18 replies to this topic

[EV0300]

Driving home today i did a 2 to 3rd gear pull when i went to shift it wouldnt go in, i then tried for 4th and 5th it still wouldnt get in. luckily i was going quick enough to roll it to the lights. at the lights i tried selecting a gear and it took a few times to get it into 1st. I thought i had blew the box, I did smell what seemed like something burning while at the lights. i was only 1km away from home so i nursed it back and kept an ear out for any unusual noises, i couldnt hear anything ot of the ordinary. I did notice when trying to reverse it wants to stall unless i get the revs up. so i'm hoping maybe the clutch at worst? anyone have any other opinions, i need to get it sorted asap im abit worried to drive it at the moment.

cheers

[bazeng]

It could be a few things.

Check if you can shift when the engine is not running. If yes, then you have a disengagement / engagement issue. It may just need a clutch system bleed or repair or a leaky system. Could even be a work fork / pivot ball or a clutch pedal adjustment may fix the issue.

If you can't shift when the engine is off,then it is something more severe.

Good luck.

[EV0300]

It could be a few things.

Check if you can shift when the engine is not running. If yes, then you have a disengagement / engagement issue. It may just need a clutch system bleed or repair or a leaky system. Could even be a work fork / pivot ball or a clutch pedal adjustment may fix the issue.

If you can't shift when the engine is off,then it is something more severe.

Good luck.

just checked i can select gears with engine off, although it was still abit tricky to hit 3 sounds wierd but it seemed abit more to the left then it usually is. I also noticed my reservoir level has dropped, so there must be a slight leak but could it make that big of an issue it doesnt seem like a large leak.

[bazeng]

Yes. It only takes a few mm's of change to make a difference.
I would adjust your clutch pedal to give it more stroke and also bleed the system straight after.
Once that is done, it most likely be good.
If it fails again, you have a leak somewhere.

Also keen in mind, as your clutch disc material wears, you will also lose stroke in your rod movement so it will also affect the disengagement/engagement of the clutch.

[Evo-00x]

Check that you're not leaking fluid under the clutch master cylinder in the engine bay; and also go inside the car and check above the clutch pedal where the master cylinder comes in through the firewall.

[GSRWRC]

Could be a bent selector fork.

[Craig_CD9A]

Check that the two clips holding the selector cable in place just above the gearbox are still there and haven't popped off the bracket.

Edited by Craig_CD9A, 15 February 2012 - 01:15 AM.

[EV0300]

had a good look its dry inside the cabin, theres abit of a leak inside the engine bay, selector cables are still in place. i bled the system and it feels abit better dont know how long it will stay like that though. do i need a new slave? or is it just seals that need replacing? also how big of a job is it?

thanks for all the info guys.

[Evo-00x]

So it was the clutch master cylinder (CMC) leaking fluid down the firewall? If so, fix it ASAP otherwise that shit is gonna start paint stripping your firewall and rusting up.
Im not sure if you can buy just the seals? If not, a new complete CMC unit can be bought from Meek Automotive: http://www.meek.com....d&productId=546
Piss easy job. You have to get inside the cabin and remove the split pin and pin that connects the CMC U-bracket to the clutch pedal.
Then go to the engine bay and undo the 2 bolts that bolt the CMC to the firewall. Also undo the bolt that holds the clutch hose to the side of the CMC.
Oh yeah, drain it first from that bolt or if you are going to ditch the fluid for new fluid (which you should be doing anyway) just put a clean rag inside the CMC and soak it up until there's no fluid left in it, then remove it.
Then pull it off the firewall for replacement.
Installation is just the reversal of above but you'll need to bleed it obviously.

[jack be nimble]

Have to peel back the rubber boots to check they dry.
The o ring inside is pretty generic and are about $5.
You will need a brake cylinder hone as well for about $20.
Easy job, I sure there is a vfaq around

[jack be nimble]

I think a new slave was about $35 at brake parts place. They are common as, and same as my proton, I suspect they are on sonata, magna, proton, etc.
My proton one was leaking with 80000k on it

[EV0300]

I think a new slave was about $35 at brake parts place. They are common as, and same as my proton, I suspect they are on sonata, magna, proton, etc.
My proton one was leaking with 80000k on it

i havent really done anything like that before, might just be easier to replace the whole thing?

[EvoMayhem]

Have to peel back the rubber boots to check they dry.
The o ring inside is pretty generic and are about $5.
You will need a brake cylinder hone as well for about $20.
Easy job, I sure there is a vfaq around

At risk of asking potentially a daft question, but why on earth would he need to have a 'brake cylinder hone', if his clutch master cylinder is leaking?

I think a new slave was about $35 at brake parts place. They are common as, and same as my proton, I suspect they are on sonata, magna, proton, etc.
My proton one was leaking with 80000k on it

As above, if it's the master cylinder leaking, why are you talking about prices for slave cylinders?

If I'm misunderstanding your posts, I apologise, but I just don't see the relevance in either of them.

As is, you can buy a master cylinder rebuild kit from Mitsi themselves, but if you go that route, I would suggest that you double check you have the correct master cylinder fitted for your car.

What I mean by this, is I went and bought a rebuild kit from a contact I have in Japan, at the same time as buying some other things. The rebuild kit didn't quite work with my master cylinder, and checking on ASA showed that a previous owner had replaced it with a different item from the factory supplied part.

I ended up just buying a complete new unit, but given that most folks haven't owned these things from fresh out the factory, we can't always guarantee that items like these are as factory intended.

Edited by EvoMayhem, 15 February 2012 - 03:10 PM.

[leadfoot]

At risk of asking potentially a daft question, but why on earth would he need to have a 'brake cylinder hone', if his clutch master cylinder is leaking?



As above, if it's the master cylinder leaking, why are you talking about prices for slave cylinders?

If I'm misunderstanding your posts, I apologise, but I just don't see the relevance in either of them.

As is, you can buy a master cylinder rebuild kit from Mitsi themselves, but if you go that route, I would suggest that you double check you have the correct master cylinder fitted for your car.

What I mean by this, is I went and bought a rebuild kit from a contact I have in Japan, at the same time as buying some other things. The rebuild kit didn't quite work with my master cylinder, and checking on ASA showed that a previous owner had replaced it with a different item from the factory supplied part.

I ended up just buying a complete new unit, but given that most folks haven't owned these things from fresh out the factory, we can't always guarantee that items like these are as factory intended.

the same concept for the braking system is use in a hydraulic clutch system the inside of a the clutch master is almost identical to the inside of a brake master

[EvoMayhem]

the same concept for the braking system is use in a hydraulic clutch system the inside of a the clutch master is almost identical to the inside of a brake master

Yeah, they both have a plunger, and they both push fluid. That's where the similarities end.

In all seriousness, had he just said give the clutch master cylinder a hone, I'd have understood. Suggesting a brake cylinder hone, then go on about slave units, when it was stated that the master was leaking was the confusing part.

As such, the physical operation, manufacture, and concept of the parts has nothing to do with how his post ended up confusing me...

Edited by EvoMayhem, 16 February 2012 - 07:32 AM.

[EV0300]

just abit of an update changed the clutch master, it feels alot smoother and nicer too. but when i tried to take off quickly it wouldn't shift to 2nd then it took me a while to get it into gear at the lights. when i had my foot to the floor and tried to select a gear i could hear it grind abit. when i got it going i took it easy on the way home and it seemed to shift nicely again. It kinda felt down on power if that make sense? is it slipping? or do i just need to adjust it?

[EvoMayhem]

just abit of an update changed the clutch master, it feels alot smoother and nicer too. but when i tried to take off quickly it wouldn't shift to 2nd then it took me a while to get it into gear at the lights. when i had my foot to the floor and tried to select a gear i could hear it grind abit. when i got it going i took it easy on the way home and it seemed to shift nicely again. It kinda felt down on power if that make sense? is it slipping? or do i just need to adjust it?

If your engine accelerates, but the car doesn't, that's a slipping clutch.

If your engine isn't doing that though, it could be a couple of things. Best case is adjustment of the clutch master cylinder, worst case is gearbox damage. (By that, I mean the likes of a worn a synchromesh assembly)

Push down on the clutch pedal and wait a sec, then try and slam it into 2nd. Does it still crunch?

Same again, push on clutch, wait a sec, then gently select 2nd. Still crunching?

[EV0300]

update, clutch was stuffed. one of the springs was lose and one had actually come out of the disc. getting a heavy duty put in this time. also found my rear seal on the transfer case was leaking and my transfer case was almost empty. hopefully it hasnt done any damage. selector bushings were also changed so hopefully i will be back on the road this arvo or tommorrow.

[EV0300]

Got the car back, feels alot better although when i do the test to check for drag its still lunging forward abit. I readjusted it to how it was shown on jackstransmissions but it still does it. what else could it be?