30 replies to this topic

[TBOWGN]

Hey guys, just started taking out my side indicators next to the headlights and then I remembered its a prick to get them out. Apart from taking off the whole front bar can someone remind me what's the easiest way to change the headlight globes on my hypergear?

Cheers, Lars

[bazeng]

You can't just pull the rear cover and change the globe?

I'm hoping Mitsubishi engineers didn't make it so the front bar had to come off...

Usually the head light has a rear plastic cover with tabs, pull the cover off and it well expose the globe. You might have to un plug the connector from the globe first. Then the h4 give is clipped in to the back if the head light.

Most cars are like the above anyway.

Let me know if the rvr is different.

[jack be nimble]

maybe need to remove the battery on one side, but usually the left one is easy as baz says

[TBOWGN]

Battery is actually in the boot. I can get 2 clips off on each of the top rack headlights, but the other 2 underneath are unreachable as the front bar is still on. What a prick!!

[vuonguz]

headlight removal needs front bar off
globes is straight forward pull rubber at back undo clip

[TBOWGN]

Shame. Thanks boys

[evo-gsr]

globes is straight forward pull rubber at back undo clip

did you try what vuonguz (and baz) have suggested?

[TBOWGN]

Already tried, I'll another look before it take it off though. Cheers

[Super Top]

What do you need to know?

In the starting post you mention the side indicators next to the headlight (I think you mean the cornering light/parking light with that) and the headlight globe itself?

The headlight globe itself should be pretty straight forward. Like previously said.

The cornering light. Is tightened by a screw from the inside of the engine bay if I follow ASA correct.

[TBOWGN]

Yeah I realise that, i can get the side lights off and undo the side bolts, but unless you get rid of the front bar you can't undo the other front faced bolts to take the whole head light out.

[Super Top]

Ah yeah, you need the headlight unit to be removed completely. If I understand correct.

I now do understand what you mean.
I guess thats the downside of the HSG front bar. No separate grille like the SG and SSG where the inner headlight bolt are behind.

I haven't had it apart yet myself. Because I've yet got to replace my headlight units to be converted to RHD.
Therefore I can't say if there's a way to get to the bolts in an easy way. I have stored my RVR somewhere else I can't have a quick peak of how much room there is.
Maybe someone who drives one daily can say. Since we now know exactly what you mean.

Edited by Super Top, 21 January 2013 - 12:41 AM.

[TBOWGN]

All good, I'll just do it the hard way... Or the only way

[4th]

QN: where is the low beam bulb?? is it a seperate bulb or a dual filament bulb shared with 'parkers'?

high beam engages fine (housing under the bonnet)

parkers seem dull, low beam seems M.I.A (housing in the mudguard on the corner)

or is low beam usually wired into the lower light in the lower vents of the front bar?


am guessing bulb as if it were fuse id have no light at all

[Super Top]

Low beam shares the bulb with high beam. It's an dual filament H4 bulb.
Park light and cornering light is in the most outside units next to the headlights. They have an 21/5 Watt dual filament light bulb. BA15D fitment.
In the lower vents of the front bar. There's the Indicators. 21 watt light bulb. And the optional fog lights which is probably H1 or H3 light bulb.



There are several possibilities.
- Both low-beam filaments in the H4 bulbs are broken.
- Both fuses of the low-beam lights are broken.
- Your switch on the steering column is malfunctioning.
- A combination of the first two is also possible. 1 fuse and 1 bulb.

In the most cases it's just the bulbs that need to be replaced.
If they were both changed at the same time. They have been on an equal time.
Due to the limited lifetime of a light bulb. They will also quit working almost at the same time.

[4th]

Low beam shares the bulb with high beam. It's an dual filament H4 bulb.
Park light and cornering light is in the most outside units next to the headlights. They have an 21/5 Watt dual filament light bulb. BA15D fitment.
In the lower vents of the front bar. There's the Indicators. 21 watt light bulb. And the optional fog lights which is probably H1 or H3 light bulb.



There are several possibilities.
- Both low-beam filaments in the H4 bulbs are broken.
- Both fuses of the low-beam lights are broken.
- Your switch on the steering column is malfunctioning.
- A combination of the first two is also possible. 1 fuse and 1 bulb.

In the most cases it's just the bulbs that need to be replaced.
If they were both changed at the same time. They have been on an equal time.
Due to the limited lifetime of a light bulb. They will also quit working almost at the same time.

@Super Top thank you for your prompt & detailed response,

am yet to attack the car to see what needs to be done, hopefully not like TBOWGN pain & remove the bar

top: clear lenses in front bar vents are working indicators, just a cosmetic difference i guess
bottom left: low beam missing in main headlight, driving light in corner guard (can't remember if indicator was wired through them)
bottom right: high beam engages in main headlight

when looking at replacement bulbs

QN: what is "UV - CUT" is it that standard bulbs cause polycarbonate plastic to discolour? so non UV types are the best to choose if the main headlight casing is plastic not glass?

QN: are NARVA the bulbs that are 'ADR compliant' as the ones from CALIBRE etc say they are blue or does the 'E marked' encompass adr compliance?

QN: is the 50% or 100% extra light volume a load of marketing bull**** on standard bulbs unless they are HIDs

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[Super Top]

For replacing the light-bulbs you won't have to remove the front bar.

That looks great! Guess you're one of the lucky few to have those clear/smoked indicator lenses.

Pull out the current H4 light-bulbs. And check the filaments.
The filament for low beam is the one with the shield.

Check if the filament is broken or looks damaged/worn out. If it does replace it.
If the filaments look like new. Take a look at your fusebox for the 2 low beam fuses. And see if those need replacing.

My RVR HSGR has dual filament bulbs in the driving light in the corner guard. The 5 watt filament is on whenever the lights are on. The 21 watt filament of the cornering light goes on when I turn on my indicator at the side I indicate to. And turns off when I turn my indicator off. It doesn't blink.
They told me it was standard on the RVR HSGR.

I can't give you answers to all your questions. Because I don't live in Australia.

UV-Cut means the glass of the bulb has a UV filter build in. Meaning less deterioration of your glass, reflector etc. Or sun UV light can't get into the bulb to protect the filament. Haven't found that one out yet.
Most of the bulbs these days have UV filter in it.

50 to 100% extra light bulbs. I haven't tried them yet. But what I do know. Is take light bulbs of a recommended brand. Not some brand-less bits you can buy at the grocery store.
With those brandless lights the positioning of the filament is less exact. Therefore the light image on the road is also off. Meaning less usable light on the road and blinding oncoming traffic.

[jack be nimble]

Just buy any crap h4 bulbs, don't stress it.
Get the pretty blue one if you must, they are marginally better

Put some hid in later on when you work out what you want and how to go about it.
Ie, you want 35w 4300k bixenons.

[4th]

is the pictured bolt/screw at the top, the one that detaches the corner indicator/parker housing from the side panel?

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Edited by 4th, 28 February 2013 - 08:00 AM.

[jack be nimble]

The bolt that is pointing down? No, that's the headlights aiming bolt.

[xjokux]

can someone shine some light on which bolt to remove to change the side parker light bulbs?

 

I've got a bullbar on the front as well.