521 replies to this topic

[Geo&Kez]

WA suspension got the job getting the corners all pointing the same way. Specs are below. No idea how all that will go in anger, the shop wanted figures from me so I consulted with the Brian's trust and chucked a few numbers their way. Fairly conservative but its a baseline to start from. Find out Thursday week I guess.

 

 

[mymidlifecrisis]

Hey Jamo.

 

Running FP mani, Autobahn 888 dump and T05 big. There are no mounting holes for any type of shield. I was waiting to see where that group buy was headed a while back but seems to have gone quiet. I think the cheapest short term solution is one of those soft cover style ones (link) and then take the time to make up a fully fab'd one. I can just use some wrap around the dump.

 

https://www.rtmracin...productid=18519

 

Good news on the tie rod ends, was a bit worried as it changed the front geometry a bit more than I had anticipated. 

Just fabbed this up. Will run in conjunction with exhaust wrap as well. I ll be tigging the seams up to make it more rigid etc. Easy enough for me to tig a S/S tab onto your dump pipe with nut welded onto back to secure heatshield if you want. Let me know.

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 

[Geo&Kez]

Good timing mate! I just spent yesterday evening making up something very similar. I had a whole lot of heat-shielding from a fiesta which I chopped and shaped to go with the manifold sock I bought. I used a mounting point on the exhaust housing of the turbo, and the other I am deciding where to place it. At this point I have a bracket coming of the bottom of the power steering pump which I made up to hold the dipstick, so thinking about tacking a tab onto that.

 

What is the material your using in the photo's? The stuff i'm working with is ford factory shit, it has two layers of tin sandwiching what looks to be some sort of silica. pita to work with but shields heat good. Will post some photos of it finished tonight.

 

Thanks for the offer.

[Geo&Kez]

Some pictures of my much less professional job. The Ebay silica manifold blanket thing is really good though, got from Turbo performance products in US ~$150 landed. Massive difference to under bonnet temps. And my little creation is keeping lots of heat away from the alt and oil filter.

 

   

[EIII]

Nice George - Always dropping in to see how she's going.. IMO be a bit more agressive with your camber  (-3.5) and get as much caster as you can..... Get that rear camber dialed in also.

 

Good luck @ McRae.

[Geo&Kez]

G'day Ben. Been wishing I went with a boat too lately! been a bit of a slog.

Will deffinately make more changes, really don't know much about setting them up, sort of one of those blokes that just makes the best of what I've got. Drop in here after the McRae and I'll do my best to explain how the car is working, then maybe pick your brain on where to head with the numbers.

Hope your enjoying that boat!

Cheers mate

[Geo&Kez]

Okies, been doing some stuff.

 

Went and did a sprintkhana on the Monday public holiday at the RAC centre, without a front swaybar. It was interesting, but lets just say that work has started straight away on finding a better solution to mounting the gsr swaybar on the e3 lca's. Chopped the crap out of the fronts, corner speeds were woeful and taught me that my next personal goal is to learn something about setting up suspension and weight transfer dynamics. We did manage to salvage a top ten finish which is a better start to this year than last year. So last night I set about chopping the tabs off the old gsr lca's and working out a way of mounting them on the e3 arms. If you see a problem in the pictures below, shout out today because I'll probably tack them on tonight!!

 

 

 

Another problem which has been nagging at me and came to ahead on Monday is overheating. At 10 tenths the car gets real hot, like hot up to the H on the factory gauge. It's a gradual climb up, but after 7 km of full tilt, she's solidly hot. Back in the pit and I'll let it idle for 6-7 mins and it's back down to thermostat temps. Looking into the radiator from the front, it's becoming fairly obvious what the problem is. I could see about 1/5th of the radiator core, the rest was hidden behind oil coolers and big fuckoff intercoolers. Before I go spend money on a new rad, I have tried to open the core up a bit by relocating the oil cooler and slightly dropping the I/C. Will start running water wetter too and see if it makes a difference.

 

[jack be nimble]

Make a plate from bottom of bar to bottom of radiator panel. Stop the air running away under the car

[evo-gsr]

If you dont use aircon...piss the condenser off too...couldnt tell in that pic if its still there. You can also buy or make a top panel / air diversion plate that goes on top of the grille and radiator to force more air through radiator.

[evo-gsr]

Also swap thermostat for one that opens earlier too.

[jack be nimble]

But the bonnet isnt that bad a diverter plate. There is a 12" gap underneath.
Dunno if you have the underbonnet guards in the ducts, but these may make a difference too.

[evo-gsr]

But with the vents Jack all that air goes straight out through them. Which is why you use the diversion panel to channel the air through the radiator instead.

[jack be nimble]

Furry muff
I was going to say jack up the back of the bonnet too

[OLDIE]

Furry muff
I was going to say jack up the back of the bonnet too

 

From what I have read that is a hi pressure area and won't help and IF there is a hi pressure oil leak it will end up all over the screen

[Geo&Kez]

Alright, so what I'm doing is making sure that any air coming through the front of the car is made to go through the radiator core, and not get squeezed out, under, around or anywhere but through the rad core? There is no A/C or anything related left on the car Jamo, and Jack the factory black plastic shit all over the front of the car is long gone except if it's covering up something dodgy. And your now telling me that black plastic shit had a purpose and should have been left alone? Gezz, next you'll be telling me that the lower timing belt cover should be installed because it does stuff.

 

Agree with Oldie, jacked the bonnet on the XR5 to aid cooling, it did jack shit.

[Geo&Kez]

With regards to my learning car setup;

 

Some good information on this website, right up till you have to pay money.

 

http://www.racing-ca...om.au/index.htm

 

And I bought this book from pitstop

 

http://www.pitstop.n...reet-and-track/

 

Every little bit helps.......

[jack be nimble]

From what I have read that is a hi pressure area and won't help and IF there is a hi pressure oil leak it will end up all over the screen

Im not a fan either.

My black plastic started at the rad support and went back, not forward.
Do we think that corrugated plastic (signboard stuff) would handle the ducting task?

[OLDIE]

On my Starion I have boxed in the spoiler opening and have a diversion panel to get as much of the incoming airflow as possible to go thru the IC and radiator.

[Geo&Kez]

Well, swaybar is back on and finally working well. I welded the GSR brackets onto the E3 arms and everything feels happy, most importantly, nothing snapped off. The front camber is out to about 3.2 degrees now and the handling of the car is the best it's been. I still think the springs are too soft, with the dampers on the front screwed right up the body roll is catching up and hurting us on the mid and exit of corners, although overall the car feels quite neutral just a fraction loose in the rear. 

 

 

We competed in the 3rd round of the McRae rallysprint series, and for the first time in a while we were able to put in a few consistent runs and actually get some good data back from the car. And that's where the good news stops, we have a long list of things to try and sort out in the engine department. This "trying to do it all yourself" shit is costing lots of time and horsepower. We managed a top 20 finish out of 50 cars, and considering the company we keep at these events, we are pretty happy with that. We were also awarded the longest exhaust flame award, which started out funny but it is something I really should fix up. The AFR data shows we are probably losing some power by being so rich. On the graphs I attached, you can see under hard deceleration the AFR drops to <8.5 when the car is hot >110 so there is something going on in the coolant temp correction tables that need sorting out and I assume that from the base map (2.0 4g63t with 510cc injectors) the ratio's on the current 1000cc injectors are not helping. I might just enable decel fuel cut for the time being until I go get more dyno time. The AFR at WOT is also too rich getting down to the low 10's, mid 11's would give us back some power. It's just messy to, the base fuel map needs some fine tuning just about everywhere.

 

The turbo size was always going to be an issue on this motor, and it is really staring to show. I tried to up the boost from 16.5 which we have been running, to 21.5, but I think the poor little '05 is all puffed out by about 5000rpm and is barely able to pump 18-19 after that. The wastegate just keeps closing and the boost does nothing, and the turbo just becomes a massive exhaust restriction. Unfortunately we have to live with it until we can afford something bigger. Least it will give me time to research our best upgrade option.

 

 braking area ignadv.pdf   91.33KB   73 downloads   braking area injduty.pdf   91.05KB   72 downloads   braking area.pdf   85.51KB   82 downloads

[DOUGMO]

But with the vents Jack all that air goes straight out through them. Which is why you use the diversion panel to channel the air through the radiator instead.

 
correct, side top and bottom diversion plates are a must for a competition car, if you need a fan to keep it cool on track you need to do some more ducting. Air in through the core and out the bonnet is the key
 

From what I have read that is a hi pressure area and won't help and IF there is a hi pressure oil leak it will end up all over the screen

also correct, raising the back of bonnet will actually make the car run hotter at speed.

as you also suggested George run water wetter without coolant, glycol increases your water temp