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200,000km engine - should I replace anything?

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10 replies to this topic

#1
dokworm

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I've just bought an RVR engine that has about 200,000km on it to use for my project.

Any advice on what if anything I should replace on the engine before putting it in?
I'm going for reliability over performance really. What should I check for while the engine is out and easier to work on?

#2
OLDIE

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IF it were mine i would change all belts,rings,bearings and do a valve grind and new springs and decoke if it was just for reliability as a daily driver.

#3
dokworm

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That sounds like good advice. Thanks.

#4
BMGTZ

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there are a few videos on you tube that could help with doing an inspection on a 4G63 engine of that age. This one could help determine whether you will "get away with" just bearings.

If the crank has any oval wear...you will need to regrind. There is another one for bore wear .....at 200,000 there is likely to be some there and that would mean a re-bore.

My advice is not to disassemble the engine at all...just do the timing belts...tensioners...water pump and leave it. Unless of course you actually want to rebuild it

BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally

I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.

 

 


#5
wfh9023

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yes, i agree with bmgtz. mine is well over 200 000 km and i only carry out engine head overhaul and automatic gearbox fluid replacement apart from the belting and water pump change.

#6
jack be nimble

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If it has good compression wet and dry, plastigage no4 bigend. If that's ok as well, smash it in and use it.

Didn't happen to have a auto withit?
I would like that..
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.

#7
ted

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I second the water pump, cam and crank seals, timing belts, idlers and tensioners for sure!!!!

#8
vr401

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Water pump, gates belts, Genuine hydraulic tensioner, idlers, seals plus adjustable tomie cam gears, all done a while ago. Also , valve steam seals done too. Compression tested and within 3-4psi difference around 175psi Engine was never opend.
Lancer Evolution 7 GSR '01

#9
warbo

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Whilst you are at it, dont forget to replace 2 small oil seals. one is behind the balance shaft gear, and the other is behind the oil pump drive gear. If they have not been replaced before then they will be very hard and will probably leak oil. I made the mistake recently of replacing all the other shit but skimped on these two seals. Replaced them a few months later as got sick of the leaking oil in driveway. each seal was roughly about 15 bucks each and ex stock . Seals are very very easy to replace..............................................wish I had done it properly the first time!! cheers

#10
hyper gear

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Do nothing mate, all been done for you not long ago.

#11
dokworm

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Thanks mate, good to know.
I've put the rest of the car up for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested.

Cheers

-Pete


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