521 replies to this topic

[DOUGMO]

woah! I just looked at your logs, you really need to address the cooling side of things, a sustained 100+ water temp is not ideal.
what are you oil temps like?

[Geo&Kez]

Yeah, not ideal is a good way to put it George. Oil is up there too. I had tried moving some stuff around on the front of the car to expose more radiator core but it has been of no avail. From the logs it just appears the radiator is not able to keep up once the boot is into it. The logs from recce show nothing over 90 at about 50% boot, but once you get stuck in the temp just creeps up the whole time, particularly at sustained WOT and load. (That section of logs posted is of a run out of a long hair pin and down a 800m straight braking hard into a flip flop.)

 

It is just a stock GSR radiator and i'm still running a thermostat so I really shouldn't be surprised. I'm just a typical cheap bastard that expects not to have to spend money on proper equipment. The only real options I see are to swap out to a 52mm core alloy job, delete the thermostat and run the water wetter. If that doesn't keep the temps down to more acceptable levels, I'm going to have to look at other causes. It's definitely not from running lean!!

 

What sort of temps do you typically see from yours on the track George?

[jack be nimble]

I would duct the radiator first.
And leave in the thermostat as it slows the water through the engine allowing the water to flow all through the engine. If you pull it out the engine will have hot spots

[evo-gsr]

I wouldnt be deleting thermostat either. 

[Geo&Kez]

I agree with leaving the thermo in Jack, it's why it's still there, they do have a job to do and that's why they get put in the first place. Removing them it more like a desperation move to cover the real issue. 

 

Ducting is an easy step that should have been done already. Bit lazy on my behalf. For the sake of a couple of hundred bucks, a new radiator is the least the old girl deserves for putting up with my laziness.

[DOUGMO]

I run a thermostat still and even on a 35+c day (on 27-28psi) my water temp is 74c, after about 7-8 mins my oil temp is up around 110c though but water is always stable(I only have 2 x 35mm holes letting air in for the oil cooler though.

the best cooling mod I did (after ducting - which is just coreflute mind you) was opening the bonnet vents up by removing the alloy plates.

also adding a cover under the engine and radiator helps cooling (and aero)

[evo-gsr]

Maybe get a thermostat that opens earlier.....it may help keep temps down.

As well as ducting as much air through radiator as possible.

[jack be nimble]

I asked before if coreflute would be strong enough. Good to hear that it is.

[Geo&Kez]

Found a video that sort of explains why we are sort of happy being in the top 20. This thing make us feel like we're just mucking around in the big boy's play ground.

 

 

[DOUGMO]

I asked before if coreflute would be strong enough. Good to hear that it is.

yep it is, I run 6mm stuff though which is very firm, easy to use and works fine

[jack be nimble]

Just sikaflex it in place? I cut out a template for the front bar to the bottom of radiator as I was going to redo it in ali. Might as well bang it in.

[DOUGMO]

I have cable ties through the radiator core lol

[evo-gsr]

Ghetto as ^ but still so affective. 

[DOUGMO]

mines no show car

[evo-gsr]

I know..its all about the go ! 

[DOUGMO]

heres a pic that may give you a small idea how I did the coreflute George, there is also a bit I can put on the top if need be





getting the air in also means get air out. I also removed the heat shields under the vents and opend the vents up a bit too with a die grinder (sorry if I went over this before)




or if you get really crazy the best mod I did was the side vents (but it will take time to come to terms with cutting the bonnet lol)

Edited by DOUGMO, 16 February 2014 - 08:33 AM.

[jack be nimble]

With the oil cooler on the left there, it really makes that left bonnet duct a must.
Function over form. Beautiful.

[Geo&Kez]

Well, no joy.

 

Although we had a good outing last night, we still have temperature issues. My newly calibrated sensor says that we hit a peak coolant temp of 114*c, this again occurring at the end of a sustained high wot/load period. As described before, the rad is fully ducted now, running redline water wetter, I've put some timing in up top (running 11.5* at >6000rpm / 21psi) and took some fuel out (10.5's wot full load). One strange thing is that after the end of the stage, we do a few cool down cycles out of the car park, temps get down to about 95*, pull up with the car idling and the top rad hose has very little pressure in it. It's to the point where I can actually take the cap off without getting squirted at. I thought that to be strange.

 

Really at a loss to understand what's happening. The Brians trust dropped in to have a look last night and was kind enough to lend me a pwr ally rad to try, so will put that in before the next event in two weeks. We threw some other ideas around like the possibility of water pump cavitation, ways of getting rid of under bonnet heat and some sprayers of some sort.

 

All that aside, it was a good night, found some more legs up the top end with the ignition and fuel changes, and managed a 17th outright. Found some nuts in a few braking areas and took 3 seconds off on my last run. If I had off had those nuts on the other three runs, we are right in the mix for between a 12th and 14th finish. Which compared to the dollars invested, is pretty good. I'll get some video all logs up after I get some sleep.

[Geo&Kez]

Some pictures thanks to D&D photography

 

 

 

And some results

 

https://docs.google....3Nzg4MTFiZTgxZg

Edited by Geo&Kez, 21 February 2014 - 04:48 AM.

[DOUGMO]

what pressure and type of rad cap do you run George?