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Timing belt replacement question
#1
Posted 16 December 2012 - 02:55 AM
How critical is it to torque the tensioner pulley to the correct setting using the special tool, or am i able to get it back as close as possible to it's original postion and then just measure the push rod position between tensioner arm and body?
Any help is much appreciated. Finding a 1/4" tension wrench which measures as low as 2Nm is impossible at local auto stores so i need to order one and get it here this week.
Also does any one know the thread diameter for the other special tool needed? Not willing to fork out $60 for one so i will just use some threaded rod. I'm assuming the pitch is 1.25 like every other bolt on the car.
#2
Posted 16 December 2012 - 08:25 AM
Tim
Dsmlink V3 + E85 11.37 @ 131.46 ... still more in her
Remember Kids... Google does not equal research!
Magnus
How much time do you spend in a parking lot with your performance car? If you do a lot of parking lot driving, and hang out in parking lots, chances are you are a ricer, go home and read import tuner. If you’re complaining about noise you should not be modifying your car. You should also consider no longer being a man, please hand in your genitals at the door.
#3
Posted 16 December 2012 - 10:43 AM
Works well.
AMG | http://www.4gtuner.c...mmc-galant-amg/
GVR4 | http://www.4gtuner.c...shi-galant-vr4/
Springy Motors | Autronic | Motec
#4
Posted 16 December 2012 - 11:43 AM
I just exposed all timing components and found the previous owner snapped a bolt on the balancer. Was going to change seals while i'm in there so crank pulley is coming off anyway. If i can't get the snapped bolt out with a pair of pliers i may have to drill it out. I was thinking i might need to unicoil it. I'm also changing the water pump and all bearings. I'm just in 2 minds on whether i should buy a new tensioner. It's not leaking any oil but i've really got no idea how old this engine is. I would say it's getting pretty close to 100 000 kms. Anyone have any idea on the life span of these tensioners?
#5
Posted 16 December 2012 - 12:58 PM
#6
Posted 16 December 2012 - 02:25 PM
mine is a 93t, but im sure it works on the 63 as well
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#7
Posted 20 December 2012 - 09:35 AM
I'm not too fussed if i only use 3 bolts to hold on the balancer but i'm just wondering if i use a unicoil whether it would cause any balance issues? Also is the sprocket material easy to drill and tap? There is not much material that can be taken out so i'm not too keen on doing this. My only alternative is to replace it but i'm wondering how closely matched these things are to the crank. I need the belt back on by the end of the weekend so if anybody in sydney has a vr4 crank sprocket they'd like to sell, let me know. Cheers.
#8
Posted 20 December 2012 - 11:19 AM
AMG | http://www.4gtuner.c...mmc-galant-amg/
GVR4 | http://www.4gtuner.c...shi-galant-vr4/
Springy Motors | Autronic | Motec
#9
Posted 23 December 2012 - 12:21 PM
the bolt that i use is the altenator adjuster bolt. the long one.
mine is a 93t, but im sure it works on the 63 as well
Tried this but the 63 alternator bolt is too long, won't fit.
I finished doing the timing belt, took the car for a drive and everything seems ok. But my paranoia is now getting the better of me and I'm fighting the urge to take the front cover off again to check it's all hunky dory.
The space between tensioner arm and body should be between 3.8-4.5mm. I just managed to squeeze a 4mm allen key in there, and i could slide the pin in and out with a little bit of friction.
Just one question. Is 3.8mm a tighter belt? Or is 4.5mm a tighter belt? If i dive back in there i'd just like to know which way i should go because i suspect the belt is too tight for my liking.
#10
Posted 05 January 2013 - 02:34 PM
Tried this but the 63 alternator bolt is too long, won't fit.
I finished doing the timing belt, took the car for a drive and everything seems ok. But my paranoia is now getting the better of me and I'm fighting the urge to take the front cover off again to check it's all hunky dory.
The space between tensioner arm and body should be between 3.8-4.5mm. I just managed to squeeze a 4mm allen key in there, and i could slide the pin in and out with a little bit of friction.
Just one question. Is 3.8mm a tighter belt? Or is 4.5mm a tighter belt? If i dive back in there i'd just like to know which way i should go because i suspect the belt is too tight for my liking.
I dont think the belt tension will change 'significantly' with the change in the hydro-tensioner plunger stick-out.
The idea of the hydraulic tensioner is to keep a specified tension on the belt over its life span.
I believe the 3.8-4.5mm spec is just to ensure there is enough travel-room left in the unit, to take up the belt stretch.
But 3.8mm would be the tighter side.
- Siret likes this
#11
Posted 09 January 2013 - 02:23 PM
Does anyone know if this crank sprocket would be suitable for a vr4?
http://www.ebay.com....=item2c5c1bdca6
Edited by Siret, 09 January 2013 - 02:23 PM.
#12
Posted 09 January 2013 - 07:47 PM
Do you have balance shafts removed?
If so, the oil pump alignment doesn't matter..
If you still have it, then it does matter..
AMG | http://www.4gtuner.c...mmc-galant-amg/
GVR4 | http://www.4gtuner.c...shi-galant-vr4/
Springy Motors | Autronic | Motec
#13
Posted 20 January 2013 - 01:17 PM
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