8 replies to this topic

[Davegsrjum]

Hi all, I have a gsr W5M33 that's done 75,000 K's. While fitting a viscous lock I checked the input and lay shaft end play! I temporarily bolted the sandwich plate back tight. The lay shaft had no end play at all but the input shaft has 0.24mm, a fair bit above the 0.05mm spec! Any thoughts on whether this would be acceptable to run with or should I open the box up and inspect the bearings? Thanks in advance for any insight into this!

Regards
Dave

[jack be nimble]

the bearings that wear first are the input and secondary shaft. i would replace these 4 bearings, and all the seals and inspect the synchroes while its apart.
new bearings should bring it back into spec with your shims.
parts will be expensive in australia...

[Davegsrjum]

Thanks for that! Will pull it down for a full inspection soon!

[Evo-00x]

Dave, how did you check the endplay? by the crushed solder method then torquing down the sandwich plate and end case?
OEM is 0.000" to 0.002" (0.05mm) and the 0.25mm you have is either going to need new bearings or a thicker shim.
If you've got it open, because theres a bit of variance, you're better off replacing the bearings and races on the input shaft as Jack mentioned.

I presume you know how to remove both bearings from the input shaft? You'll find the rear one easy enough, but the front bearing closest to the clutch spline will break when you try to remove it via the inner race. What I do is disassemble the bearing cage and grind 2 slots into the inner race (see pic), then put the bearing separators into the slots, then press the bitch out
Make sure you remove and replace the race from the bellhousing!!! different brands or part numbers will seat differently!!!

TMZ performance uses a little bit of preload on the input shaft = 0.004"-0.007" (0.10 - 0.17mm) and add a little more yet again if making more torque. See below.

Stock/Street Transmissions with less than 400TQ at the crank
Input Shaft --> 0.004" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Intermediate Shaft --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Center Differential --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Output Shaft --> 0.003" - 0.005" PRELOAD
Front Differential --> 0.002" - .0067" ENDPLAY

Street/Strip Transmissions with less than 600TQ at the crank
Input Shaft --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Intermediate Shaft --> 0.007" - 0.009" PRELOAD
Center Differential --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Output Shaft --> 0.003" - 0.005" PRELOAD
Front Differential --> 0.002" - .0067" ENDPLAY

All out RACE Transmissions that are Rebuilt/Inspected regularly with more than 600TQ at the crank
Input Shaft --> 0.007" PRELOAD
Intermediate Shaft --> 0.008" - 0.010" PRELOAD
Center Differential --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Output Shaft --> 0.004" - 0.006" PRELOAD
Front Differential --> 0.002" - .0067" ENDPLAY

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 

[Davegsrjum]

Thanks for the info buddy.
I used a dial indicator set up on the end of the shaft and pushed the shaft back and forth. I guess I should have said "at least .25mm end float"
I haven't opened the box completely yet!
Had a bit of a go at removing 5th gear syncro hub from the shaft but no luck getting it off the spline! I'll have to find or make a puller that will clear the lay shaft to get it off. 5th sub gear came off with some gentle prying!
Thanks for the heads up on removing the front bearing!

Cheers
Dave

[ChrisVR4]

How'd we go with 5th gear and the sychro assembly?
I'm trying to get it off on a w5m33, and its painful.

Can anyone explain the procedure/ best tool to use? or link a picture of something?
I made up a puller set to grab the synchro hub, under the teeth, but its really fidgety to get on properly and the arm tips keep bending!
My service material skips this bit for some reason. Shows the shaft lock-nuts being taken off, then the next step already has the gears and main casing off. Very frustrated.

[Davegsrjum]

Hey there, yeah what a painful thing to remove! I ended up modifying a cheap ass 2 leg puller that only just did the job! I ground down the ends to around 1 mm so it would fit between the syndrome ring and hub. Initially it just wanted to slip out so I put a piece of flat bar bent into a c shape around the puller legs to hold them in firm. It was only a scew type puller with a 16mm thread, it only just managed to move it! My next step if that failed was to machine up a split puller plate with a 1mm lip that would pull evenly around the hub! Would have had to make it fit around 5th selector rod and the plastic oil feed! Glad the first idea worked! You could try some heat on the hub to expand it slightly without putting much heat into the shaft! But don't heat it too much!

[ChrisVR4]

Cool. So It actually DOES come off haha.
My next idea was a collar with multiple teeth/arms, that slides over the hub, then twists to get under the teeth of the hub. But It just seemed too much of a task.

I'll try to get some 2 or 3 leg pullers to fit.

Cheers for the help

Chris

[Davegsrjum]

No worries, hope you win the battle!