Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
whats this noise
#21
Posted 01 March 2012 - 12:00 PM
And with the cat thing, you gotta use one of those skinless cats, less padding so it makes a more vibrant rattle, not a muffled one
#22
Posted 01 March 2012 - 12:02 PM
the upside to using a kitten would be that it will be easier to get through the hole in the top of the can....
on a serious note....you can still get nice even compression results from slightly bent valves as it is a spike pressure you are measuring....not a constant.
but lets hope for bad lifter oiling first.
now back to cats..........did you know that you can play music with a cat?
a live cat wailing does bear some semblance to the sound of a violin which once has their strings made from cat gut
what should i do??
pull them out and bleed them in diesel then put them back in??
just something i read
92 CC LANCER 1.8T CONVERSION... JUST FOR PARTS NOW
#23
Posted 01 March 2012 - 12:07 PM
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#24
Posted 01 March 2012 - 01:02 PM
what should i do??
pull them out and bleed them in diesel then put them back in??
just something i read
yes mate that would be a good start....hopefully they will clack for a few seconds after start up then go silent
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#25
Posted 01 March 2012 - 01:10 PM
How should the tin be agitated in order to replicate the noise?
I find a salsa rhythm to be closest to the sound of a dud lifter. the cat adds the metallic tick as the flea collars hits the tin...but a live small cat replicates the inconsistent tick of of there being only one or two dud lifters by writhing around as it rides the the salsa wave.. A bent valve can be replicated by removal of the flea collar :P:P
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#26
Posted 01 March 2012 - 01:13 PM
Any possibility it could be to do with valve springs. I read that of u put in a different grade cam you should change valve springs ect, or else they kinda flap against the new cam because the compress rate of the spring is different.
And with the cat thing, you gotta use one of those skinless cats, less padding so it makes a more vibrant rattle, not a muffled one
yes I agree .....skinless are good but the noise is more akin to a bottom end knock than valve train.
and a good point on the springs....have you checked for coil bind?
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#27
Posted 01 March 2012 - 02:29 PM
I find a salsa rhythm to be closest to the sound of a dud lifter. the cat adds the metallic tick as the flea collars hits the tin...but a live small cat replicates the inconsistent tick of of there being only one or two dud lifters by writhing around as it rides the the salsa wave.. A bent valve can be replicated by removal of the flea collar :P:P
I thought a mechanical aid might be required, eg a cement mixer or clothes dryer, or maybe kicking the tin down a rocky incline.
Was it suggested the paint tin should be empty of paint?
Coilbind should be ok with aftermarket springs? But I would still check,
With older cars, we isolate ticky lifters by holding pressure on the lifter side of the rocker arm and listening for a change in the ticking, be careful of the moving bits though, and do your JHA and take 5
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#28
Posted 01 March 2012 - 02:49 PM
Is the base circle diameter the same between cams?
I also thought the valves could be hitting the pistons but I'd seriously doubt you'd get a compression reading.
Rocker arms the right way.
Not taking the piss mate ....just trying to figure it out too.
Cheers
#29
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:00 PM
Lifters can only go in 1 way same as the rocker arms
The base circle looks to be the same have to get a vernier on it
I'll pull the lifters out again and bleed them in diesel see how it goes
92 CC LANCER 1.8T CONVERSION... JUST FOR PARTS NOW
#30
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:02 PM
As for checking the valve springs I don't know because I've never had to do it, but one day soon hopefully I will I wanna rebuild my head
#32
Posted 02 March 2012 - 01:52 AM
We used to say 10 thou for every 1000 rpm, but overhead cam engines can run tighter as they have a lighter valvetrain. Ok as a guide, or ask your spring manufacturer.
Items: 0 Home : Tech : Valve Spring Tech
Valve Spring Tech
Valve Spring Pocket Clearance
Valve spring pocket clearance is the gap between the inside diameter of the valve spring pocket (or cup, if used) and the outside diameter of the valve spring.
Too much clearance will result in the spring "dancing" around in the head, which "beats up" the spring mounting surface and the spring itself. If this is the case, a spring cup may be used. Additional machining of the spring pocket may be required to accept the spring cup.
Not enough clearance will bind the spring in the pocket, overstressing the bottom coil by limiting its movement and not allowing the spring to "grow". This will cause the bottom coil to wear against the head and/or prematurely fail. Machine the valve pocket using a Spring Seat Cutter if not enough clearance exists.
Valve Spring Retainer Fit
The valve spring retainer should fit the valve spring being used. A slightly snug fit is acceptable, however a fit that is too tight can overstress the top coil, and cause it to fail. A fit that is too loose can lead to spring "dancing."
Valve Spring Installed Height
The installed height of the valve spring is the distance between the valve pocket (or cup, or shims) and the outer edge of the spring retainer (which is the height of the valve spring) when the valve is closed. To check installed height, follow the following procedure:
Install the valve in the guide.
Install the retainer and valve locks.
Install all spring cups and/or valve spring shims (basically, everything except the valve spring).
Hold the valve closed by pulling the retainer up tightly against the valve locks.
Measure the distance between the outside edge of the valve spring retainer and the spring seat. A snap gage or a height micrometer should be used.
Check the distance against what is recommended on the camshaft specification card. An installed height of +/- 0.020" is acceptable.
If the installed height is not within 0.020", either machining of the valve pocket, or removal/installation of valve spring shims is necessary.
Repeat this procedure for the rest of the valves.
Valve Spring Retainer to Valve Seal Clearance
The distance between the innermost step on the valve spring retainer and the valve guide must be 0.090" larger than the maximum valve lift of the camshaft. Measure the distance between the top of the valve seal to the bottom of the valve spring retainer. After adding 0.090" to your measurement, it should still be larger than the maximum valve lift of the camshaft. If not, machining of the valve guide in necessary for adequate clearance.
Valve Spring Coil Clearance
Coil clearance is the distance between the valve spring coils when the valve is it maximum lift (fully open). A minimum of 0.060" must exist between the coils at maximum lift. Coil bind is when the valve spring is compressed fully-to the point that all of the coils are "stacked up" on top of each other. For high RPM applications, .100" is recommended . Coil bind is a catastrophic condition that will result in valve train failure. Disassemble each spring (if multiple springs are employed at each valve). Check all the springs (both inner, and outer springs) If there is not 0.060" - 0.100" minimum of clearance between the coils, the solutions are: the valve retainer, the valve locks, the valve, or the spring must be changed; the spring pocket must be machined. Keep in mind that these modifications will change the valve spring installed height
Valve Spring Retainer to Rocker Arm Clearance
When installing the rocker arms, check to see that the inside of the rocker arms clear the spring retainers. Many rocker arms have a "relief" to accommodate large valve spring retainers.
Valve Spring Run-In
Each set of Lunati valve springs are hand-selected to keep load variations below +/- 10% of the next. However, it is important to "run in" your new valve springs at low RPM using the following procedure:
Start the engine and run the engine between 1500 and 2000 RPM until the engine reaches operating temperature.
Shut off the engine and allow the springs to cool.
After initial run-in, most springs will lose a slight amount of pressure. Re-check and shim up the valve springs if necessary. After the springs are "run in", spring pressure should remain constant until the point of replacement.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#33
Posted 02 March 2012 - 01:55 AM
You can compare between a stock spring and after market by measuring the spring thickness x how many coils etc.
Btw, I've never heard of bleeding lifters in diesel but it's been awhile since I've been in the engine game. We used to clamp them in a vice between soft jaws and gradually apply pressure etc.
Cheers
#34
Posted 02 March 2012 - 10:26 AM
92 CC LANCER 1.8T CONVERSION... JUST FOR PARTS NOW
#35
Posted 02 March 2012 - 01:07 PM
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#36
Posted 02 March 2012 - 01:59 PM
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#37
Posted 02 March 2012 - 03:09 PM
#38
Posted 03 March 2012 - 12:02 AM
92 CC LANCER 1.8T CONVERSION... JUST FOR PARTS NOW
#39
Posted 05 March 2012 - 11:51 AM
Also look on the backside of the camgear for any wear too. If the bolt or the timing belt shows evidence of damage change them!
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users