a sender setup, you already have power at relay pin86. when relay is installed you will then have power at relay pin85. so run a wire from pin85 to a pin on sender CFS29 (or similar). the other pin on sender CFS29 you need to earth.(if its a singe pin then the body needs to be earthed) you dont need a fan controller, if you want earlier switching get a auto sender Cfs11

The sendor you have is ecu temp sender and is resistance based, like you suggest. the other single pin one is gauge temp as you suspect, you can earth this wire and dash gauge should rise to HOTHOTHOT

Do you recommend ecm chips , would be good to see what is actually going on , the ecu has been chipped buy the looks before so has a Socket installed i dont kno to much about the chips I was hoping to have a go at that later on , my ecu does have IC107 fitted,
The engine runs great i have no problem in fitting stand alone fan control as local store sells them for about 50 dollars and you set your temperature range but it would of been nice to be able to get the ecu to do the switching to the relay , im just wondering if the negative the ecu is using to switch to the blue black wire is not there or the ecu is damaged as you sugest or the sensor range is out, im also wondering what the 3 other fan labled wires are for blu yellow and green white , also trying to find out how i can give a "turn ac on signal" to maybe see if that does turn the fans on to see if the ecu is working ,

been doing lots of reading today

[skags2]

can anybody identify what should be on this plug is it a relay or something , im just wondering as green and white wire witch seems to have constant 12v and blue and green wire that seems to have nothing but are both labeled for fans goto it ,... is there a relay there and are the two wires maybe join or something from whatever plugs in there if anyone could identify would be greatfull looking at the evo loom it is not far from where the loom goes through the firewall ,

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