80 replies to this topic

[evotastic.ca]

Thanks to Brian @ Erbified Motorsports for making this possible!


Much more cooling stuff has yet to come. Up next is my custom water pipe and removal of all coolant hoses in the engine bay & custom built radiator. Hint: my oil cooler is for sale.

Stay tuned!

[evotastic.ca]

Big update coming. Who wants it?
Coolant solution has been figured out. Only thing missing is some hose ends and welding. The -20AN hoses are NOT flexible. You’ll notice in the picture that I have to work out the angles into the bungs, rather than have the hose bend. Don’t mind the tape, it’s to let the welder know exactly how I want the bungs. Water cooled tubos are sort of a no go at this point, mostly due to having removed the water pipe. Heater pipe was removed, tapped for 3/8 NPT and red loctited shut.No biggied to tap in a -4AN or whatever in there.

-20AN everything. The ID of the -20AN is actually smaller than most openings I could see. Regardless, things worked out fine. Brand new, custom sized, dual pass radiator came along. Fit nicely under the crash beam. On top of this, it has an oil cooler on the OFH side. -8AN bungs welded to the OFH, -8AN fittings on the cooler, good to go.

Wiring is also mostly completed. All 3 harnesses were grouped together, saved upwards of 20lbs of wiring. Engine, chassis and body harnesses were all combined into one. Everything besides high beams, wiper motor and brake fluid level sensor have been wired in.

Yeah. It’s alot of wires. lol.


Early evo owners: I need to know how the wires in the picture are wired into the cavities & which corresponding relay goes along with it for this relay box. I had grouped them when I tore down the wiring, but my computer broke & I can’t find the pictures.

It’s wired in this pic. Can’t see any wires .

And, the routing.


Car will be started soon, hopefully, and broken in without a turbo. Reasoning behind this is that I am itching to run the car & get a head start on the break in. While I am missing some work and parts on the 3’’ piping for the IC, I am missing nothing to run NT besides a small exhaust piece that would connect between my 2G OEM manifold and my V Banded exhaust.
More fast evo soon, maybe even a running one!

Edited by evotastic.ca, 08 July 2012 - 02:52 AM.

[ENGINR]

Nice work with the radiator.

[Evo-00x]

Shityeah the water connections looks sik. Would you really need that size radiator and hoses for a drag car?

[robevo]

nice work mate, very clean

[evotastic.ca]

Nice work with the radiator.

Thank you!

Shityeah the water connections looks sik. Would you really need that size radiator and hoses for a drag car?

You're right, could have done with a smaller one and no oil cooler. However, I am hoping I will be able to do some city driving without fearing overheating issues.

nice work mate, very clean

Thanks!

Edited by evotastic.ca, 08 July 2012 - 01:07 PM.

[evotastic.ca]

Many of you, especially the evo owners, have asked how my intercooler will fit and how big I am running. 4’’ thick, almost 30 inches long, and just under 14 inches high . Suffice to say, it barely fits lol. I really want to be able to drive this car in the city without any overheating issues, so leaving the upper vent of the bumper free of any fmic core was important. Oh and, don’t mind the electrical tape, it’s just until I the brackets get welded. Wish I could weld. Enjoy the pics



Off to the shop for finishing touches and to double-check everything, this is my first build afterall!

Edited by evotastic.ca, 10 July 2012 - 01:31 AM.

[evotastic.ca]

Thanks to Joe @ Red Jack Racing, my amazing, divided T3 manifold has come in. Need to find some heat shielding for that AN hose so close to the turbine housing. Car is scheduled to be put back together on Monday & Tuesday, some final work by my loyal mechanic on Wednesday and finally, starting on Friday. If all goes well obviously .

[bazeng]

Nice manifold!

[robevo]

nice!!!!!!!

[evotastic.ca]

Nice manifold!

All credit to Red Jack, but thanks

nice!!!!!!!

Keep following!

[evotastic.ca]

2012-12-30
Hi all, Unfortunately, the car did not run in 2012. Maybe too optimistic about getting it running with so little time on my hands. Despite that, I am still working on it, and have encountered an issue I need help with. There is no pulse from the injectors when hand turning the CAS. I want to be sure I have fuel & spark before cranking the engine over, which is why I am looking for this. Here are some of the details I have gathered so far: With key on engine off (KOEO), turning the cam angle sensor (CAS) by hand, yields no ticking from any of the injectors;
The computer (ECU) appears to be booting up fine when turning to key to the ON position, the check engine light (CEL) comes on for 5 seconds and disappears;
The starter relay appears to be functioning, it clicks when the key is move to the ON position;
The starer appears to be getting power, as it makes a series of audible clicks when the key is turned to the ON position;
With KOEO, voltage at both pins of the injector clips = battery voltage;
ABS warning light appears on the dash, this light used to be present when I had a short 2 years ago;
With KOEO, CAS is seeing appropriate voltage (white 5v, black small .88v, red 11.9v, black large 0.03v);
With KOEO, negative side of voltmeter (multimeter) on negative battery terminal, positive side of voltmeter on either pins of of the injector clips yields no continuity, this I beleive is as it should be;
With KOEO, I get no voltage on the harness side of the resistor pack, this I am not sure of.

2013-01-01
As I mentioned in the previous post, I am experiencing a no spark no pulse condition. This issue stems from my recent wire-tuck, at least it is likely to stem from that. All system were functional prior to the wire tuck. So onto the wiring I started working. Dug up some wiring diagrams for which the 4pin cam angle sensor (CAS) was used (1G 93-94). Do some crosschecking between the 1G ECU pinouts and the early evo pinouts.


CAS connector is identified as B32 on the above diagram. Tracing each individual wires leads you to the following:
pin 1 is the CAM position signal wire
pin 2 is the CRANK position signal wire
pin 3 is the +12v wire
pin 4 is the ground


Luckily, there is some literature available that allows you to find an equivalent for the cam and crank signal wire. As such, the tracing of the wiring should be as follows for the early EVO:

This sends me to pin 2, which is supposed to connect straight to ECU pin 69 of the early evo diagram. This wire is black, and was, unfortunately, teeing off between ECU pin 69 and a chassis ground. As such, the signal was never received by the ECU when cam angle sensor (CAS) was being turned by hand. Separate the wire from the ground and VOILA! Spark and injector pulse are present. Problem solved. Up next: getting my FMIC piping welded

Edited by evotastic.ca, 03 January 2013 - 02:43 PM.

[evotastic.ca]

2013-01-02
Good news. The battery draining short circuit was the slight wire mishap mentioned in my previous post. This means my battery no longer drains. Onto some progress. I've installed the Hallman Boost Controller and the Erbified Motorsports coolant overflow. The compressor cover serves as the boost source for the HBC (Hallman Boost Controller). Both fittings, available from Hallman Boost Controllers, turn the usual barb fittings into neat, -4AN fittings. The right one is a 120° -4AN fitting I got directly from MAPerformance.



Don't think I will have room for a filter. Few layers of metal mesh on the turbo shall suffice.



The oil will flow to and from the OFH (oil filter housing) to the internal oil cooler housed in the right side radiator end tank. This hose is -8AN sized. I hope this allows me appropriate heat absorption and potentially even help me drive this on the street without overheating. Despite being tucked, the wiring harness is still a mess Before making it all pretty, and wrapped, gotta be sure there's no more hiccups! Zip ties everywhere LOL.

[jack be nimble]

Glad you sorted on that. I was going to say that maybe if there is no oil pressure, there is no fuel pulse, unless key is at crank...

Long time no update, I was missing this build, good to see it's progressing

[bazeng]

Nice update! I love the detail. Glad you got it sorted.
Looks like you are making decent progression with the build.

[evotastic.ca]

Glad you sorted on that. I was going to say that maybe if there is no oil pressure, there is no fuel pulse, unless key is at crank...

Long time no update, I was missing this build, good to see it's progressing

Thanks! It's comin.

Nice update! I love the detail. Glad you got it sorted.
Looks like you are making decent progression with the build.

Thank you!

Quick question, can anyone help me identify what these are? Both were around the driver side fusebox.

Unknown evo relay #1


Unknown evo relay #2

[EVL20T]

1st relay could be the turn signal, the 2nd relay is deffinately for the fold in mirrors

[caged]

The first one isn't a relay OR isn't a wired up/ used
relay. Pop the top off it, i don't know of any two wire relays.

[evotastic.ca]

1st relay could be the turn signal, the 2nd relay is deffinately for the fold in mirrors

Thanks!

The first one isn't a relay OR isn't a wired up/ used
relay. Pop the top off it, i don't know of any two wire relays.

I beleive the grey one is missing 1 wire, I think its the turn signal cycler.

Edited by evotastic.ca, 13 January 2013 - 03:31 PM.

[evotastic.ca]

1. it runs great, sounds mean & nasty, but a few quirks
2. my OFH is leaking, did not know they were bsp fittings, tapped NPT fittings in them. they seemed pretty tight lol.
3. getting evo 9 ofh and welded fittings etc etc
4. -20an hose is too tight, going with nylon hose so I can work with softer hose and larger angles hopefully
5. wire harness is going great, heres some pics. black: signal, red: power, yellow: ground